Milan City Guide: 48 Hours of Art, Food and Fashion in Milan, Italy!

Milan surprised me in so many ways. I think this is one of those cities that is often a little misunderstood and people dismiss it as boring (several friends had told me to skip it), and yet I ended up having a wonderful time there.

I personally believe that the secret to a good time in Milan lies in its experiences rather than ticking off tourist attractions. While the city has a few cool sights to boast, the fun really begins when you start to sample unique Milanese dishes, go out for a late night along the canals, and try to seek out some cool street art.

Here are some of my personal travel highlights of my 48 hours in Milan:

Milan Travel Guide: Top Things to Do, See, Eat, Drink & Experience in Milan, Italy!

Enjoying long dinners along the Navigli District

Milan’s Navigli District is the place to be and be seen. It doesn’t matter if it’s the weekend or the middle of the week, when the sun goes down, the little cafes and restaurants along the canal suddenly come to life. Whether you want a quick aperitivo or you’re looking for one of those never ending meals with antipasto, primo, secondo, contorno, and whatever else comes next, you’ll find it here.

If you’re not in the mood for food but you still want to check out the canals, you can also opt for a canal cruise. These last about an hour and you get to see a mix of churches and street art as you drift down the waters.

Going in search of street art

Milan has a lot of really cool street art happening and you’ll often stumble upon it when you’re not even looking. Since street art is always changing I don’t want to give exact addresses lest you trek all the way out there and find that a piece has been completely painted over, but that being said some neighbourhoods to check out are Leoncavallo, Isola, and Porta Ticinese.

My favourite piece of street art in Milan was this lizard/alien face which I spotted really close to Basilica of Sant’Eustorgio. I don’t know who the artist is, but I know I’ve seen that same face in another European city – I just can’t remember where at the moment!

Finding ruins in the middle of the city

On our first morning in Milan, Sam and I decided to skip the tram and walk into the city centre to familiarize ourselves with the area. We were walking up Corso di Porta Ticinese when we came across Colonne di San Lorenzo, which are the remains of Roman ruins that date back to the 2nd century. There are 16 columns that line the piazza in front of Basilica di San Lorenzo, and they are believed to have been part of a bath house before they were moved to their current location at some point during the 4th century.

Visiting a castle with treasure to boast

Another place I really enjoyed visiting was Castello Sforzesco – did you know that Milan has a castle?! It was built in the 15th century on top of fortifications that date back to the 14th century, and then it saw several waves of construction and expansion in the centuries that followed.

The complex is quite large and you can visit the castle defences, wander the courtyards, and try to lure the stray cats that hang around in the empty moat. The castle is home to numerous museums, but the two works that most people want a glimpse of are Michelangelo’s last sculpture Rondanini Pietà and the castle frescoes painted by Leonardo Da Vinci.

Discovering the art of the aperitivo

Oh, the aperitivo! This is something that both fascinates and baffles me.

So, Italian meals are known for being notoriously long and they often involve several courses, but the aperitivo is just the beginning. The aperitivo is essentially a pre-dinner drink that is meant to open the palate and prepare you for what’s to come, while offering a very relaxed mood where you can catch up on the day’s events with friends.

The way it works is that you order a cocktail, generally somewhere around 10 Euros, and this also gives you access to an open buffet of what Italians consider ‘snacks. When I heard snacks I was expecting some olives, prosciutto, and peanuts, but no, they go all out here! I’m talking about pizza, ravioli, salads, lasagna, chicken, and that’s just the savoury buffet. There was also a dessert buffet…

If you want to check out the place where Sam and I had our aperitivo, go to Manhattan along the Navigli canal. It’s a really popular spot, and the variety of foods was truly impressive. By the time I walked out of there I felt like I’d had my fill of dinner, so keep that in mind if you’re thinking of grabbing food afterwards.

Enjoying the views from the terraces of Il Duomo

If there’s one thing I was really excited about doing in Milan, it was climbing to the top of Il Duomo for a view of the city below. How many churches out there actually have a rooftop terrace?!

To give you a bit of background, the Duomo is a Gothic cathedral that took nearly six centuries to complete and it is listed as the 5th-largest church in the world. The exterior is covered in Candoglia marble, which gives it its off-white pinkish colour, and it’s probably the most recognized landmark in the whole city. 

Once you get up to the rooftop you are surrounded by the most intricate spires and you also get some pretty cool views of the main square below where people look to be the size of ants. Needless to say, there are long lines, but the wait is worth it once you reach the top. Either that or go early!

