Last year I visited Edinburgh in the wintertime to attend the Hogmanay year-end celebrations, however, as I walked around the city on my first day there, I couldn’t help thinking of another popular celebration: Halloween.
There’s something about this city that lends itself well to spooky tales and ghoulish characters, and as I soon learned, I wouldn’t have to let my imagination run too wild.
Edinburgh does have a bit of a dark history – one that includes hauntings, grave robbers, and even a bit of wizardry! Over the course of my visit I got to experience a few of these, and with Halloween just around the corner I thought I’d share a different side of Edinburgh, Scotland.
Edinburgh Castle
Located atop Castle Rock, Edinburgh Castle has been a major fortification for hundreds of years. The castle is a fascinating complex which is home to treasures like the Crown Jewels, the famed medieval cannon Mons Meg, and St. Margaret’s Chapel (which also happens to be the oldest surviving building in the city!), however, aside from its rich history, Edinburgh Castle is also believed to have quite a few resident ghosts that on occasion reveal themselves.
These apparitions include the phantom piper, who is believed to be the ghost of a man who vanished while exploring the underground tunnels beneath the Royal Mile; the ghost of the headless drummer, whose drums can be heard when the castle is about to be attacked (he hasn’t been seen in many years); the spirits of the French prisoners, men who fought in the Seven Years War; and even the ghost of a dog, who has been spotted wandering around the castle’s very own dog cemetery.
But don’t let that spook you. I visited at nighttime and lived to tell the tale.
Mary King’s Close
Deep beneath Edinburgh’s Royal Mile lies a world that has remained forgotten for hundreds of years. What you see above ground is the new Edinburgh, but the Edinburgh of old can still be found standing beneath the busy street. One of the most famed underground spots is Mary King’s Close.
A ‘close’ is the Scots word for a narrow alleyway. These were generally named after the most prominent citizen in the close, and in this case it was Mary King, a mother of four who though widowed was able to make a good living. She owned several of the properties along the lane, and so the close was named after her.
In 1645, Edinburgh was hit by the Great Plague. It was a devastating epidemic and it is believed that up to half of the city’s population succumbed to it. Those who fell sick with the plague were either forbidden from leaving their homes, or moved to quarantined huts outside the city walls. It was a desperate attempt by the authorities to try and salvage Edinburgh’s population.
This epidemic, in turn, gave birth to a popular myth surrounding Mary King’s Close. The tale says that in their desperation to combat the plague, officials made the decision to brick up the close leaving more than 300 residents trapped. Both the infected and the non-infected had no escape and ultimately died in their homes.
This was so long ago that no one can tell for sure whether it actually happened, but it does explain why the close is believed haunted.
The Grave Robbers
In the 1800s, medical sciences began to flourish and students flocked to universities to learn about anatomy. Cadavers were needed for these lessons, but up until this time only the cadavers of executed criminals could be used since this practice was considered taboo. However, with the reduction of executions being carried out in the early nineteenth century a problem arose: demands for bodies were high, but there simply weren’t enough corpses for dissection to go around.
This led to the practice of grave-robbing. Body-snatchers lurked around cemeteries waiting for the dead to be buried, and later that night they would sneak into the burial yard where they would dig up the grave and steal the body. Of course, as churches caught on to what was happening in their graveyards, they started keeping watch, making it a lot more difficult for grave robbers to continue their business venture. But since there was still a lot of money to be made selling corpses this caused certain individuals to turn to crime; two of the most prominent names being Burke and Hare.
William Burke and William Hare were two Irish immigrants who arrived in Edinburgh in search of new opportunities. Seeing body-snatching was in high demand, they decided to make a business of it. The first body they sold was that of a man who died of natural causes, but they soon realized that they could make a lot more money by murdering people rather than waiting for them to pass. This lead to a murder spree across the city. The two men killed a total of 16 victims over the course of 10 months, all of which ended up in the anatomy lectures of Doctor Robert Knox who was a professor at the University of Edinburgh…
Hare and Burke were eventually caught and hanged for their crimes, but their legend still lives on in the city.
The Harry Potter Trail
Potter fans have good reason to come to Edinburgh. After all this is the city where J.K. Rowling drew much of her inspiration for the Harry Potter series.
