Visit Valparaiso: A Colourful Travel Guide to Chile’s Bohemian Port City

If you’ve been feeling the travel blues, Valparaiso will wash them away!

I have to admit, I’ve kind of been dragging my feet a little bit these last few weeks. The fast travel pace was starting to wear on me and there were mornings when I was craving a little bit of time in front of my computer as opposed to a day filled with sightseeing in a new locale, but Valparaiso got me out of that slump in no time.

It’s kind of hard to want to stay indoors when the city is an explosion of colour splattered across every building. There are cool murals, bright walls, unexpected stencils, cheery window shutters, and fun mosaics to catch your eye at every turn.

Here’s a look at some of the pictures I took on that trip, as well as some ideas of things to do in Valparaiso if you ever end up in this bohemian port city!

Our Valparaiso travel guide for independent travelers! 

Valparaiso City Guide: Top Things to Do, See, Eat, Drink & Experience in Valparaiso, Chile

Start the day with brunch

If you’re like me and you just can’t function before you’ve gotten some food in your system, then I recommend heading over to El Desayunador. They specialize in breakfast and meriendas (kind of like afternoon tea), and they also have some pretty nice cakes on their menu. FYI: In South America it’s perfectly acceptable to have cake for breakfast, so feast to your heart’s content!

Ride up and down the funiculars

Valparaiso is a city made up of hills. Our guide told us there are a total of 42 hills (though some locals insist there are 45) and that means a whole lot of walking! To make getting around Valparaiso a little easier, the city has a series of ascensores or funiculars that you can ride for a small fee. The best know of these is Ascensor Concepción which dates back to 1883! It is the oldest one in the city and it’s a very rickety (albeit safe) ride. Another fun one is Ascensor Reina Victoria, which gives you that iconic Valparaiso postcard shot once you reach the top.

Take a free walking tour of Valparaiso

If you want to see the city, but you don’t quite know where to begin, I would recommend joining one of the free walking tours. There are 2 main companies that lead tours across the city and those are Free Tour Valparaiso and Tours 4 Tips. This is a great way to get some insider knowledge, familiarize yourself with the neighbourhoods, and track down some of the best street art in town.

Go in search of street art

This is the thing to do in Valparaiso! I personally think the best hills to visit if you want to see some cool murals are Cerro Concepción, Cerro Alegre, and Cerro Bellavista. The first two are the most frequented by tourists, and the third one is home to Museo a Cielo Abierto (Open Air Museum) which is a circuit featuring various murals.

Take a boat tour of the port

Valparaiso is a port city so you can’t say you’ve visited until you’ve gone down to the harbour. Tours are 30 minutes long and they depart from Muelle Prat as soon as they get a boatful (usually around 25 passengers). The cost is 3,000 Chilean Pesos and you have a guide to point out the sights and talk about the history of the port. You go past giant container ships, tug boats, and navy vessels, so it’s a pretty cool outing.

Befriend all the dogs 

As a dog-lover who misses her grumpy old Lhasa-Poo back home, I’m always happy to come across dogs who are up for a little pet and a scratch, and the dogs in Valparaiso were just the friendliest! There are a lot of strays roaming the streets (locals seem to feed them and leave little containers with waters outside businesses and homes), and some of them will latch on to you and join you for a portion of your walk. We had a whole slew of ‘regulars’ who joined our free walking tour – they clearly knew the guide and that there was a stop at an empanada shop!

Visit Pablo Neruda’s quirky home

Pablo Neruda is Chile’s most famed poet and writer and he had 3 homes in Chile, one of which is in Valparaiso. Neruda’s home, better known as La Sebastiana, sits at the top of Cerro Florida, and let me warn you, it is a steep walk to the top. The home is 5 stories high and it has a pretty eclectic decor (Neruda was an avid art collector). You get individual audio guides inside that give you a glimpse at the writer’s life and his home. Admission to La Sebastiana is 6,000 Chilean Pesos per person.

