The Scottish Highlands are, simply put, starkly beautiful. From the rugged, looming mountains to the grassy glens and murky lochs shrouded in mystery, it’s no wonder this region is so highly sought after by visitors.
When I first set out to visit the highlands I, like many others, chose to head directly to the Isle of Skye. Not to say its remarkable reputation is unfounded – I was left in awe of its otherworldly vistas and spellbound by its mythical history after visiting for only three days – but Skye isn’t the only island in the Inner Hebrides worth visiting.
The slightly smaller and lesser-known Isle of Mull took me by complete surprise, and I haven’t stopped raving about this underrated gem since visiting last summer.
The Island in a Nutshell
For a relatively small island, Mull’s landscape varies wildly: the West side of the island is dominated by steep cliffs and rocky shore, while the East is softer with lush greenery. The coastline stretches over 300 miles and is rife with rugged bays, sea caves, pristine beaches, and cascading waterfalls.
Tobermory, the charming capital, is characterised by its idyllic harbour-front locale and brightly painted buildings. It’s a placid and picturesque village with little other than a museum, whisky distillery, restaurants and shops, and acts as a great base from which to explore the island.
Things to Do, See, Eat & Experience on the Isle of Mull
For the adventurous and outdoorsy, there are a number of walks and hikes across the island, which vary in duration and difficulty. Ben More – one of the highest munros in the Inner Hebrides – stands at 3,169 feet, and can be climbed in a span of 7 or 8 hours. With a steep ascent and boggy and rocky terrain, it’s a challenging climb, but the 360-degree panoramic view from the summit is breathtaking (weather dependant, of course).
Duart Castle dates back to the 13th century, and is the ancestral home of one of Scotland’s oldest clans: The MacLeans. It’s open from May to October, with the castle grounds and tearoom free to visit, and a small entry fee to tour the interior.
Unspoiled beaches abound on Mull – beautiful stretches of white and golden sand with clear blue, turquoise and emerald-toned seas. Some beaches – like the popular Calgary Bay are easily accessible, while others are more secluded, requiring a short walk or 2 hour hike to reach. Fidden is known for its pink granite outcrops and and spectacular sunset views, and Traigh Gael is one of the most hidden beaches on the island – you’re almost guaranteed to have the place to yourself.
Wildlife is plentiful on and surrounding Mull; between April and October, whale watching tours run frequently, and Minke Whales, Bottlenose Dolphins and Basking sharks can be spotted.
Bird watching is popular, and the island is often touted as the best place in the UK to see white-tailed and golden eagles. During the summer months, puffin colonies can be seen breeding on Staffa – a nearby uninhabited island accessible by ferry or boat tour.
Sample the delicious farm-to-table food
Fresh seafood is harvested from the island’s clear waters, including mussels, crabs, langoustines and salmon, and Cafe Fish in Tobermory is one of the best restaurants on Mull to sample it. Fresh and locally sourced seafood is their specialty – shellfish is delivered to the restaurant daily from their private fishing boat, and all other fish is provided by local fisherman. You’ll find everything from whole lobsters to rich fish stew and seared scallops gracing the menu here.
Ninth Wave provides an incredible 3, 4 or 5 course fine dining experience, with a daily-changing menu featuring fresh local ingredients. Everything on the menu is hyper-local: various herbs, fruits and vegetables are picked from their kitchen garden and herbarium, and over 70 types of greens and flowers are grown on 7 acres of ‘edible landscape’ located nearby. Island delicacies abound on the menu, such as Mull highland beef, Fionnphort venison, and raw Iona honeycomb.
Isle of Mull Cheese is a small working dairy farm open to visitors. You can take a self guided tour of the farm, check out the underground cheese cellar, or have lunch in their homely cafe.
Head to Tobermory Bakery for homemade cakes and pastries, and don’t miss the renowned fish & chips from Fisherman’s Pier van at Tobermory’s harbourfront.
Essential Information for Visiting
Getting there: Mull’s serene surroundings make you feel as though you’re a world away from Edinburgh, but it’s actually not too far, and getting to the island is fairly simple.
Ferries to the island depart daily from Oban, which is a two hour drive from Glasgow, or three from Edinburgh. Once on Mull, it’s quick a 40 minute drive to Tobermory from the ferry terminal in Craignure.
Getting around: Renting a car is advised as public transportation is infrequent and expensive.
Where to Stay: I stayed at Sheiling Holidays campground – which is a great budget option near the ferry terminal, and I also stayed in Tobermory at the Tobermory Youth Hostel, which is ideally located on the main street. Check this website for a list of additional accommodation options, including bed and breakfasts, self-catering cottages, and hotels.
