We came to Agra for the same reason everyone else does: to see the Taj Mahal – the one attraction that sits at the top of every visitor’s Agra travel itinerary. This symbol of undying love is one of the seven Wonders of the Modern World and one of the most beautiful buildings in India, so like countless travellers before us, we too made the long journey to see it with our own eyes. (Spoiler alert: it lived up to every single expectation and then some!)
Since our month in India was all about travelling at a slow and leisurely pace, we gave ourselves three full days in Agra (we later learned that most people only stay a night or two!), and fortunately for us, that meant we got to see and do quite a bit around the city. Now here’s a look at how we spent our 3 days in Agra:
Agra Travel Itinerary: Make the Most of Your Taj Mahal Experience!
Tour Agra Fort on foot
Agra Fort was the main residence of the Mughal emperors before they moved their capital to the Red Fort in Delhi, so if you’ve already been there on your travels through India, it’s kind of cool to see some of the similarities between the two structures.
Like the Red Fort in Delhi, Agra Fort is also a walled city and inside the enclosure you’ll find gardens, palaces, mosques, audience halls, and basically a maze of marble and red sandstone. If you’re interested in the history of the fort, you can easily hire a guide at the gates, however, it’s also the kind of place that you can enjoy on your own.
The cherry on top is that because Agra Fort is located just 2.5 kilometres from the Taj, you get some pretty cool views of it as well!
Admire the Baby Taj up close
Alright, so you’re not going to get any views of the Taj Mahal from the baby Taj, but if you’re already heading to Mehtab Bagh, this stop is right along the way.
The Baby Taj, whose real name is the Tomb of I’timād-ud-Daulah, is a mausoleum that was commissioned for Mirzā Ghiyās Beg; he was the grandfather of Mumtaz Mahal, the woman the Taj was built for.
The Baby Taj has been regarded as an early draft for the Taj, but I personally don’t see the resemblance – I think Humayun’s Tomb in Delhi offers a better representation of that! But what I can agree with is that the Baby Taj looks a bit like a jewelry box. From a distance the building may appear to be solid white marble, however, when you get up close you can see that it is covered in arabesques, geometric patterns, and colourful semi-precious stones!
Catch sunset at Mehtab Bagh
Another place you should make time for in Agra is Mehtab Bagh, which also goes by the ever romantic name: Moonlight Garden.
Aside from offering a quiet respite from Agra’s busy streets, these gardens sit directly behind the Taj Mahal and right across the Yamuna River, which means that once again you get some postcard perfect views.
This location is really popular at sunset, and couples, families, and tour groups were already starting to gather across the lawn long before the sun went down.
Legend has it that Emperor Shah Jahan, who commissioned the Taj Mahal, had wanted to build a mausoleum of black marble for himself in these very gardens to mirror the Taj Mahal. As history would have it, Shah Jahan’s own son ended up throwing him in prison, which meant this plan never came to pass, but can you imagine what that would look like today?
Tip: Because Mehtab Bagh is located so close to the Yamuna River, it can partially flood during the rainy season. Something to keep in mind if you visit during that time of year.
Get close to nature on the Taj Walk
One of the biggest surprises in Agra was the Taj Walk, also known as the Taj Protected Forest, which is located just before reaching the East Gate.
The Taj Walk is a mix of paved paths and dirt trails, where you can spot peacocks roaming wild, however, the crowning jewel of the park are the free views of the Taj Mahal! They have a few benches scattered across the grounds and every once in a while you’ll come across an unexpected hill that offers views of the Taj dazzling in the sunlight.
Because the park is located east of the Taj, you get the best views in the morning when the sunlight hits the building. You can still visit in the afternoon, but the Taj will be backlit – something to keep in mind for all you photogs out there.
Enjoy a meal with a view of the Taj
Saniya Palace Rooftop Restaurant calls itself “the restaurant with the best views of the Taj Mahal”, and while I didn’t try every restaurant in town, I can’t really argue with that statement either because the views were pretty spectacular.
This restaurant is located on top of a guesthouse by the South Gate and you have to huff and puff your way up several flights of stairs, but once you reach the top, you can see the Taj Mahal framed by pastel buildings.
The food did take a long time to arrive (we waited 45 minutes) and it’s not going to win any awards (expect standard Indian fare), but if you’re in no rush, the rooftop is a nice place to linger while you enjoy views of the Taj just a little bit longer.
Visit the Taj Mahal itself
And now I’ve saved the best for last: seeing the Taj Mahal up close!
What can I say about the Taj Mahal that hasn’t already been said before? The structure is striking from the minute you first set eyes on it.
We decided to skip the early morning wake-up call for sunrise, and made our way there at 9:00 a.m. without any rush. We were visiting on a weekend, but there were no lines at the East Gate, so we went through security and were standing in front of the Taj within minutes.
