Banteay Srei: Visiting Pink Sandstone Temple of Angkor, Cambodia

“Are we the first ones here?” I excitedly asked the guards checking tickets at the temple entrance.

“No,” he looked at me seriously, “you are second. We were first,” and with that he burst into jolly laughter with his fellow guards.

I half wasn’t expecting our tuk-tuk driver to show up at 5 in the morning after agreeing on the time the previous day, but he was there right on time as we rolled down the steps with droopy eyes.

We set off towards the temples with no street lamps to point the way, just streams of light from the odd motorcycle, but for the most part it was just us on a tuk-tuk surrounded by darkness; first riding through thick forests and then through misty fields where a strange haze hung over the land.

Banteay Srei was the furthest temple I visited during my stay in Siem Reap. Located 32 kilometres away from the city, the journey translated into a lengthy one hour ride via bouncy tuk-tuk, but it was definitely worth it as this turned out to be one of the most memorable temples of my three day temple hopping adventure across the land.

What makes this Hindu temple stand out among the rest is that it was constructed using mostly red sandstone, and because this stone lends itself very well to carving, Banteay Srei was embellished with far more detailed carvings and sculptures than say Angkor Wat or Bayon.

Every inch of the doorways and walls are adorned with leaf motifs and female deities known as devatas.

Another interesting little fact about Banteay Srei is that this temple was not commissioned by a king, rather by a Brahman who was a tutor to the royal family, which goes to show just how much power he held.

While many of the temples of Angkor can begin to blend together after you’ve spent three days going from one set of ruins to the next, this is one of the temples that I remember most vividly; in part because of its truly impressive architecture, but also because I had the whole place to myself which is very rare when you are visiting a popular Angkorian temple.

There are countless temples to visit when you come to Siem Reap, but if you are looking for something that’s a little more unique, then I highly recommend Banteay Srei – and who knows, if you rise early enough, you may just have it to yourself like I did.

Planning Your Banteay Srei Adventure: Practical Tips, Details & Detours

I walked away from Banteay Srei with red-sandstone dust on my sandals. And with certainty that every crack of dawn tuk-tuk is worth the bleary eyes. Below is the cheat-sheet to make the most of your visit.

🌄 Why Visit Banteay Srei? What Sets It Apart

Banteay Srei—sometimes called “the Jewel of Khmer Art”—stands out from other Angkorian temples in almost every way:

• Size and Scale: It’s much smaller than giants like Angkor Wat or Bayon, which means every detail is intimate, and you can linger in quiet corners.
• Color and Light: The pink-red sandstone literally glows at sunrise and sunset, shifting from soft rose to deep gold as the sun climbs.
• Intricate Carvings: Nowhere else in Angkor can you see such deep, elaborate reliefs—floral patterns, mythological creatures, and rows of devatas (goddesses). Look closely for scenes from Hindu epics like the Ramayana and Mahabharata.
• Sense of Solitude: Arriving early, as you did, gives you a rare, contemplative atmosphere that’s hard to find at the main temples.

Choosing the Perfect Timeslot

Most travellers aim for Banteay Srei after finishing the Grand Circuit, which means a late-morning surge of tour buses pulling in around 10 a.m. Do the opposite:

• Sunrise (05:30-07:30). The temple faces east; the first rays skim across the lintels and ignite the sandstone into molten rose-gold. You’ll also hear the surrounding sugar-palm groves wake up—geckos clicking, palm leaves creaking.
• Golden hour (15:30-17:00). Soft side-lighting reveals carvings you missed in the morning, and the heat will have chased most day-trippers back to Siem Reap.

Photography note: Bring a small reflector or use a white scarf to bounce light into deep relief carvings; tripods are technically allowed but discouraged during busy slots.

🚕 How to Get There & What to Expect

Getting There:

• Banteay Srei is about 32km north of Siem Reap—roughly an hour by tuk-tuk or car. Expect a bumpy, scenic ride past rice paddies, water buffalo, and villages.
• Most drivers are happy to negotiate a half-day or full-day rate, especially if you combine Banteay Srei with other attractions like the Cambodia Landmine Museum, Kbal Spean (“the river of a thousand lingas”), or Banteay Samre temple.

Best Time to Visit:

• Early morning is magical—soft light for photography, cool air, and fewer crowds.
• Late afternoon can be equally stunning as the setting sun lights up the stone.

Entrance Fee:

• Banteay Srei is included in the Angkor Pass. Bring your ticket for checks at the entrance.

Plotting the Route: Three Easy Ways to Get There

Whichever you pick, ask the driver to take the Banteay Samré backroad instead of Highway 67. It’s slower, but you’ll weave through stilt villages, rice paddies and roadside stalls selling palm-sugar candy in bamboo tubes—Cambodian energy bars for temple warriors.

