The Isle of Mull, Scotland: Wildly Beautiful and Completely Underrated

The Scottish Highlands are, simply put, starkly beautiful. From the rugged, looming mountains to the grassy glens and murky lochs shrouded in mystery, it’s no wonder this region is so highly sought after by visitors.

When I first set out to visit the highlands I, like many others, chose to head directly to the Isle of Skye. Not to say its remarkable reputation is unfounded – I was left in awe of its otherworldly vistas and spellbound by its mythical history after visiting for only three days – but Skye isn’t the only island in the Inner Hebrides worth visiting.

The slightly smaller and lesser-known Isle of Mull took me by complete surprise, and I haven’t stopped raving about this underrated gem since visiting last summer.

The Island in a Nutshell

For a relatively small island, Mull’s landscape varies wildly: the West side of the island is dominated by steep cliffs and rocky shore, while the East is softer with lush greenery. The coastline stretches over 300 miles and is rife with rugged bays, sea caves, pristine beaches, and cascading waterfalls.

Tobermory, the charming capital, is characterised by its idyllic harbour-front locale and brightly painted buildings. It’s a placid and picturesque village with little other than a museum, whisky distillery, restaurants and shops, and acts as a great base from which to explore the island.

Things to Do, See, Eat & Experience on the Isle of Mull

For the adventurous and outdoorsy, there are a number of walks and hikes across the island, which vary in duration and difficulty. Ben More – one of the highest munros in the Inner Hebrides – stands at 3,169 feet, and can be climbed in a span of 7 or 8 hours. With a steep ascent and boggy and rocky terrain, it’s a challenging climb, but the 360-degree panoramic view from the summit is breathtaking (weather dependant, of course).

Duart Castle dates back to the 13th century, and is the ancestral home of one of Scotland’s oldest clans: The MacLeans. It’s open from May to October, with the castle grounds and tearoom free to visit, and a small entry fee to tour the interior.

Unspoiled beaches abound on Mull – beautiful stretches of white and golden sand with clear blue, turquoise and emerald-toned seas. Some beaches – like the popular Calgary Bay are easily accessible, while others are more secluded, requiring a short walk or 2 hour hike to reach. Fidden is known for its pink granite outcrops and and spectacular sunset views, and Traigh Gael is one of the most hidden beaches on the island – you’re almost guaranteed to have the place to yourself.

Wildlife is plentiful on and surrounding Mull; between April and October, whale watching tours run frequently, and Minke Whales, Bottlenose Dolphins and Basking sharks can be spotted.

Bird watching is popular, and the island is often touted as the best place in the UK to see white-tailed and golden eagles. During the summer months, puffin colonies can be seen breeding on Staffa – a nearby uninhabited island accessible by ferry or boat tour.

Sample the delicious farm-to-table food

Getting there: Mull’s serene surroundings make you feel as though you’re a world away from Edinburgh, but it’s actually not too far, and getting to the island is fairly simple.

Ferries to the island depart daily from Oban, which is a two hour drive from Glasgow, or three from Edinburgh. Once on Mull, it’s quick a 40 minute drive to Tobermory from the ferry terminal in Craignure.

Getting around: Renting a car is advised as public transportation is infrequent and expensive.

Where to Stay: I stayed at Sheiling Holidays campground – which is a great budget option near the ferry terminal, and I also stayed in Tobermory at the Tobermory Youth Hostel, which is ideally located on the main street. Check this website for a list of additional accommodation options, including bed and breakfasts, self-catering cottages, and hotels. 

Have you been to the Isle of Mull?
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Mull Trip Guide: Routes, Ferries, Hikes & Food (So You Can Just Go)

You already know Mull is wildly beautiful. Here’s the practical, confidence-boosting bit so you can plan a smooth trip. Think sea eagles, secret coves, surprise rainbows, the works.

The Ferry Rhythm (So You Don’t Miss the Boat)

• Main gateway: Oban → Craignure (CalMac). Crossing ~45 minutes. Booking ahead is smart in summer. Arrive ~30–40 minutes before with a booked car; foot passengers have more wiggle room.
• Alternative: Lochaline → Fishnish (shorter, handy if you’re already up north in the Highlands).
• Standby hack: If your preferred time is sold out, join the standby lane early; cars often get waved on as no-shows shuffle the deck.
• Seasick prone? Nibble ginger biscuits, sit low and central, eyes on the horizon.

If You Have 1–3 Days

One perfect day (west-coast taster): Craignure → Salen (coffee) → Calgary Bay (picnic + beach walk) → Dervaig (tiny village detour) → Tobermory for late lunch + harbour stroll + distillery tasting → back to Craignure.

Two days (add boats and cliffs): Day 1 as above. Day 2 drive south to Fionnphort for a Staffa & Treshnish Isles cruise (puffins late spring–early Aug) or a wildlife-watching day (minke, dolphins, eagles).

Three days (stretch and breathe): Hike part of the Ben More horseshoe if weather’s kind, or pick a coastal section near Langamull. Add Duart Castle either en route from or back to the ferry.