Thus, we spent the entire morning walking along the complex, gawking at the building’s beauty from every angle, and taking a gazillion pictures because you never know when you’re going to be back! If you’re planning on visiting, I would suggest you give yourself at least 2-3 hours to explore every nook and cranny.
Tip: Once a month on the full moon, the Taj Mahal is open for nighttime viewing, so if your trip happens to coincide with that, it’s a pretty rare opportunity to enjoy! Sadly, we missed the full moon by just a few days.
Stay within walking distance of the Taj
Our hotel in Agra was my favourite property of our whole month in India, so I just have to write about it! We stayed at a place called The Coral Court Homestay, which is a boutique hotel with a familiar touch.
The property was run by a travel-loving couple who had a colourful home filled with trinkets from around the world. I loved that wherever I looked there was an unusual artifact with a story, be it embroidered silk pillows with elephants, tinted glass lamps dangling from the ceilings, or shelves and coffee tables piled with books in foreign languages. It was like setting foot in the home I’d like to have one day.
Aside from being a beautiful property, it was also within walking distance of the Taj Mahal while simultaneously being in a quiet area just off of Taj East Gate Road. If you’re looking for a place to stay in Agra, I would highly recommend this hotel!
Lastly, they served breakfast, lunch and dinner in a communal dining area where guests could mix and mingle, while swapping tales from their travels across India.
To wrap things up, I’m really glad I had three full days in Agra to sightsee without rush and tack on some lesser visited attractions. That being said, if you are on a tighter schedule, you can still pack quite a bit into a day or two, especially if you hire a rickshaw driver to take you around, so either way, you’ll enjoy your visit.
Would you add anything else to this Agra travel itinerary?
How To Plan the Perfect 3-Day Agra (and Squeeze Out Every Taj View!)
Agra is so much more than a quick “in-and-out for the Taj.” If you give the city three slow days (like we did), you earn time to see the marble marvel from numerous angles.
Day 1 – Forts, Marble Lace & Moonlight Garden
Morning: Agra Fort (arrive at opening)
Start where the Mughals lived before Delhi. The fort is a self-contained world: palaces, hammams, formal courtyards, audience halls, and those cinematic red-sandstone arcades that make you want to photograph every doorway. Wander with a guide if you love context; otherwise roam at your own speed and follow the breezes. Don’t miss Mussamman Burj, a marble tower where Shah Jahan is said to have looked across to the Taj—a great “first peek” moment for your trip.
Early Afternoon: Baby Taj (Tomb of I’timād-ud-Daulah)
Light, delicate, and covered in inlaid semi-precious stones, it’s often nicknamed a “jewelry box.” Walk the river terrace, lean in close to admire the pietra dura work, then duck into the shady pavilions when the sun gets feisty.
Late Afternoon into Sunset: Mehtab Bagh (Moonlight Garden)
Cross the river for that classic rear-view of the Taj. It’s unhurried here: families picnicking, kids flying kites, couples waiting for the sky to turn sherbet pink. On hazy days, silhouettes are dreamy; on clear days, bring a light telephoto for detail shots. (During the rains the gardens can partially flood, so have a back-up sunset plan—a rooftop viewpoint—just in case.)
Day 2 – A Full Taj Day (without the 4 a.m. alarm)
Mid-Morning: Taj Mahal
We went around 9 a.m. and still had a breezy entry via the East Gate. Take your time: walk the central axis for the postcard shot, then circle. The Taj is all about symmetry, but the asymmetrical corners (think: minarets framing the dome from an angle, archways with layered shadows) make surprisingly satisfying photos. Inside the mausoleum, it’s hushed and brief—respect the flow and keep moving.
Tips for the marble plinth: you’ll pop on shoe covers or go barefoot. The sun bounces hard here—sunglasses are your friend.
Lunch/Siesta: go back to your hotel for a breather (Agra heat + marble glare = nap time).
Golden Hour: Taj Protected Forest (Taj Walk) or Rooftop
If you’re staying near the East Gate, the protected forest gives you elevated knolls and birdlife (peacocks, if you’re lucky). For a lazy option, head to a rooftop like Saniya Palace for masala chai with your view.
Optional: Full-Moon Night Viewing
On a handful of nights around the full moon, there are short, timed night viewings from the garden (tickets are limited and sold in person the day prior). If your dates align, it’s a once-in-a-lifetime vibe.
Day 3 – Markets, Craft, and Tasty Things
Morning: Markets & lanes
Wander Taj Ganj for color and street life (this is the old travelers’ quarter), then branch to Sadar Bazaar or Kinari Bazaar for fabrics, bangles, and wedding-decor eye candy. Bargain with good humor. If you’re souvenir-curious, ask to see workshop demos of marble inlay (pietra dura) to understand the technique before you buy. Tip: genuine inlay feels flush to the touch; painted pieces feel smooth everywhere.
Afternoon: Food safari
Agra is a sweet tooth town. Look for:
- Petha (candied ash gourd; try the translucent classic or a saffron version)
- Bedai & jalebi (a popular breakfast—puffy fried bread with spiced potato + swirls of syrupy jalebi)
- Mughlai classics (rich gravies; vegetarians are spoiled for paneer)
- Lassi (creamy, cold, bliss)
For a meaningful coffee stop, Sheroes Hangout (run by acid-attack survivors) is inspiring and serves good food—your rupees do double duty.
Sunset: One more angle
Return to your favorite: Mehtab Bagh for fading light, the Taj Walk for birdsong, or that rooftop you loved the most.