One of the most popular spots is the Elephant House Cafe which we might call the birthplace of Harry Potter. This little coffee shop which overlooks Edinburgh Castle is where Rowling penned the first book of the series Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone. Today visitors can grab a cup of coffee and perhaps even snag a seat where Rowling herself sat.
For those with a big budget, the Balmoral Hotel is another spot that has shot to the limelight. This hotel is where Rowling completed the final book of the series titled Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows, and some of the hardcore fans have been booking themselves in at the same 5 star property where the author penned the novel. At almost £ 1,000 a night, Room 552 doesn’t come cheap!
Next up is George Heriot’s School, a striking building with grand turrets and many intricate carvings. Established in 1628, this school is believed to have provided some inspiration for the Hogwarts School of Witchcraft and Wizardry.
And last but not least, a certain tombstone in Greyfriar’s Kirkyard has also garnered quite a bit of attention. In the Harry Potter books, Lord Voldemort also known as “He-Who-Must-Not-Be-Named”, is said to have been born as Tom Riddle. It just so happens that there is a grave at Greyfriar’s Kirkyard for a man by the name of Thomas Riddle, and this is reason enough for Potter fans to make the pilgrimage.
And these are just a few of the reasons why Edinburgh got me thinking of dark tales and grim characters.
Your Ultimate Spooky-Chic Edinburgh Planner (Routes, Weather Cheats, Tickets & Tips)
You’ve met the castle ghosts, crept through Mary King’s Close, and side-eyed the grave robbers. Now here’s the practical, pretty gritty version of everything you need to actually plan it.
When To Go (Edinburgh-Specific Weather Cheats)
| Month Window | Typical Temps & Feel | Daylight | What To Wear/Pack |
|---|---|---|---|
| Sept – early Oct | 9–16 °C / 48–61 °F, golden evenings, occasional drizzle | 11–13 hrs | Trench with hood, ankle boots, scarf, light knit, compact umbrella |
| Mid Oct – Nov | 5–12 °C / 41–54 °F, windy spells, fast sunsets | 8–10 hrs | Wool coat + sweater, opaque tights, beanie, touch-screen gloves |
| Dec – early Jan | 1–8 °C / 34–46 °F, crisp, festive lights, chance of sleet | 7 hrs | Warm parka, merino base, thick socks, neck gaiter for tours |
| Feb – Mar | 2–9 °C / 36–48 °F, bright but chilly, frequent showers | 9–11 hrs | Waterproof shell over layers, water-resistant boots, spare socks |
Where to Base (Old Stones vs. Georgian Calm)
| Area | Vibe | Best For | Good To Know |
|---|---|---|---|
| Old Town (Royal Mile/Grassmarket) | Cobblestones, closes, eternal drama | Ghost walks, Mary King’s Close, Greyfriars, quick castle access | Stairs, slopes, and late-night pub noise—ask for a rear room |
| New Town (Princes/George St.) | Georgian elegance, big windows | Shopping, easy airport tram/bus, quieter sleeps | 10–15 min uphill walk to the Mile (worth it for the calm) |
| Southside/University | Cafés and student buzz | Surgeon’s Hall, budget eats, quick museum hopping | Great value; nights are lively when term is on |
2 Days in Spookytown
| Day | Morning | Midday | Afternoon | Evening |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Old Town check-in, coffee on the Royal Mile; peek into St Giles’ | Simple soup/pie lunch | Mary King’s Close tour (pre-book); wander Victoria St → Grassmarket | Blue hour at The Vennel for that castle shot → Ghost tour (vaults or cemetery) → nightcap at Devil’s Advocate |
| 2 | Edinburgh Castle first entry (quieter photos) | Sandwiches on the Esplanade or picnic in Princes St Gardens | Greyfriars Kirkyard (look for calm corners), glance at George Heriot’s from outside | Sunset on Calton Hill → cosy pub dinner (haggis or veggie haggis) → whisky flight |
Bonus Night (if you can): add Surgeons’ Hall Museums + Dean Village the next morning for soft, fairy-tale contrast.