Run up the famed piano steps

When it comes to Valparaiso’s street art, one of the best known pieces in the city is that of a staircase painted to resemble piano keys. “Everyone in Valparaiso has a Facebook profile pic on these steps!” our guide told us. These famed steps were painted by a musician who wanted to have a really cool album cover, so he decided to create some art of his own. Now here’s the kicker, these steps have been around for a few years and every once in a while they need a fresh coat of paint, so the artist was painting these steps a while ago, when the police caught him with a paintbrush in hand and had him arrested! It turns out that street art in Valparaiso is illegal (kind of hard to believe!) and if you’re caught painting a non-commissioned piece without permission, you can face a fine or even jail time.

Sample some of the best gelato in the world

Emporio La Rosa is an ice cream shop located in Anibal Pinto Square. It boasts a bright pink sign that reads, “You are in one of the 25 best ice cream shops in the world,” so that might be reason enough to grab yourself a cone with a scoop…or three.

Check out the cool architecture

Valparaiso has a really unique mix of architecture including a mish-mash of British and Eastern European influences. Some of the coolest homes to check out include Palacio Baburizza, a mansion built by a Croatian businessman that now houses the Fine Arts Museum; Casa Crucero, a five-story house built to look like a ship; and Palacio Astoreca, an imposing Victorian home turned boutique hotel.

Take a day trip to Viña del Mar

If I had to describe Viña del Mar to you, I would tell you it’s Valparaiso’s polar opposite. Valparaiso is colourful, creative, and a little rough around the edges, whereas Viña del Mar is monochromatic, chic, and a bit wealthier. It’s a super easy day trip or a nice weekend escape if you have a bit more time. The two cities are only 8 kilometres apart and you can easily get there with the above ground metro system that goes along the beach.

Safety in Valparaiso

Valparaiso has a reputation for being a rough-and-tumble kind of place, but I do think some of the guidebooks and online forums paint a rather extreme picture.

We ended up staying in the plateau which is the commercial and business district of the city, and we did this after reading so many warning that the hills were not safe. In retrospect, I wish I hadn’t followed this advice. The plateau was fine but it also lacked the spirit that you see up on the hills. Certain hills may not be considered safe, but places like Cerro Concepción and Cerro Alegre cater to tourists and they have lots of cute B&B’s, cafes, shops and restaurants – and we met so many travellers staying there! They are not the secluded and dangerous neighbourhoods they are made out to be.

Just exercise caution: don’t walk down alleys or staircases if you can’t see what’s at the end, don’t wander around unfamiliar areas after dark, and don’t dangle a flashy camera around your neck (put it away when you’re not using it).

Where to stay in Valparaiso

Here’s a selection of properties to fit all budgets on your trip to Valparaiso:

Luxury: Hotel Palacio Astoreca, Hotel Acontraluz, Zerohotel

Midrange: Hotel Da Vinci Valparaiso, Gervasoni Hotel Boutique, Hotel Fauna

Hostels: Hostal Voyage Hostel, Hostal De Visita, Casa Volante Hostal

Beyond the Basics: Your Practical, Playful & Photo-Ready Guide to Valparaíso

A 2–3 Day Itinerary You Can Actually Do

Day 1 – Hills, Funiculars & Harbour Breezes

• Morning: Fuel up at a brunch spot (El Desayunador is still a favourite). Wander Cerro Concepción and Cerro Alegre: peek into tiny galleries, grab a coffee, and let the street art lead the way.
• Midday: Ride Ascensor Concepción up and Ascensor Reina Victoria down for those iconic postcard views.
• Afternoon: Make your way to Muelle Prat and hop a 30-minute harbour boat to see container ships, tug boats and the navy from water level.
• Evening: Sunset pisco sours on a terrace in Cerro Alegre, then dinner at a cosy bistro tucked along a mosaic-lined stairway.

Day 2 – Neruda, Open-Air Art & Night Lights

• Morning: Climb (or taxi) to La Sebastiana, Pablo Neruda’s eccentric, view-blessed home. The audio guide is excellent.
• Midday: Head to Cerro Bellavista and follow Museo a Cielo Abierto (Open-Air Museum), a curated circuit of monumental murals.
• Afternoon: Gelato break at Emporio La Rosa (because yes), then ride Ascensor Artillería for sweeping views toward the naval academy.
• Night: Photograph the piano steps at blue hour, then catch a live set or slow dinner—Valpo’s hills glow after dark.