Starting the mornings with a sweet breakfast

Since Sam and I had recently finished travelling around the UK and Ireland, we had gotten used to the savoury full breakfasts that come complete with eggs, sausages, beans, tomatoes, mushroom, and whatever else they add depending on the region. That’s why it was such a pleasant surprise to discover that Italians have a sweet tooth when it comes to breakfast.

Our breakfasts in Milan generally consisted of a frothy cappuccino from a local coffee shop as well as a sweet pastry on the side. My favourite was a twisty puff pastry with melted chocolate chips on the inside – I couldn’t tell you the name, but it was oh-so-good!

Window shopping in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II

When it comes to shopping, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II is one of the most high-end destinations. This is where you find names like Prada, Versace, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Armani, and others. These aren’t stores where I’d ever shop (not only because I can’t afford it, but because there are better things to spend your money on than a $10,000 handbag!), nevertheless, this is a place you visit for its architecture.

The Galleria is a pretty special place because it is a four story arcade with a roof that combines glass and cast iron. It also happens to be one of the oldest shopping malls in the world, and whether you’re looking down at the mosaic floors or up at the arched ceiling, it’s bound to wow you.

Exploring Milanese cuisine

Every city or region is usually known for at least one specific dish and in Milan that dish is Risotto alla Milanese. Seeing as Sam and I are major foodies and we like to film videos highlighting the local cuisine wherever we travel, we had to try this dish.

Risotto is made with a starchy rice that has the ability to absorb a lot of liquids. It generally has a creamy consistency thanks to a generous use of butter and cheese, and it can be prepared many different ways – with mushrooms, seafood, mixed vegetables, you name it!

The Milanese recipe calls for saffron alone, and that means you end up with a relatively simple yet very flavourful recipe. Sam and I polished off everything on our plates and were left beyond stuffed.

Fun fact: in Italy risotto is served as a primo (first course), which means technically you could order a few more dishes after that…whether your stomach can handle it or not, is up to you to decide.

And that’s a wrap of our quick visit to Milan! Next up, lots of posts from Chiavenna and Bergamo, which are two very easy day trips from the city.

48-Hour Milan Guide: Tips, Itineraries, Neighbourhoods, Food & Handy Checklists

Two Easy 48-Hour Itineraries (Steal One, Mix & Match, or Use as a Skeleton)

Itinerary A: “Classic Milan With Tasty Detours”

Day 1 – Duomo, Galleria & Sforza Castle

• Morning: Start outside Il Duomo and head up to the terraces as soon as they open (or late afternoon for softer light). Wander among the marble lacework, then drop back down to people-watch in the square.
• Late Morning: Walk into Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II for a slow lap under the glass and cast iron. Window-shop, then duck out the other side to La Scala’s square for a quick peek.
• Lunch: Grab a milanese panzerotto or a simple risotto near the centre.
• Afternoon: Stroll to Castello Sforzesco. Explore the courtyards, then drift into the park behind (Parco Sempione) for a green breather.
• Evening: Learn (and love) the aperitivo in Navigli—one cocktail, generous buffet, a very Milan way to warm up for the night.

Day 2 – Art & Neighbourhoods

• Morning: Pick your art flavour: Pinacoteca di Brera for Old Masters, Museo del Novecento for 20th-century, or a contemporary fix at Pirelli HangarBicocca / Fondazione Prada.
• Lunch: Find a trattoria for cotoletta alla milanese (that golden veal cutlet) or try mondeghili (Milanese meatballs).
• Afternoon: Wander Brera’s cobbles or Isola’s street-art pockets. Pause for a caffè at the bar (standing) like a local.
• Sunset: Back to Navigli for canal light and outdoor tables, or head to a rooftop bar near the centre if you want one last look at the spires from afar.

Itinerary B: “Creative Milan + Canals After Dark”

Day 1 – Street Art, Design Touchpoints & Canals

• Morning: Isola district wall-hunting (underpasses and shutters are your friends).
• Late Morning: Hop to Porta Ticinese and the Colonne di San Lorenzo—yes, Roman columns right in the middle of it all.
• Lunch: Quick slices or a sit-down primo (saffron risotto if you didn’t have it yesterday).
• Afternoon: Design fix at Fondazione Prada or Triennale; both are easy half-days.
• Evening: Navigli aperitivo crawl—pick one spot, then stroll for gelato and people-watching.