Have you been to the Isle of Mull?
Or would you like to visit?
Mull Trip Guide: Routes, Ferries, Hikes & Food (So You Can Just Go)
You already know Mull is wildly beautiful. Here’s the practical, confidence-boosting bit so you can plan a smooth trip. Think sea eagles, secret coves, surprise rainbows, the works.
The Ferry Rhythm (So You Don’t Miss the Boat)
- Main gateway: Oban → Craignure (CalMac). Crossing ~45 minutes. Booking ahead is smart in summer. Arrive ~30–40 minutes before with a booked car; foot passengers have more wiggle room.
- Alternative: Lochaline → Fishnish (shorter, handy if you’re already up north in the Highlands).
- Standby hack: If your preferred time is sold out, join the standby lane early; cars often get waved on as no-shows shuffle the deck.
- Seasick prone? Nibble ginger biscuits, sit low and central, eyes on the horizon.
If You Have 1–3 Days
One perfect day (west-coast taster): Craignure → Salen (coffee) → Calgary Bay (picnic + beach walk) → Dervaig (tiny village detour) → Tobermory for late lunch + harbour stroll + distillery tasting → back to Craignure.
Two days (add boats and cliffs): Day 1 as above. Day 2 drive south to Fionnphort for a Staffa & Treshnish Isles cruise (puffins late spring–early Aug) or a wildlife-watching day (minke, dolphins, eagles).
Three days (stretch and breathe): Hike part of the Ben More horseshoe if weather’s kind, or pick a coastal section near Langamull. Add Duart Castle either en route from or back to the ferry.
Pocket Checklist Cheat Sheet
| Item | Why It Helps | Use It When |
|---|---|---|
| Waterproof shell + over-trousers | Four seasons in one hour is real here. | Boat decks, beach squalls, Ben More gusts. |
| Midge repellent (Smidge or similar) + head net | Summer midges adore still, damp evenings. | Sunset picnics, woodland trails, loch-side camps. |
| Binoculars (8×42 sweet spot) | Eagles soar high; dolphins pop fast. | Pull-outs on B8073, boat bows, cliff tops. |
| OS Map 375 / offline maps | Signal dips outside towns. | Single-track detours, trailheads that hide. |
| Sturdy shoes (waterproof) | Bog trots are a Mull specialty. | Ben More, Calgary’s dunes, farm tracks. |
| £1/£2 coins + contactless | Mixed payment world. | Parking meters, van fish & chips, honesty boxes. |
| Thermos + snacks | Few cafés between villages. | Windy viewpoint lunches, ferry queues. |
| Small torch/headlamp | Rural dark is dark. | Late walks from pubs, campsite runs. |
At-a-Glance Day Plan (Tobermory Base)
| Time | Focus | Where | Tiny Tip |
|---|---|---|---|
| 08:30 | Harbour wake-up | Tobermory pier → lighthouse path | Scan for otters along the rocks; bring binoculars. |
| 10:00 | Coastal roll | B8073 to Calgary Bay | Pause at the clifftop pull-ins; keep wheels off verge. |
| 11:00 | Beach time | Calgary Bay | Explore the Art in Nature woodland trail behind the dunes. |
| 13:00 | Lunch | Tobermory (Cafe Fish / bakery) | Book Cafe Fish ahead in summer; bakery for speedy pies. |
| 14:30 | Castle & clan | Duart Castle (via Salen/Craignure) | Free to roam grounds; interior is a small fee—worth it for views. |
| 17:00 | Golden hour | Aros Park or Tobermory hill viewpoints | Aros has easy loops and mirrored loch reflections. |
| 19:00 | Simple supper | Fisherman’s Pier van (if open) or pub | Eat at the harbour wall; gulls have opinions—guard your chips. |
| 21:00 | Sunset watch | Tobermory harbour or back to Calgary | West coast glows linger; bring the midge spray. |
Wildlife Calendar (What’s Likely, When & Where)
| Month(s) | Likely Sightings | Best Areas | Tiny Tip |
|---|---|---|---|
| Apr–Jun | White-tailed eagles nesting; otters | Loch na Keal, Sound of Mull | Early morning = calm water = otter ripples. |
| May–Aug | Puffins breeding | Staffa & Treshnish Isles | Stay low and still; give birds right of way. |
| May–Oct | Minke whales, dolphins, basking sharks | Offshore wildlife cruises | Overcast days can be better for spotting dorsal fins. |
| Sep–Oct | Red deer rut (on mainland Morvern; audible on Mull) | Quiet glens | Keep distance; use long lenses. |
| Year-round | Golden eagles | High ridges around Ben More | Scan skyline for a steady, V-shaped soar. |
Walks That Deliver Big for Little Effort
- Aros Park Loops (easy, 1–3 km): Forest, waterfalls, a mirror-still lochan and sneaky views back to Tobermory.