Pocket Checklist Cheat Sheet

At-a-Glance Day Plan (Tobermory Base)

Wildlife Calendar (What’s Likely, When & Where)

Walks That Deliver Big for Little Effort

• Aros Park Loops (easy, 1–3 km): Forest, waterfalls, a mirror-still lochan and sneaky views back to Tobermory.
• Langamull Beach (easy-moderate, ~3 km return): Soft trails to a pale-sand bay with Skye glimpses on a clear day.
• Calgary Art Trail (easy, ~2 km): Woodland sculptures + natural frames over the bay.
• Ben More (hard, 7–8 hrs): Only if weather is generous and you’re hill-ready; bog, boulder and brilliance.

Hill safety: check MWIS or the Met Office mountain forecast; tell someone your plan; carry layers, map, headlamp, snacks.

Eat & Sip: A Mini Food Map

• Tobermory:
  • Cafe Fish — day-boat shellfish, harbour-front views (book early).
  • Fisherman’s Pier van — classic fish & chips; harbour picnic bench heaven.
  • Tobermory Bakery — pies, cakes, decent coffee.
  • Tobermory Distillery — small, atmospheric; pick up a bottle for drizzly nights.
• Island Producers:
  • Isle of Mull Cheese (Sgriob-ruadh) — peek into the cellar; order grilled cheese with farm chutney.
  • Ninth Wave (near Fionnphort) — a destination dinner celebrating island bounty (fixed menus; reserve).
• Van Wisdom: Keep a tenner cash for honesty boxes and farmers’ stalls—eggs, jams, honeycomb pop up where you least expect them.

Where to Stay (by Vibe)

Price & Perks Cheat Sheet

Isle of Mull Travel FAQs: Plan the Perfect Scottish Island Escape

The Isle of Mull is wildly beautiful. Packed with dramatic landscapes, wildlife encounters, historic sites, and cozy foodie moments. Here are the most common traveler questions to help your trip.

When is the best time to visit the Isle of Mull?

Spring through early autumn (April–October) is ideal for clear views, wildlife sightings, and open attractions. Puffins arrive in May, wildflowers blanket the hills by June, and September brings deer rutting season. Winter is much quieter—great for solitude, but many sites close and ferries run less frequently.

How do I get to the Isle of Mull?

Most travelers reach Mull via the CalMac ferry from Oban to Craignure, which takes about 45 minutes. It’s wise to book your car space in advance during summer, but foot passengers have more flexibility. Alternatively, you can take the Lochaline–Fishnish ferry if you’re already up north in the Highlands.

Do I need a car to explore the island?

Yes, a car makes exploring much easier. Public buses exist but run infrequently and can be costly. With a car, you can reach hidden beaches, hiking trails, castles, and wildlife spots at your own pace.

How long should I stay on Mull?

Two to three days is perfect for a good mix of coastal drives, wildlife cruises, and hikes. In a single day you can see highlights like Calgary Bay, Tobermory, and Duart Castle. Add extra days if you want to hike Ben More or take boat trips to Staffa and the Treshnish Isles.

Is it easy to spot wildlife on Mull?

Absolutely. Mull is one of the best places in the UK to see white-tailed and golden eagles, often soaring above Ben More. Puffins nest on nearby Staffa from May to August, and you can spot dolphins, basking sharks, and minke whales on boat tours between April and October.

What are the top things to do on the island?

Climb Ben More for epic views, wander Tobermory’s colourful harbour, visit Duart Castle, relax at Calgary Bay, or take a wildlife cruise to see puffins and whales. Don’t miss Aros Park for easy walks, or Langamull Beach for a quiet coastal escape.

What should I pack for a trip to Mull?

Layers and waterproof gear are essential—Mull’s weather can flip from sunshine to sideways rain in minutes. Bring sturdy shoes for boggy trails, midge repellent in summer, binoculars for wildlife spotting, and a torch for dark rural nights. A thermos and snacks are handy between villages.

What’s the food scene like on Mull?

Small but impressive! Cafe Fish in Tobermory serves fresh, boat-to-table seafood, while Ninth Wave offers hyper-local fine dining. Don’t miss Tobermory Bakery for sweet treats and the classic fish & chips van by the harbour. Local cheese, honeycomb, and preserves are tasty souvenirs.

Where should I stay on the island?

Tobermory is the best base for first-timers with walkable shops, eateries, and ferry connections. Calgary and Dervaig are quieter and perfect for beach lovers. Craignure is convenient for early ferries, and Fionnphort is ideal for puffin boat trips. There are options for every budget, from hostels to boutique B&Bs.

Is hiking on Mull suitable for beginners?

Yes! There are easy coastal and forest trails like Aros Park loops and Calgary Art Trail. Ben More is a more challenging full-day hike requiring hillwalking experience and good weather. Always check forecasts, tell someone your plans, and carry proper gear.

How’s the weather on Mull?

Unpredictable! You can experience “four seasons in one hour”, so dress in layers and pack a reliable rain shell. Summers are mild (15–20 °C), while spring and autumn can be cool and breezy. Even on sunny days, wind off the water can make it feel chilly.

Any insider tips for first-time visitors?

Book ferries and accommodation early in summer, bring cash for honesty boxes, and start wildlife cruises early in the day for calmer seas. Keep binoculars handy at all times—you never know when a sea eagle or dolphin will make a cameo. And don’t rush Mull; slow days here are the best ones.