Day 2 – Rooftops & Castle

• Morning: Duomo terraces (go early for fewer elbows).
• Midday: Castello Sforzesco courtyards and moat (cats optional, smiles guaranteed).
• Afternoon: Coffee + cake in Brera, then poke into boutiques.
• Evening: Slow dinner canal-side or a neighbourhood trattoria in Porta Romana for a quieter, local feel.

Where to Stay: A Quick Neighbourhood Decoder

Timing Tricks & Ticket Smarts (Avoid Queues, Catch the Light)

• Duomo terraces: Prebook and pick the first or last slots. Morning = fewer crowds; late afternoon = beautiful glow on the marble.
• Castle & parks: Go mid-morning or late afternoon; the courtyards bask prettily in oblique light.
• Navigli: Book aperitivo tables if you’re picky about views. Otherwise, arrive before the rush and linger.
• Museums: Mondays can be tricky; double-check opening days. For contemporary art, check current exhibitions—rotations can be fantastic.

Milanese Eating: Your Foodie Guide to Local Eats

Aperitivo 101 (How It Works)

• Order a drink (classic bitter cocktails do well), access the snack spread, and settle in. It’s casual, not chaotic, and perfect for catching up. If the buffet is elaborate, you might not need dinner. I mean… that’s a personal decision but I’ve made it many times.

Dishes to Look For

• Risotto alla milanese: Saffron-gold, buttery, simple, perfect.
• Cotoletta alla milanese: Bone-in, buttery, crisp (ask for the traditional style).
• Ossobuco: Braised veal shank, often with saffron risotto (cooler months heaven).
• Mondeghili: Milanese meatballs—great aperitivo nibbles.
• Panzerotti: Folded, fried, melty middles (share one… or don’t).
• Panettone: Not just at Christmas—some bakeries do it year-round.

Coffee Small Talk

• Standing at the bar is cheaper/faster.
• A cappuccino after lunch won’t get you exiled, but locals keep milk-heavy coffees to the morning.
• Scontrino (receipt) first at some bars, then order.

Navigli Nights Without Stress

• Pick a side street if the canal is slammed—some of the best plates are a few doors off the water.
• Book or be flexible: Early birds score waterside tables; patient wanderers find hidden gems.
• Canal cruise? A mellow hour to see a different angle—good pre-dinner activity.
• Keep your bag on your lap outside and enjoy the show.

Street Art Treasure Hunt (Self-Guided Pockets)

• Isola: Murals near rail underpasses, colourful shutters, small galleries.
• Porta Ticinese / Navigli: Rolling shutters surprise you early mornings / late evenings.
• Leoncavallo surroundings: Edgier, larger pieces; go in daylight and wander main streets.

Rainy Day? Go Museuming

• Pinacoteca di Brera: Caravaggio to Raphael under one roof—classic, concentrated.
• Museo del Novecento: 20th-century Italian art next to the Duomo; cheeky geometry and big views.
• Pirelli HangarBicocca: Massive installations in a repurposed factory—industrial-cool.
• Fondazione Prada: For design lovers; architecture alone is a treat.

Fashion Without the Spend

• Quadrilatero della Moda: Window-shop the heavy hitters (Via Montenapoleone, Via della Spiga).
• Vintage & markets: Neighbourhood pop-ups are common on weekends—ask your host or check local boards.
• Local designers: Small ateliers in Brera/Isola have fun, wearable pieces that won’t require a second mortgage.

Day Trips (Easy, Breezy, Back for Dinner)

• Bergamo: Medieval upper town (Città Alta), views for days, great for a long lunch.
• Lake Como (Como town or Varenna): Waterfront strolls, ferry hops, mountain-lake views.
• Monza: Grandeur and a huge park; motorheads know the track.

All are reachable within about an hour or so by train, depending on your exact start/end.

Getting Around Milan: Transportation Guide

• Walk: The centre is compact; your feet + trams do wonders.
• Metro/Tram/Bus: Day passes are handy for 24–48 hours of zig-zagging. Validate tickets before boarding where required.
• Taxis & apps: Rides are regulated; use official ranks or reputable apps.
• Bikes & scooters: Fun on wide boulevards; avoid heavy tram tracks and peak crowds.
• Driving? Central areas have ZTL restricted zones—don’t accidentally roll in or you’ll roll out with a fine.

Seasonal Notes: When Is The Best Time To Visit Milan?