Ghost Tour Picker (Choose Your Flavor of Fright)
| Tour Type | Best For | Expect | Booking Tip |
|---|---|---|---|
| Underground Vaults (South Bridge) | Adrenaline seekers | Tight spaces, total darkness, centuries-old tales | Not great for claustrophobia; bring a small torch (ask before using) |
| Cemetery Walks (Greyfriars/Canongate) | History lovers | More folklore, less jump-scare, lots of names & dates | Earliest evening slot = smaller groups & better audibility |
| Theatrical Ghost Walk | Families & fun-first | Capes, candles, comic timing with true lore | Stand near the guide for photos/audio; tip if you loved it |
| Adults-Only | Grown-up nights | Darker tales, fewer kids, sometimes spicy language | Check age limits at booking time |
Self-Guided “Spirits & Stories” Mini-Route
| Stop | Look For | Little Bonus |
|---|---|---|
| Castle Esplanade | Volcanic rock base, cannon lines, skyline | If bagpipes echo, pretend it’s the phantom piper 😉 |
| Advocates’ Close | Narrow frame toward Scott Monument | Grab a moody portrait here; it’s lantern-lit at night |
| Mary King’s Close | Time-capsule alleyways below the Mile | Book late-afternoon, then emerge into blue hour for drama |
| Victoria Street → Grassmarket | Curved, colorful façades, witch-trial plaques | Warm up with hot toddy before your tour |
| Greyfriars Kirkyard | Story-laden headstones, Kirkyard walls | Keep voices soft; aim for twilight silhouettes |
Respect reminder: cemeteries are active places of rest—stay on paths, avoid rubbings/props, and keep photography unobtrusive.
Potter-Trail Essentials (with Etiquette)
| Spot | Why It’s Fun | Etiquette / Reality Check |
|---|---|---|
| Victoria Street | Diagon-Alley vibes | Shop, snap, don’t block doorways; mornings are quietest |
| Greyfriars Names | “Thomas Riddle” & friends on headstones | No touching/rubbings; short, respectful visits only |
| George Heriot’s (view from outside) | School that feels…Hogwarts | It’s a working school—admire from public points only |
| Writing Cafés in Old Town | Early chapters took shape here | These are small cafés—order, be quick at peak times |
| Clock-topped hotel in New Town | Final book finished here | Lobby peeks are free; rooms are a splurge—treat if you wish |
Burke & Hare Thread (Anatomy of a Dark Chapter)
| Stop | What You’ll Learn | Tip |
|---|---|---|
| Surgeons’ Hall Museums | How medical teaching fueled cadaver demand | Plan 90–120 minutes; superb rainy-day stop |
| Canongate Kirkyard | Historic burials tied to the era | Wear boots; ground gets soft after rain |
| Grassmarket | Gallows history beneath today’s pubs | Read the plaques—they’re brief but powerful |
Rain Plan That Still Feels On-Theme
| Place | Why It Works | Pair It With |
|---|---|---|
| National Museum of Scotland | Grand halls + curiosities for hours | Coffee on the terrace when skies break |
| Surgeons’ Hall | Gory, brilliant, endlessly fascinating | Southside café crawl afterwards |
| Scottish National Gallery | Old Masters and hush | Stroll the gardens if the sun peeks out |
| Camera Obscura | Whimsy + rooftop views | Night photography practice nearby |
Cosy Eats & Warming Sips (Post-Tour Comforts)
- Whisky flight: Bow Bar (old school) or a stylish dram at Devil’s Advocate.
- Comfort plates: Haggis, neeps & tatties; or vegetarian haggis for a peppery, meat-free win.
- Sweet ending: Sticky toffee pudding or cranachan.
- Hot toddy basics: Whisky + honey + lemon + cloves—order it anywhere; it’s a right of passage.
- Tickets, Timing & Little Money Savers
- Pre-book: Edinburgh Castle (first or final slot), Mary King’s Close, your preferred ghost tour.
- Arrive early: At popular sites, being 10–15 minutes ahead smooths everything.
- Discounts: Students/under-26/seniors—bring ID. National museums are free (donations welcome).
- Transport: Airport tram to the New Town; the airport bus is great if you’re Old Town-bound.
- Bundles: If you’re also visiting Holyroodhouse or the Royal Yacht, run the numbers on combo passes vs. single tickets.