Taj View Cheat-Sheet
Spot | Best Time | Why You’ll Love It |
---|---|---|
Agra Fort (Mussamman Burj side) | Late morning | Framed, story-rich view with history under your feet. |
Mehtab Bagh (across the river) | Sunset | Silhouette possibilities, room to breathe, romantic vibes. |
Taj Protected Forest (East Gate) | Morning | Soft front-lit Taj plus peacocks and quiet benches. |
Main Taj Complex (central pool) | Early–mid morning | Symmetry and reflections; crowds still manageable if you’re patient. |
Rooftop (Taj Ganj/South Gate area) | Golden hour | Tea + skyline + that ivory dome floating above pastel houses. |
Photography note: tripods/monopods are typically not permitted inside the Taj complex; travel light and get creative with railings and knees for stability.

Gate & Logistics Low-Down
- Gates:
- East Gate – calmest approach, handy if you’re staying near Taj East Gate Road (we were).
- West Gate – busy with local visitors, especially Fridays/Sundays.
- South Gate – close to bazaar/rooftops; entry hours can be shorter—check day-of.
- Closed on Fridays for prayers. Plan your Taj day on any other day and use Friday for forts/markets.
- What you can/can’t bring: small daypack, camera/phone, water, and sunscreen are fine. Food, drones, big tripods, and anything that looks “pro-audio” usually get turned away. There are simple lockers by the gates if you forget and need to stash something.
- Dress & comfort: it’s a conservative city—shoulders and knees covered keeps everyone comfortable (and helps with sun). A light scarf is multi-use: shade, temple cover, dust buffer. The marble gets bright; hats/sunglasses help.
- Getting around: e-rickshaws/cycle rickshaws rule short hops; app cabs (when available) are convenient for cross-town runs; your hotel can call a trusted driver for half-day circuits (efficient if you’re stringing together Baby Taj + Mehtab + a rooftop).

Eat & Drink: Where (and What) to Try
- Views with bites: Saniya Palace Rooftop (South Gate) for the panorama—order a chai and linger.
- Casual Indian: Joney’s Place near Taj Ganj for no-frills curries and conversation.
- Treats to hunt:
- Petha from a busy, local-favorite sweet shop (ask your host for their current pick).
- Bedai & jalebi breakfast near Sadar Bazaar—arrive early; they sell out.
- Kulhad lassi (served in a clay cup) on hot afternoons.

Culture Notes & Kind Travel
- Guides & touts: only hire guides at official desks or by recommendation; many “I’m your guide!” approaches at gates are actually commission chasers.
- Craft shopping: you’ll be shown “marble” everywhere. Real inlay work is slow art and priced accordingly; if a full tabletop costs the same as dinner, it’s paint or a veneer. Buy smaller genuine pieces if you love the craft—coasters or tiny boxes travel well.
- Temple & mosque visits: remove shoes, dress modestly, and ask before photographing people.
- Animals: don’t feed monkeys around the complex (they’re clever thieves); keep wrappers secure and pack your litter out.