- Langamull Beach (easy-moderate, ~3 km return): Soft trails to a pale-sand bay with Skye glimpses on a clear day.
- Calgary Art Trail (easy, ~2 km): Woodland sculptures + natural frames over the bay.
- Ben More (hard, 7–8 hrs): Only if weather is generous and you’re hill-ready; bog, boulder and brilliance.
Hill safety: check MWIS or the Met Office mountain forecast; tell someone your plan; carry layers, map, headlamp, snacks.
Eat & Sip: A Mini Food Map
- Tobermory:
- Cafe Fish — day-boat shellfish, harbour-front views (book early).
- Fisherman’s Pier van — classic fish & chips; harbour picnic bench heaven.
- Tobermory Bakery — pies, cakes, decent coffee.
- Tobermory Distillery — small, atmospheric; pick up a bottle for drizzly nights.
- Island Producers:
- Isle of Mull Cheese (Sgriob-ruadh) — peek into the cellar; order grilled cheese with farm chutney.
- Ninth Wave (near Fionnphort) — a destination dinner celebrating island bounty (fixed menus; reserve).
- Van Wisdom: Keep a tenner cash for honesty boxes and farmers’ stalls—eggs, jams, honeycomb pop up where you least expect them.
Where to Stay (by Vibe)
| Base | Best For | Why You’ll Like It |
|---|---|---|
| Tobermory | Foodies, first-timers, car-free amblers | Walkable harbour, cafés, distillery, Aros Park next door. |
| Craignure/Salen | Early/late ferries, practical hubs | Efficient jump-off for loops north or south. |
| Calgary/Dervaig | Beach bums, sunset chasers | West-coast glow, quiet nights, close to Langamull. |
| Fionnphort | Boat-trip lovers | Staffa/Treshnish departures nearby; big-sky seascapes. |
| Wild camping/cabins | Stargazers with leave-no-trace chops | Dark skies; respect croft land, follow signs, use campsites when possible. |
Price & Perks Cheat Sheet
| Budget Range | Typically Includes | Worth-It Upgrades | Save More By |
|---|---|---|---|
| ££ (self-catering) | Cottage/hostel, your own breakfasts | Sea-view window, log burner | Shopping in Oban before ferry; batch-cooking. |
| £££ (B&B) | En-suite room, Highland breakfast | Harbour-front address | Shoulder season (Apr/Oct) rates. |
| ££££ (boutique/hotel) | Design rooms, on-site dining | Balcony over the bay | Mid-week stays, direct booking perks. |
| Tours (wildlife/Staffa) | Boat seat, skipper commentary | Smaller boat w/ fewer guests | Morning sailings; bring your lunch. |
Awesome place! Thanks Ashley, for sharing this useful information.
You’re welcome, Coralie!
I love your photos! I’ve been reading a lot about the Inner and Outer Hebrides lately and they look stunning. I completely agree that they are underrated yet, sound like fun!
Thanks, Elizabeth 🙂 It’s definitely an underrated region in Scotland, especially the Outer Hebrides – which I’m dying to visit!
‘Nice write up Ashley! I haven’t yet been to the Isle of Mull but I’ve been to the Isle of Skye and other parts of Scotland, many times. The last time that I went to Scotland, I had planned to go to the Orkney Islands sadly, the last ferry would have left the day before we wanted to arrive. In October!
Ah well! Hurrah for Scotland!
Thanks Victoria! Such a shame you weren’t able to make it to Orkney! That’s another place high on my Scotland travel wish list.
Beautiful place! Need to remember it next time I’m nearby 😉 Your photos are great! Cheers!
Thank you! 🙂 It’s definitely worth a visit!
Beautiful island I was born in of An and grew up in Mull 60 years ago and I still yearn for that amazing island my memories will be with me forever. Hope to go and visit at least one more time 😀
Thanks for such a great article on Mull. I’ve not come across much related to it when looking at Scottish itineraries for our upcoming trip. When I started looking into it more though, it seems that this little-mentioned island is actually home to some stunning sights and amazing places. The problem is, now we’ve got to try and fit it into our packed itinerary!!!