A Charming Tea House in Insadong Exploring Traditional Seoul, South Korea

While I am currently travelling through Malaysia (I can’t believe I’ve already been on the road for half a month!) this is a sneak peak at a little cafe I found in Seoul during my last few days in Korea.

Sometimes you just come across a handful of new places you could see yourself frequenting right before you are scheduled to leave town, and that was the case with this cute little cafe.

The first thing I liked about this place? Its name:

Moon Bird Does Think of Only the Moon

Now isn’t that poetic? Or perhaps something got lost in translation, but I like to think it’s the former.

I previously wrote about a traditional tea house in Seoul (Shin Old Tea House) that I really enjoyed visiting. While that particular tea house was what you would expect from a traditional establishment – low tables, floor seating, and dim lighting – Moon Bird Does Think of Only the Moon surprised me its twist on the tea house experience.

While we were still in a hanok, a traditional Korean building, the inside was quirky and you couldn’t help admiring all the little details that make up this place: gardening tools, newspaper clippings, faded old photographs, oil lamps, drawings, and the names of previous customers written all over the walls.

Old fashioned oil lamps and decor in the traditional Korean teahouse in Insadong

We couldn’t figure out exactly what flavour of tea we were drinking, but the aromas were of winter spice, and the little rice cakes were the perfect accompaniment.

If you’re looking for a new place to frequent in Seoul, Korea, or even if you are looking for a place to visit during your trip there, I highly recommend Moon Bird Does Think of Only the Moon!

Tips for Sipping at Moon Bird Does Think of Only the Moon

Finding an address in Seoul’s warren-like back alleys can feel like a scavenger hunt. And this tea house is no exception.

Getting There Without the Goose-Chase

1. Start at Anguk Station (Line 3, Exit 6).
   Walk straight past the stone wall of Unhyeongung Palace for about 120 metres until you see the giant paintbrush sculpture that marks Insadong-gil, the main pedestrian drag.

2. Turn left into Insadong-gil.
   Ignore the temptation to duck into every calligraphy shop (for now) and stroll until you spot the Starbucks with its famously Hangul-only sign. That’s your landmark.

3. Veer right into the first side-alley after Starbucks.
   The alley is narrow—just wide enough for two people and a line of kimchi pots—and unmarked by English signage. Halfway down you’ll pass a boutique selling hanbok-inspired linen dresses.

4. Look up for the crescent-moon sign.
   The tea house hides behind a low wooden gate with “달새는 달만 생각한다” hand-painted on raw timber. Ascend three stone steps and slide the door; the bell overhead announces your arrival in the softest of chimes.

GPS co-ordinates: 37.574501, 126.985277
Naver/ Kakao Map search term: 달새는달만생각한다

What to Order (Beyond the One-Page English Menu)

The staff keep an English menu handy. But it condenses twenty-plus infusions into about six “house specials.” If you want to branch out, memorise (or screenshot) the following handful of Korean names.

Prices hover between ₩7 000 and ₩10 000. But remember each cup is essentially a small pot, refilled with hot water at no extra charge.

Tea-House Etiquette 101

• Shoes Off, Slippers On: If you choose a floor-cushion room, leave shoes in the rack by the threshold. The staff will hand you quilted house slippers when you pad to the restroom.

• One Voice, Softly: The acoustic expectation sits halfway between a library and an indie cinema pre-show. Locals murmur; phones remain pocketed.

• No Tipping Required: Korea’s tipping culture is basically non-existent. A simple “감사합니다!” (gamsahamnida = thank you) and a small bow suffice.

• Don’t Re-Steep Without Asking: Staff gladly add hot water, but they view the act as preserving flavour balance; wave discreetly instead of helping yourself from the service kettle.

• Wall Graffiti Has Rules: Customers are encouraged to leave love-notes on plaster sections only (never on exposed timber). Grab a blunt-tipped pencil from the counter.

Pairing Bites: Rice-Cake Decoder

• Injeolmi (인절미): Chewy, dusted in roasted soybean powder—nutty and not overly sweet. Pair with citrus-forward yuzu tea.

• Songpyeon (송편): Half-moon shape stuffed with sesame-honey; available only near Chuseok (mid-autumn). Fantastic with the earthy ssang-hwa-cha.

• Hobaktteok (호박떡): Pumpkin-infused, bright orange rectangles—kid-friendly. Excellent alongside the tart maesil plum tea.

Seasonal Magic & When to Go

• Late March – Early April: Plum-blossom season. Ms. Kim adorns tables with tiny glass vials of white petals; the cafe’s maesil tea moves like hotcakes.

• Mid-May: Buddha’s Birthday lantern festival spills into Insadong at night; detour after your tea for photogenic paper lantern tunnels.

• Early September: Fresh persimmon sweets debut; try them with nutty daechu jujube tea.

• December: Coal briquette heater installed in the centre room, imbuing the air with faint smoky nostalgia—worth bringing mittens just to cradle hot ceramic cups.

Here is a little video we made of our outing:

Have you ever come across a place you like just as you’re leaving town?