If You’ve Got an Extra Day
- Fatehpur Sikri (UNESCO): a striking red-sandstone Mughal capital about an hour away—palatial courtyards, an immense gate (Buland Darwaza), and haunting empty halls.
- Akbar’s Tomb (Sikandra): serene gardens and a monumental tomb with beautiful geometric detail.
- Ethical wildlife stops (by arrangement): rescue centers near Mathura operate visitor programs—book directly and avoid places offering rides or tricks.

“What Will It Cost?”
- Taj Mahal ticket: expect it to be the priciest site of your trip; bring ID and a card or cash. Shoe covers are included near the mausoleum area.
- Other monuments: Agra Fort and Baby Taj are significantly less. Combo options sometimes exist for foreigners; your hotel or the official counter can confirm current details.
- Getting around: short rickshaw hops are inexpensive; agree the fare before you roll. Half-day private drivers cost more but pay off in time saved if you’re stringing distant sights.

Packing for Agra’s Elements
- Heat & glare: breathable layers, hat, compact umbrella (doubles as portable shade).
- Footwear: comfy closed-toe shoes for forts and dusty lanes; easy on/off helps at temples.
- Little extras: pocket tissues, hand sanitizer, light scarf, lip balm, and a soft cloth to wipe marble dust from your camera/phone lens.

Agra Trip FAQ
How many days do I really need in Agra?
You can technically dash through in a day, but three unhurried days is the sweet spot. It gives you time for Agra Fort and the Baby Taj on day one, the Taj Mahal itself plus the Taj Protected Forest or a rooftop on day two, and markets, sweets, and a sunset encore at Mehtab Bagh on day three. If you’re on a tight schedule, two days still works—just combine Baby Taj + Mehtab Bagh with your Taj day.

What’s the best time of day to visit the Taj Mahal and avoid crowds?
Early morning is the calmest and gives you soft, flattering light. We went around 9 a.m. and breezed through the East Gate with minimal queuing. Midday is brightest (bring sunglasses), and late afternoon can be lovely but busier. For photos, mornings light the facade; afternoons backlight it—great for silhouettes but trickier for detail.
Which gate should I use to enter the Taj?
Use the gate closest to where you’re staying. The East Gate is usually the smoothest and pairs well with the Taj Protected Forest and many hotels. The West Gate is popular with domestic visitors and can be busier on weekends. The South Gate sits by the bazaar/rooftops but keeps shorter hours. All three have security checks and simple lockers for prohibited items.
What can I bring inside, and are tripods or drones allowed?
Keep it light: phone/camera, small daypack, water, sunscreen, and a hat. Food, large bags, tripods/monopods, drones, and pro-audio gear are not permitted. You’ll be given or can buy shoe covers for the marble plinth, or you can go barefoot there. If you accidentally bring a banned item, use the gate lockers to stash it before entry.
Is the Taj open every day, and what about full-moon night viewing?
The Taj Mahal is closed on Fridays for prayers. On five nights each month (the full moon night, plus two nights before and after), limited, timed night viewings are offered from the garden—tickets are sold in person the day before and they do sell out. If your dates align, it’s a rare, quiet way to see the monument.

