Wadi Rum Desert in Jordan Travel Guide: Memories from Visiting the Valley of the Moon

I had heard the desert held a certain magic, but it wasn’t until I went there myself that I understood what people meant by that. Wadi Rum is a place that echoes with laughter by day and where you hear the void of the desert by night. It’s a place that matts your hair and stains your cheeks orange with dirt, but leaves you overwhelmingly happy at the end of the day. It’s a place where the earth glows red under the sun, and where you can gaze up the cylindrical spheres that twinkle in the midnight sky. It’s a place that T.E. Lawrence (better known as Lawrence of Arabia) described in his notes as “vast, echoing and God-like”, and it’s a place that I hope I can one day return to.

Things to Do, See, Eat, Drink & Experience in Jordan

While my time in the desert felt like a mere passing, here are a few of my favourite moments:

Off-roading in the back of a pick-up truck

With scarves wrapped around our heads and sunglasses to shield our eyes from the sand, we hopped in the back of a Toyota pick-up truck and began our journey into “The Valley of the Moon”. Our first few days in Jordan had been spent exploring the ancient Greco-Roman ruins of Jerash, communing with nature in the Dana Nature Reserve, and reaching the Lost City of Petra, however, this, the wild untamed desert, felt like the Jordan I had been looking for all along.

That day I ate my lunch with the iconic view of “The Seven Pillars of Wisdom”; the rock formation looked monstrous in the distance, however, I wouldn’t realize the sheer scale of the towering rocks until our driver was speeding into the desert with no roads – just rocks – to guide his way.

While the wind carried the sound of Arabic music and ululations from our caravan across the desert, for our group it was one of those silent journeys where we just marvelled at the magnitude of our surroundings and wondered how we even ended up here.

Hiking the dunes of Wadi Rum

Once we reached the sandy dunes, our tour guide Mohammad was the first one to hop out of the truck and take his shoes off. “You want to climb to the top?”

The dunes were steep but we were all ready to unleash our inner Lawrence of Arabia. Accepting his challenge, we scrambled out of the truck pulling socks, sandals, and running shoes off our feet. Since the sun had already begun its descent, the sand felt cool between our toes.

We raced each other to the top kicking up red sand and sinking our heels as we vied for the summit. I have never seen a group of travellers so giddy to be in the desert. It felt like our own playground; one where we could prance, roll downhill, and get sand in our pockets, hair and ears.

Watching the sunset

After the thrills of off-roading and running through the desert, our driver pulled over just as the sun was beginning to set. I don’t get to catch a lot of sunsets, but this one was the kind where you put down your camera and watch the colours change before your eyes until a veil of darkness shrouds the landscape.

Dancing and feasting with Bedouins

At last, we arrived at our own private camp nestled in the canyon. Paper-bag lanterns lined the entrance and led to a common area where rugs covered the ground, and sofas and pillows invited us to grab a spot close by the fire. Though the sun had already set, the day’s activities were far from over. Our Bedouin camp keepers got the night going with traditional songs so lively they beckoned us out of their seats. We tried our best to imitate our new found friends as they bounced, clapped, and got tricky with their footwork, before finally settling on a dance circle around the fire. A great way to work up our appetite!

Later that evening we had a zarb, which is a Bedouin style barbecue. Our meal of lamb, chicken, potatoes and vegetables, had been cooked all day in a hot coal oven buried under the desert sands. When the food was ready, a bell rang across the camp and our group went out to see the unveiling of the evening’s meal. Sand was brushed away, blankets were pulled off, and the lid was lifted to reveal a tiered barbecue grill holding an exquisite dinner.

The evening was capped off with a smoky fire, a few rounds of shisha, and hot cups of mint tea (and maybe a few drinks) as we chatted and watched the stars appear in the night sky.

Riding a Camel at Sunrise

After a night spent camping in the desert, we woke up to the sound of a herd of camels grumbling outside our camp; these other worldly creatures would be our transportation to the main Captain’s Desert Camp where breakfast was being served.

While I tried to keep my distance from the camels (aren’t camels known for spitting at innocent bystanders?), our Bedouin guide got affectionate with his desert beast, stroking its head, scratching its chin, and even giving it kisses.

This early morning ride allowed us to see the desert in a different light. Our afternoon journey had been one filled with dramatic shades of persimmon, burnt orange and dusty reds, however, the morning revealed paler hues of pink and lavender which gave the desert valley a completely different feel.

My time in the Jordanian desert felt all too brief. I wish I’d had more time to wander through the canyons, hike even steeper dunes, and learn to brew the perfect cup of sweet mint tea, but I guess that gives me a reason to return one day.