Packing for Night Tours (Micro-List)
- Waterproof jacket with hood, compact umbrella
- Base layer + warm mid-layer, scarf, thin gloves
- Grippy boots or sneakers (no slick soles)
- Small torch/phone light (ask before using in tours)
- External battery + hand sanitizer + tissues
Budget Snapshot (Just to Frame Expectations)
| Item | Typical Spend Range |
|---|---|
| Castle or specialty museum entry | ££ |
| Ghost tour / Mary King’s Close | ££ |
| Pub main + dessert | £–££ |
| Whisky flight | £–££ |
| City transport (tram/bus single) | £ |
(£ = wallet-friendly, ££ = mid-range treat)
Pre-Trip Checklist (Print/Screenshot)
- ✅ Pick base (Old Town for atmosphere, New Town for calm)
- ✅ Reserve: Castle, Mary King’s Close, ghost tour
- ✅ Add one rainy-day museum (Surgeons’ Hall is a gem)
- ✅ Pack layers + grippy footwear + compact brolly
- ✅ Save your Self-Guided Route map & the 2-Day Plan
- ✅ Charge camera/phone; clear storage—you’ll fill it
Edinburgh FAQ: Wizardry, Hauntings & Practicalities
1) What’s the best time of year for spooky Edinburgh without freezing?
Late September to mid-November. You’ll get long twilights, fewer crowds, and plenty of ghost-tour availability. Pack layers, a hooded coat, and water-resistant boots.
2) Are ghost tours scary or just storytelling?
Both exist. “Vaults” tours lean darker and claustrophobic; cemetery walks are history-rich and gentler. Read the tour style and age guidance before booking and choose an early evening slot for a lighter tone.
3) Can kids do ghost tours?
Yes—look for family or “PG” versions (often 60–75 minutes, earlier times). Bring a warm layer, a small snack, and manage expectations: it’s mostly walking and listening.
4) How far in advance should I book Edinburgh Castle and Mary King’s Close?
For weekends/holidays, a week or two ahead is smart; midweek in shoulder season, a few days is usually fine. Aim for the day’s first entry at the Castle and late afternoon at Mary King’s Close (then roll into blue-hour photos).
5) Is Mary King’s Close accessible if I don’t like tight spaces?
There are narrow stairs and confined sections. If you’re claustrophobic or have mobility concerns, email the venue for the accessibility route and safety notes before purchasing tickets.
6) What’s respectful behavior in Greyfriars Kirkyard?
Keep voices low, stay on paths, don’t touch or lean on headstones, and avoid flash photography near active services. If you visit the well-known “Thomas Riddle” grave, keep it brief and unobtrusive.
7) Where are the best moody photo spots at dusk?
The Vennel (castle framed by stone steps), Victoria Street after rain (reflections), Calton Hill at sunset, and the Castle Esplanade during blue hour. Brace your camera/phone on a wall and let Night Mode work.
8) I’m here for Harry Potter—what’s realistic etiquette?
Victoria Street is a working street, cafés are small, and George Heriot’s is an active school (admire from public viewpoints only). Buy something if you linger in a café; mornings are quietest for photos.
9) What should I wear for night tours on cobbles?
Grippy footwear, a hooded waterproof layer, warm mid-layer, scarf/beanie, and thin gloves. Bring a compact umbrella and a small power bank—many tours last 60–90 minutes outdoors.
10) I only have two days—how should I structure them?
Day 1: Old Town wander → Mary King’s Close → Ghost tour.
Day 2: Edinburgh Castle first thing → Princes Street Gardens lunch → Greyfriars/George Heriot’s → Calton Hill sunset → cosy pub. Book the three timed items in that order.
11) What if it pours all day?
Trade your outdoor loop for Surgeons’ Hall Museums (medical history that ties into the Burke & Hare story), the National Museum of Scotland, or the Scottish National Gallery. Slot a warm pub or tea break between venues.
12) How pricey is a “spooky” weekend?
Expect mid-range spends: paid entries (Castle/Mary King’s Close), one guided tour, and a couple of pub meals. National museums are free (donations welcome), and walking the closes, Calton Hill, and kirkyards is free.
Have you been to Edinburgh?
What city gets your imagination running a bit wild?
Great breakdown of Edinburgh! It’s a city that has always intrigued me, and now I think this post has pushed me over the edge. I actually have already opened up a tab to look for flights there from Spain, which is where I’m calling home for at least this year. Thanks, Audrey!