How do I get around Agra without wasting time?
For short hops, use cycle or e-rickshaws and agree the fare before you ride. For a cluster of sights (Baby Taj + Mehtab Bagh + a rooftop), hiring a trusted driver for a half day is efficient and not too pricey—your hotel can arrange one. Walking works in Taj Ganj and around bazaars; for longer cross-town trips, ask your accommodation for an app cab or a car.
Where are the best Taj viewpoints beyond the main complex?
Four easy winners: (1) Agra Fort—especially near Mussamman Burj for a story-rich frame; (2) Mehtab Bagh across the river for sunset silhouettes; (3) Taj Protected Forest (Taj Walk) near the East Gate for front-lit morning views and peacocks; (4) Taj Ganj rooftops (like Saniya Palace) for tea with a skyline. Note Mehtab Bagh can partially flood in monsoon season.
Should I hire a guide, and how do I avoid touts?
If you enjoy history and context, a guide at Agra Fort or the Taj can elevate the visit. Book through your hotel or the official counters at the gates—avoid “freelancers” who approach you mid-street. Be friendly but firm with touts; a simple “No, thank you” and walking on works best. For shopping stops, only go if you’re interested.
What should I wear and pack for comfort and respect?
Agra is conservative and sunny. Lightweight, breathable layers that cover shoulders and knees keep you comfortable and culturally appropriate. Add a hat, sunglasses, sunscreen, and a light scarf (multi-use for shade or temple visits). Closed-toe shoes are best for forts and dusty lanes; slip-on styles make temple/mausoleum shoe removal easier.
What are the can’t-miss foods and easy places to try them?
Start sweet with petha (translucent candied ash gourd) and a breakfast plate of bedai with spiced potato, followed by hot jalebi. Cool off with a kulhad lassi (served in a clay cup). For a meal that does good, visit Sheroes Hangout (run by acid-attack survivors). And if you want a view as a side dish, a simple curry or chai on a Taj Ganj rooftop will do the trick.
What else can I see if I have an extra day?
Two excellent add-ons are Fatehpur Sikri (the former Mughal capital in striking red sandstone about an hour away) and Akbar’s Tomb at Sikandra (serene gardens and intricate geometry). Back in Agra, wander Sadar Bazaar or Kinari Bazaar for fabrics and bangles. As always, carry water, keep valuables close, and ask your hotel to arrange reliable transport.
Wow! amazingly described. Taj Mahal is really really beautiful. I visited the monument 2 years ago. Lovely pictures!
This is so stunning….I have been to India once but unfortunately couldn’t visit the Taj Mahal……lovely read.
The Taj Mahal for me is one of the most stunning buildings we have! It is so much better in person. When we visited the place in 2013, I just couldn’t believe it! The experience is surreal!
Hello! I recently had found your videos on YouTube and have since started following your blog. I was wondering if you had a post that kind of explains more about your back-story and how you came to be able to travel as much as you do? Thanks!!
Hi Tabitha, I guess you could say I got started with teaching English overseas. I’ve always enjoyed travelling and I took the opportunity to do so during every winter holiday and summer break when I was in university. Once I graduated, I took a job teaching English in Korea, met my husband, and ended up travelling around Southeast Asia with him. Along the way I started this blog and a YouTube channel, both of which I monetized, and I also got work writing pieces for travel websites. I should probably write a more in depth blog post about it at some point, but that’s the short version!
Fab photos! I thought the Baby Taj was beautiful. Were you disappointed by the scaffolding on the Taj Mahal? Apparently the whole dome will be covered this year which is a shame, but it’ll look stunning when back to it’s original glory.
Ahh, someone had warned me about the scaffolding, so I can’t say I was disappointed since I knew to expect it. It’s not great for photographers looking to get that iconic Taj shot, but the building is beautiful regardless! Apparently they’re also going to be applying mud packs to clean the yellow marble, so at least I missed that.
Beautiful post! Nice to read about places other than Taj in Agra, that provide beautiful views of it. Love reading your blog posts 🙂
I absolutely adored Agra. It’s such a beautiful enchanting place! I could have stayed there all day.
Well, without all the crowds of course, but still!
Beautiful post! Agra really is an oasis of charm and splendor. But the Taj is not a stand-alone attraction. The legacy of the Mughal empire has left a magnificent fort and a liberal sprinkling of fascinating tombs and mausoleums. Wonderfull place to visit!
Hi Audrey, Thank you for sharing your experience in Agra with us in such a wonderful post. I really enjoyed reading it with your tips and recommendations on where to have a good view and stay while travelling in Agra. The monuments that you mentioned are really the most important monuments in Agra but i would like to add to the list, the tomb of Akbar or Sikandra, which is located 15 kms from Taj Mahal. The tomb is built on an area covering 119 acres during early 17th century. This is the mausoleum that Akbar chose for himself but could not finish it during his time. The monument has Mughal elements like red sandstone and marble with inlay works and geometric patterns. The tomb is not a UNESCO’s heritage site but still worth visiting.
Agra is just an amazing travel destination, I have been there twice.
I would love to go back again and again. I love the Taj a lot.
Thanks for your amazing travel guide and your photos are mind-blowing.
Agra is an amazing place to visit and The Taj Mahal is the most beautiful building i have ever seen.
The beauty of The Taj Mahal is just amazing and can’t be explain in words.