Day 3 (Optional) – Wine or Waves

• Option A: Viña del Mar – 15–20 minutes on the above-ground metro along the coast: city beaches, manicured plazas, casual chiringuito lunches.
• Option B: Casablanca Valley – Wine tasting between Valpo and Santiago (crisp sauvignon blancs and cool-climate pinots).
• Option C: Isla Negra – A Neruda house by the sea, all ship’s wheels and sea glass—an easy full-day loop.

Where to Stay (By Hill): A Quick Comparison

Eat & Drink: Bite-Sized Picks by Moment

Morning Things

• Cakes for breakfast (it’s a thing): marbled chocolate or tres leches alongside a café cortado.
• Pan con palta (avocado toast, Chile-style) + fresh jugos (mango, chirimoya, lucuma).

Daytime Grazing

• Empanadas al paso: oven-baked with pino (beef, olive, egg) or shrimp & cheese.
• Seafood plates: reineta, congrio or ceviche near the port.
• Helado break: the rose-pink sign at Emporio La Rosa lures you in for good reason.

Evenings & Sips

• Pisco sour (classic or maracuyá) with a view.
• Chorillana (Valpo’s belly-warming mountain of fries, caramelised onions and sliced beef—built for sharing).
• Craft beer bars tucked on side streets if grapes aren’t your thing.

Getting There & Getting Around: Transportation Guide

From Santiago to Valparaíso

• Bus: Frequent departures (roughly every 15–20 minutes at busy times) from Terminal Alameda or Pajaritos; ride time ~1.5–2 hours. Buses drop at Terminal Rodoviario in Valpo.
• Car: Route 68 west; budget for tolls and note weekend beach traffic.

Local Transport

• Ascensores (funiculars): Small fares, big charm. If one’s under maintenance, the next is usually close by.
• Taxis/ride-hailing: Affordable for uphill hauls—confirm the destination street at the top.
• Metro de Valparaíso: Scenic coastal line to Viña del Mar and beyond.
• On foot: The best way to string murals, cafés, and viewpoints into one perfect day—just carry water and take it slow.

DIY Street-Art Walk in Valaparaiso

1. Start: Plaza Aníbal Pinto → climb Calle Cumming.
2. Detour to the piano steps on Pasaje Beethoven (snap the obligatory shot).
3. Meander along Calle Templeman & Calle Almirante Montt (Concepción/Alegre).
4. Coffee stop on a terrace with polisomy views of stairways criss-crossing like ribbons.
5. Continue to Cerro Bellavista via Calle Ferrari → follow Museo a Cielo Abierto map plaques; each mural has a title & artist.
6. Exit near Ascensor Espíritu Santo (if running) or loop back through quiet residential lanes.

Photo Spots You’ll Love (And When To Go)

• Top of Ascensor Reina Victoria: Early morning for soft light and empty stairs.
• Calle Miramar terraces (Cerro Alegre): Golden hour—layers of colour and the sea beyond.
• La Sebastiana windows: Reflections + harbour = dreamy frames.
• Muelle Prat boats: Late afternoon; backlit gulls and colour-blocked hulls.
• Museo a Cielo Abierto walls: Overcast days make colours pop!

Safety & Etiquette: Quick Checklists

Street-Smart Checklist

• Keep cameras/phones stowed between shots.
• Avoid dead-end stairways you can’t see the end of.
• Stick to well-trod routes after dark (Concepción/Alegre streets with cafés).
• Split cash/cards in two spots; carry a copy of your passport ID page.
• Trust your gut—if a lane feels too quiet, backtrack.

Respectful Valpo Checklist

• Ask before photographing people or pets (even friendly street dogs).
• Keep music low in residential lanes; voices carry in the amphitheatre of hills.
• Street art is largely commission-based—don’t add your own “tag” to someone’s work.
• Pack out litter; the wind here is enthusiastic and will send napkins on adventures.

Costs & Budgeting (Ballpark Numbers)

CLP = Chilean Pesos. Cards widely accepted in restaurants/hotels; keep small cash for funiculars, tips, and corner kiosks.

