Seeing Red in Delhi

Delhi-India-37

During my third year of university I signed up for a course titled Islamic Art and Architecture for one of my electives. I was travelling in Argentina at the time my enrolment window opened, and I remember sitting in a hostel in Cordoba battling a slow internet connection while I tried to figure out what classes still had seats remaining.

There were a few different courses I was considering and not being the most assertive decision maker, I turned to my friend Rebecca and asked her which one she thought I should go for. Being the art major and talented visual artist that she is, she suggested the art course.

I signed up.

That course ended up being one of my favourites of the year. It sparked my slight obsession with Central Asia (Uzbekistan is still a dream destination of mine!) and it also taught me to decipher the subtle meaning behind buildings which is often hidden in plain sight.

One period that we covered extensively in that course was that of the Mughals, an empire that ruled the Indian subcontinent from the early 16th century to the early 18th century and left a wealth of structures scattered across the land. Coming to Delhi, those exquisite structures that I had once marvelled at on the pages of my textbook finally came to life.

Red Fort

My first stop in Delhi was the Red Fort. We purposely booked a hotel within walking distance and on our first morning there Sam, his parents and I were out the door and on our way soon after sun up.

The Red Fort was the main residence of the Mughals for almost 200 years and though it may be called a fort, this place is more like a walled city. After the Mughals moved their capital from Agra to Delhi, this became their primary residence and inside you can find a bazar, a mosque, various courts and pavilions, as well as imposing red sandstone gates that will make you feel tiny.

The whole place is beautiful, but the one structure that took my breath away was the Lahori Gate, named so because it faces towards Lahore, Pakistan. The gate is a giant mass of red sandstone, and the arch carries your eyes all the way up until you reach a roof pavilion, which I sadly couldn’t fit into one picture. Imagine setting foot through those gates several centuries back and finding yourself in the heart of a bustling bazaar!

Visiting the Red Fort in Delhi, India

Mughal architecture in the Red Fort

Mughal architecture in Delhi

Touring the Red Fort in Delhi

Humayun’s Tomb

Our second day in Delhi was reserved for the place I had been most looking forward to: Humayun’s Tomb – a name that had been uttered in class at least a thousand times.

The tomb was commissioned by Humayun’s first wife, Empress Bega Begum, who deeply mourned his passing and consequently dedicated her life to building the most beautiful mausoleum to keep his memory alive. I think she did a pretty good job because for me, this was the most beautiful building I saw in Delhi. When the sunlight hits the red sandstone it just glows, and then once you get up close and see all the intricate details on the facade, you can appreciate its beauty all over again.

Humayun’s Tomb was the first garden tomb of its kind in India and it also provided the inspiration for the Taj Mahal which would be built many decades later, so if you’re heading to Agra this is a nice little sneak peek at what’s to come!

Humayun's Tomb combined Indian and Persian architecture.

Red sandstone and white marble in Humayun's Tomb, Delhi.

Another site on the grounds of Humayun's Tomb

Touring the grounds of Humayun's Tomb

Jama Masjid

Lastly, on our third and final morning in Delhi, we went to Jama Masjid which is the largest mosque in India. We had attempted a visit the previous day, but we arrived just as they were closing for noon prayers, so we only got a quick glimpse of the exterior. Not this time!

After leaving our shoes at the door, we climbed the southern minaret for views of Old Delhi. While I’m not sure I would repeat the experience (it is a very narrow staircase with people competing to go up and down, plus once you reach the top there’s only a tiny platform to stand on – hello vertigo!), I did enjoy wandering the rest of the grounds.

Inside the prayer hall you’ll find white marble floors with black inlays that outline individual places for each prayer mat, the walls are decorated with sweeping arabesques, and you have an enormous crystal chandelier in the centre of the hall.

Visiting Jama Masji, the largest mosque in India.

Visiting Jama Masjid in Delhi, India.

Interior of the prayer hall of Jama Masjid.

That was my grand introduction to Delhi: three days, three Mughal structures, and enough sandstone to leave me seeing red in the city.

As I write this I’m sitting in a homestay in Agra where the rooms are full of books and artifacts from around the world and you wouldn’t believe what I spotted. On a wooden coffee table with carved elephant figures lay the very same 600+ page title, Islam: Art and Architecture, which first introduced me to these buildings. I had to pick it up, flip through the pages, and laugh at the serendipity of it all.

Have you been to Delhi?

10 Comments

  • Delhi looks beautiful though! And I really love their architecture!

    -Kiara
    http://www.viaisabelle.com

    • Audrey Bergner says:

      There are some real gems scattered across the city. There were so many other temples and tombs that I wanted to visit, but I ran out of time!

  • Leah MacVie says:

    These pictures are gorgeous! I had never heard of Humayun’s Tomb. I would probably visit this site before the Taj Mahal after seeing these photos. What strikes me (which you probably covered in your art history class) is the scallops in the architecture. They are really unique. Other architects are praised around the world for their clean lines or large domes. The scallops are such a rare example of this kind of attention to detail. Just beautiful!

    • Audrey Bergner says:

      I hope you get to visit, Leah! It’s amazing to see the amount of detail that went into these buildings, especially once you get up close.

  • veena says:

    Lovely photos! While I openly admit that Delhi is not my favorite city in India, it is certainly picturesque. Thank you for capturing its beauty and for reminding me of the good memories I have of the city. I hope you enjoy the rest of your travels in India! 🙂

    • Audrey Bergner says:

      Thanks Veena! I ended up enjoying Delhi a lot more than I thought I would. Some parts were overwhelming – especially around Old Delhi – but it was these little pockets of tranquility that made all the difference.

  • Wow, as an art lover and history addicted I am sure I would love these sights. I think Islamic architecture deserves more attention: it is really amazing.
    Stefania – the Italian Backpacker recently posted..Places not to miss in MaltaMy Profile

    • Audrey Bergner says:

      Agreed! You could turn a trip to India into an architecture themed tour. There are so many amazing structures scattered across the country.

  • Frey says:

    It looks amazing and I love the sound of the class you took – a good way to have a taste of travel while studying! Do you still plan to make a video about earning money as a digital nomad? You mentioned it in January and I’ve been on the edge of my seat ever since! Thanks for all the great videos and blog posts – I am saving up all your tips as I save up for my trip : ) Hope you have a great time in India. Try Idli Samba while you are there if you can. (It’s a dish from South India and it’s amazing!)

    • Audrey Bergner says:

      Hi Frey! Yes, we’re planning to make that video now that we’re back in Canada for a bit. We’re currently editing Nepal and India, so that one’s next on the list. In the meantime I’ll say that when I first started out, I was doing a lot of freelance writing for various travel websites, but these days I’ve been doing more to monetize my blog and YouTube.

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