I hope you get to visit Edinburgh this year, Mike! It’s such a quick trip from Spain!! 🙂
I’ve always wanted to go to Edinburgh, and 99% of the reason is because I’m a HUGE Harry Potter fan – but I wouldn’t mind seeing Edinburgh Castle either. I hope I get to visit it someday, hopefully soon.
Great post! I went on a ghost tour in Edinburgh and it was definitely a bit creepy but also really interesting. Despite its gruesomeness, Edinburgh’s dark history fascinates me.
I was in Edinburgh for the Fringe Festival this year! And even the high festivities didn’t help the chills I felt as I walked around Edinburgh’s grim underground. Did you go on that trail?
I didn’t go on the underground trail – I don’t think I even knew about it at the time. I do remember seeing a lot of posters advertising a ghost tour, I wonder if that was the same thing…
It often is. Although the underground is quite a big network and can be accessed from different parts of the city, so it’s important to pick your tour carefully. The spooky tours are very gimmicky. Always better to go with a history-minded guide.
I like ghost places and want to visit them at night time (if allowed). I visited a Cemetery in Vietnam (Hàng Dương cemetery on Con Dao island), it was really scary but “i lived to tell the tale” ^^
I love cities with so much history and culture! I took a tour in London that visited all of the Jack the Ripper sites, definitely creepy, and it reminded me a little of Burke and Harre in Edinburgh. 🙂
I thoroughly enjoyed reading this post! And that first image is fantastic.
I love reading about the different myths that you find in older cities.
I visited Edinburgh three years ago but I was only there for a day. I’ve been itching to go back ever since; there’s something magical about the place.
Ooooh, I love creepy stuff like that! Bricking in that close is an interesting story and if it was actually true I could certainly see how some angry ghosts might still be kicking around there.
I’ll be there in November and absolutely can’t wait! I’m trying to read up on the city as much as I can, so this post came at a perfect time. Thanks!
That’s great to hear, Vicky! I hope you have a great time in Edinburgh. 😀
I can’t wait to visit Edinburg. I think it’s the “dark side” what attracts me the most.
Thanks for presenting us this other side of the city 😉
Ooh, this was a fun read and certainly gets us into the mood for Halloween! That first photo fits this perfectly too! Thanks for sharing!
I know! I felt like I was in a Halloween movie when I came upon that shot. 😉
Bewitching dark stories of Edinburgh! It gets me so excited to visit the place as well. And your photos are enchanting. I love your shot of those houses, it is so beautiful. I’m not really a huge fan of the Harry Potter series, but I became a fan of your stories. Nice one! 🙂
We were there in March and loved it! The Greyfriars Kirkyard is also famous for John Gray being buried there. His dog, Bobby, supposedly spent the rest of his life sitting on Gray’s grave. There are two versions of a movie called Greyfriars Bobby based on this story, and we watched the original 1961 Disney version when we got back from our trip. I would love to go to Edinburgh for Hogmanay.
I know the story but I completely missed that when I was there. Thanks for letting me know. I feel so sad for his dog Bobby…all those years spent waiting for his owner.
I haven’t been to Edinburgh, but that first photo of yours make me want to!
How appropriate for Halloween/fall. Love the wizardy and haunting feel of this place, you captured it so well!
Characters & Carry-ons
Great post with lots of history and culture. Definitely a place that’s been on my list of places to travel for while.
Awesome list, Audrey! I love Edinburgh so much – and this would definitely be a great time of year to be there. Hoping to go back next year!
Lovely post Audrey. 🙂
I love going to Edinburgh. It’s one of my favourite places. In fact, Scotland is! I always enjoying doing walking tours especially the Ghost Walks. Very intriguing. I also like going to the Edinburgh Dungeon and generally going to both the Old Town and the New Town, stuffing myself with lots of Scottish fare, beer and whisky! Summer is great for the Fringe Festival, but quite frankly, anytime is an excellent time.
Another city that I absolutely love is Prague, Hong Kong, London, and where I live right now – Berlin!
So interesting post! I have wanted to visit Edinburgh since a long time. I hope I will get the chance soon. 🙂
I’ve been to Edinburgh many times and it’s always a lot of fun, especially this underground tour! Great post 🙂