Have you ever camped out in the desert?
Is Wadi Rum on your bucket list?

For more Jordan posts, check out:

Destinations in Jordan, because there’s more than just Petra

Petra: Journeying into the Lost City

Exploring Petra and Wadi Musa

A Night in the Dana Biosphere Reserve

Planning Your Wadi Rum Adventure: Tips, Traditions & Advice for a Desert Adventure

📌 Wadi Rum At A Glance: Quick Facts

• Location: Southern Jordan, 60 km east of Aqaba
• Best base: Wadi Rum Village, gateway to the desert
• Getting there: 1 hour by taxi/car from Aqaba, 4 hours from Amman or Petra
• Entry fee: 5 JD (covered by Jordan Pass)
• Famous for: Martian landscapes, Lawrence of Arabia, UNESCO status, stargazing, Bedouin culture

🗺️ Planning Your Wadi Rum Experience

Wadi Rum isn’t an ideal DIY destination—here’s why:

• The desert is wild and unmarked; you’ll need a local guide or driver.
• Most visits are via organized tours (day trips or overnight camping).
• Tours range from rustic, family-run to luxury “glamping.”
  You can choose between jeep tours, camel rides, hiking, and rock climbing—or a combo!

🏕️ Choosing a Camp: Rustic, Eco, or Glamping?

Types of camps:

• Traditional Bedouin camps: Simple tents, shared bathrooms, communal meals around a fire. Friendly, authentic, and affordable.
• Eco-camps: Solar-powered, low-impact, usually set in remote corners. Great for the sustainably minded.
• Martian domes / luxury tents: Instagrammable “bubbles” or domes with ensuite bathrooms, real beds, and panoramic desert views. Splurge if you’re after a romantic stay or special occasion.

Booking tips:

• Book direct with a camp or use trusted local agencies (read reviews!).
• Ask about included activities: Meals, sunset jeep tours, sandboarding, camel rides.
• Most camps offer pick-up from the Wadi Rum Visitor Centre.

photo credit: Dustin Main

🏞️ Top Activities in Wadi Rum: What to Do (and Not Miss!)

1. Jeep Tours
The classic way to cover serious desert ground. Expect adrenaline-filled rides over dunes, stops at ancient petroglyphs, and views of natural rock bridges like Burdah or Um Fruth. Guides will point out locations from “Lawrence of Arabia” and share Bedouin stories.

2. Camel Treks
No Wadi Rum experience is complete without a slow, swaying camel ride—bonus points if you wake up early for sunrise. Pro tip: Wear long pants and bring a scarf (camel fur is scratchy and desert mornings are chilly!).

3. Desert Hiking & Rock Climbing
From casual scrambles up red dunes to multi-pitch climbs for serious adventurers, the landscape is a natural playground. Try a hike to Lawrence’s Spring, or tackle the canyons with a local guide.

4. Stargazing
With almost zero light pollution, Wadi Rum is one of the best places in the world for astronomy. Most camps offer telescopes or stargazing walks after dinner. In summer, you may catch the Milky Way streaking overhead.

5. Sandboarding
Feel like a kid again! Many camps have boards to borrow—slide down powdery dunes at sunset for the ultimate Instagram reel.

6. Cultural Encounters
Learn about Bedouin traditions:

• Try your hand at weaving or traditional coffee-making.
• Watch a zarb meal being unearthed from its sandy oven.
• Sit by the fire, sip mint tea, and listen to your hosts tell stories under the stars.

🍽️ Eating & Drinking in Wadi Rum

What’s on the menu?

• Zarb: The star dish! A Bedouin barbecue cooked underground; layers of lamb, chicken, potatoes, and carrots slow-roast for hours.
• Mansaf: Jordan’s national dish—lamb, rice, and fermented yoghurt sauce, sometimes served at special occasions.
• Salads & mezze: Expect lots of fresh tomatoes, cucumbers, hummus, and flatbreads.
• Sweet mint tea: Served constantly and always with a story.
• Coffee: Bedouin coffee is strong, spiced, and served in tiny cups.

🎒 What to Pack for Wadi Rum

Sample 2‑Day, 1‑Night Itinerary

When to Go & Weather Realities

Budget Breakdown (Per Person, Mid‑Range Trip)

Ethical & Practical Tips for Wadi Rum Travelers

• Support local Bedouin families: Book tours and camps run by locals; your money goes directly to the community.
• Respect the environment: Wadi Rum is a protected area. Leave no trace, avoid picking plants or leaving trash.
• Dress modestly: Jordan is conservative; light, loose clothing that covers shoulders and knees is respectful (and sun-safe!).
• Tipping: Always appreciated but not mandatory. 1-3 JD per day for guides is a good guideline.