Day Trips & Easy Add-Ons

Viña del Mar (Beaches & Boulevards)

• Getting there: Coastal metro, 15–20 minutes.
• Do: Stroll the seafront promenade, pick up beach snacks, people-watch.
• Vibe: Neat hedges, pale towers, polished plazas—the city’s “buttoned-up” cousin.

Casablanca Valley (Wine)

• Getting there: Join a half-day tour or rent a car/taxi for a tasting hop.
• Expect: Crisp whites, cool-climate pinots, rolling vines wrapped in morning mist.

Isla Negra (Neruda #2)

• Getting there: Bus or car south along the coast.
• Why go: A poet’s seaside cabinet of curiosities—anchors, mermaids, ship bells—plus rugged Pacific views.

What to Pack for Valpo’s Hills (Micro-Packing List)

Feet First

• Grippy sneakers (tiles + steepness + morning dew = slippery).
• Slip-ons for terraces and the beach in Viña.

Sun & Sea

• Sunscreen + hat (the ocean breeze fools you).
• Light layer for evenings; the temperature dips with the fog.

Handy Things

• Reusable water bottle (refill at cafés).
• Offline maps and a spare phone battery.
• Tiny umbrella—occasional coastal squalls happen.

12-Questions & Answers: Your Valparaíso Trip FAQ

How many days do I need in Valparaíso?

Two full days let you ride the funiculars, explore Cerro Concepción/Alegre, tour the port, and visit La Sebastiana without rushing. Add a third day for Viña del Mar, Casablanca wine country, or Isla Negra.

Is Valparaíso safe for solo travellers?

Yes, with normal big-city awareness. Stay on busier lanes, avoid isolated stairways at night, keep valuables tucked away, and use taxis/ride-hailing for late-evening uphill returns.

What’s the best time of year to visit?

Late spring to early autumn (October–April) is warm and breezy, with long golden evenings. Summer weekends can be busy; weekdays feel more local. Winter brings moody skies and fewer crowds—great for photography.

Which funiculars should I prioritise?

Ascensor Concepción for history, Reina Victoria for the classic view, and Artillería for huge harbour panoramas. If one’s closed for maintenance, another is usually a short walk away.

Where should I base myself—on the hills or down in the Plan?

If you’re here for street art, cafés, and views, stay on Cerro Concepción or Cerro Alegre. If you want quick access to the bus terminal/markets, the Plan (plateau) is practical but less charming.

Do I really need to visit La Sebastiana?

If you enjoy quirky interiors, sweeping viewpoints, and a peek into Pablo Neruda’s life, absolutely. The audio guide brings the rooms to life, and the setting alone is worth the climb.

Can I see Valparaíso and Viña del Mar in one day?

You can, but it’s a lot. If time is tight: spend the morning on Valpo’s hills, grab the coastal metro to Viña for a seaside lunch and a beach walk, then return for sunset in Cerro Alegre.

Where are the best photo spots for street art?

Follow Calle Templeman, Almirante Montt, and the stairways weaving between Concepción and Alegre. For large-scale pieces, head to Cerro Bellavista’s Museo a Cielo Abierto.

Is street art legal in Valparaíso?

Commissioned and permitted works are embraced; random tagging isn’t. Enjoy the murals like an open-air museum and leave the painting to the artists who’ve been invited to create.

What local dishes should I try?

Seafood galore (reineta, congrio, ceviche), chorillana for a share-plate splurge, oven-baked empanadas, and a classic pisco sour. For dessert, helado or a generous slice of tres leches.

How do I get from Santiago’s airport to Valpo without fuss?

Taxi or shuttle to Pajaritos bus terminal (closer to the airport than downtown), then frequent buses to Valparaíso’s Terminal Rodoviario. From there, taxi or ride-hail up to your hotel’s nearest top-of-hill street.

What should I do if a street dog decides to adopt me for the afternoon?

Enjoy the company, keep snacks in your bag (feeding can cause squabbles), and don’t lead them into traffic. They’re part of the city’s fabric—many are well-known “locals” kindly watched over by businesses and neighbours.

Have you been to Valparaiso?
Are there any other things to do in Valparaiso that you’d recommend?