• Spring & Autumn: Sweet spot—patio weather, comfortable museum days.
• Summer: Hot, lively evenings; plan shade and siesta.
• Winter: Moody fog, twinkly lights, excellent for long museum + trattoria days.
• Event spikes: Design Week, Fashion Weeks, Salone events—electric buzz but book well in advance.

Packing & Etiquette Checklists

Quick Pack for 48 Hours

• Comfortable walking shoes (cobbles + stairways to spires)
• Light layer for evenings (even in summer—breezy canals!)
• Smart-casual outfit (aperitivo or a nicer dinner)
• Crossbody bag with zip
• Compact umbrella / rain shell (Milan weather likes drama)
• External battery (maps + photos = hungry phone)
• Reusable water bottle

Aperitivo & Dining Etiquette

• One drink = buffet access; don’t plate-mountain (you will be judged… kindly, but still).
• Ask for acqua naturale (still) or frizzante (sparkling).
• Service is usually included; a tiny round-up is appreciated, not mandatory.
• Book dinners for popular places, especially weekends.

Budget Snapshot (Your Mileage Will Vary)

• Coffee at the bar: typically less than table service.
• Aperitivo: expect to pay roughly the price of a cocktail and enjoy generous snacks.
• Museum entries: vary—some offer combo tickets or free days.
• Tram/Metro day pass: good value if you’ll ride more than twice.

Think of Milan as experience-forward: you’re budgeting for lingering, not lining up.

Photo Spots Worth the Pause

• Duomo terraces: Spires, shadows, and that pinky marble glow.
• Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II: Mosaic compass rose under the dome; look up for symmetry.
• Castello Sforzesco moat & arches: Texture, lines, and a bit of medieval mood.
• Navigli at golden hour: Reflections, bike silhouettes, clinking glasses.
• Colonne di San Lorenzo: Ancient-meets-modern frame, trams sweeping by.

Milan Trip: 12-Question FAQ

How early should I arrive for the Duomo terraces to avoid queues?

Aim for the first entry slot of the day or the last one before closing; both windows are calmer and give you softer light on the marble. Prebooking helps you skip the ticket-line shuffle.

Is the aperitivo really enough for dinner?

Often, yes. Some places keep it light, others practically serve a small buffet. If you find a generous spread and you’re not ravenous, you can absolutely make a night of it with one well-timed drink and leisurely grazing.

What’s the most walkable base for a short stay?

Brera and the Duomo area are the most walkable for first-timers, with sights, trams, and cafes on your doorstep. Navigli is ideal if your evenings revolve around canals and aperitivi, but expect longer daytime walks to the centre.

Can I do a quick canal cruise without eating up the evening?

Yes—typical cruises run around an hour, making them an easy pre-dinner activity. Go just before sunset for pretty light, then step straight into aperitivo mode.

Where should I go for street art if I only have one hour?

Head to Isola. You’ll find murals near railway underpasses and creative shutters within a compact area, making it efficient for a colour-packed walk.

Do I need to dress up for dinner in Milan?

Not formally, but smart-casual goes a long way. Simple, put-together outfits fit in easily everywhere from galleries to aperitivo to dinner.

How “strict” is the cappuccino-after-11 rule?

It’s tradition, not law. Locals typically switch to espresso later in the day, but if you crave a cappuccino after lunch, order it. At worst you’ll get a gentle smile.

Is Navigli safe at night?

It’s lively and well-trodden; use normal big-city awareness. Keep your bag zipped and in front of you, especially at outdoor tables, and stick to lit streets when heading home.

Can I visit both the Duomo interior and the rooftop with one ticket?

Combo options are commonly available. If your time is tight, prioritise the terraces—they’re the unique part you can’t replicate elsewhere.

What’s a good rainy-day plan that still feels “Milan”?

Pick one museum (Pinacoteca di Brera or Museo del Novecento), pair it with a slow lunch and a mid-afternoon espresso, then browse the Galleria under glass. You’ll stay mostly indoors and still feel the city’s style.

How do I avoid tourist-trap restaurants near the Duomo?

Walk five to ten minutes away from the square into Brera or side streets, check daily specials and short menus, and peek at where locals are seated. Trattorie with a focused menu usually care more about what’s on the plate.

Is Milan worth a visit if I’m not into fashion?

Absolutely. Come for rooftops and Roman columns, castle courtyards and contemporary art, risotto and canals at sunset. Fashion is just one thread; the tapestry is much bigger.

How would you spend 48 hours in Milan?