Understanding the Symbolism (So the Myths Come Alive)

Banteay Srei translates to “Citadel of Women,” but experts now argue the name references the devatas—graceful female guardians—adorning every pilaster. Keep an eye out for:

1. Kala Heads: Wide-mouthed monsters devouring garlands; they represent time eating all things.
2. Narasimha Panel (East Gopura): Vishnu’s lion-man avatar ripping demon Hiranyakashipu apart—visual storytelling at its fiercest.
3. The Rain of Indra: Elephants with flapping wings, trunks spewing torrents; a hopeful prayer for monsoon blessing.

Armed with these stories, you’ll linger longer at each doorway instead of speed-snapping.

Pairing Temples for a Themed Day Out

Rather than racing back to Angkor Thom, build a “Beyond the Big Circuit” itinerary:

1. Banteay Srei sunrise
2. Phnom Kulen Waterfall & River of a Thousand Lingas – thirty minutes further north; picnic beside sandstone riverbeds etched with Shiva symbols.
3. Landmine Museum – on the return drive; sobering but essential context about Cambodia’s recent past.
4. Banteay Samré at dusk – often empty, its interior courtyard glows peach under fading light.

This loop fits easily within the standard one-day Angkor pass.

For Archaeology Buffs: Quick Timeline Cheat-Sheet

Understanding this arc adds weight to each step you take across those rose-tinted flagstones.

📚 History, Myths & Cultural Context

Banteay Srei was built in the late 10th century (completed in 967 AD) and dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva. It’s unique for being commissioned by a powerful court scholar, not a king. The temple’s name translates to “Citadel of the Women,” a nod to the feminine beauty of its carvings or perhaps the abundance of female deities.

Local legend claims that only the delicate hands of women could have created such fine work—hence the nickname “the Lady Temple.” Whether fact or myth, the craftsmanship is genuinely awe-inspiring.

The stories carved in the lintels and pediments reveal both religious devotion and creative imagination. Pause to spot scenes like:

• Ravana shaking Mount Kailash
• Indra riding his three-headed elephant
• Kama firing a love arrow at Shiva

🥾 What to Bring: A Traveler’s Packing List

Tip: Visit restrooms before entering the site—facilities are basic and located outside the main entrance.

📷 How to Photograph Banteay Srei

• Go Wide, Then Zoom In: Start with broad shots of the temple bathed in pink light, then get close-ups of carvings—try to capture the three-dimensional depth.
• Side Lighting: Early or late sun will highlight textures and shadows; avoid the harsh midday glare.
• Details Matter: Frame a single devata, a floral motif, or an epic battle scene. Even the worn steps have stories.
• People-Free Photos: Arriving early or waiting for small lulls lets you snap the temple in serene solitude.

🗺️ Make It a Day: What Else to See Nearby

Many travelers pair Banteay Srei with other northern Angkor sites for a full day of exploring:

• Cambodia Landmine Museum: Just 8km away, it’s both sobering and inspiring—a chance to understand the country’s recent history and ongoing challenges.
• Kbal Spean: A 20-minute drive from Banteay Srei, this archaeological site features riverbed carvings, jungle hikes, and a lovely waterfall (best visited during or after the rainy season).
• Banteay Samre: A peaceful, underrated temple complex on the route back toward Angkor—great for photos and reflection.
• Local Villages: Ask your driver to stop at a roadside stand for fresh coconut, sticky rice in bamboo, or palm sugar treats.

🛕 Sample Itinerary: A Perfect Day Around Banteay Srei

1. 5:00am: Depart Siem Reap by tuk-tuk
2. 6:00am: Arrive at Banteay Srei, soak up sunrise and solitude
3. 8:00am: Enjoy breakfast from a local vendor or packed picnic
4. 8:30am: Head to the Landmine Museum for a short visit
5. 10:00am: Continue to Kbal Spean for a nature walk and riverbed carvings
6. 1:00pm: Lunch at a countryside restaurant (try local curries or fresh fruit)
7. 2:30pm: Visit Banteay Samre
8. 4:00pm: Return to Siem Reap with a stop at a market or for a quick snack

✨ Final Thoughts: Why Banteay Srei Lingers in Memory

Of all the temples in Angkor, Banteay Srei is one of those that truly sticks with you. It’s not the grandest or the most famous. But its charm lies in the way it quietly dazzles.

Have you been to Banteay Srei, or is it on your Cambodia bucket list? Share your own travel tips, favorite temples, or Angkor adventures in the comments below—let’s keep the spirit of discovery going!

For more info on things to do and see around Siem Reap, you can check out my Cambodia travel itinerary.