Where to Eat in Edinburgh, Scotland: Old Town Restaurant Guide

Wondering where to eat in Edinburgh after a busy day of sightseeing! Well, we’ve got you covered with this restaurant guide to Edinburgh’s Old Town!

Where to eat in Edinburgh

Sightseeing in Edinburgh‘s Old Town is easy – dominated by a striking hill-top castle and royal palace, historic cathedrals and beautiful medieval architecture, every winding street is a reflection of the city’s eerie and fascinating past.

Dining in Old Town, however, can be a bit of a challenge. For those looking to avoid the inundation of chain restaurants and over-priced pub grub, a little prior research can go a long way.

This list covers most bases from budget-friendly restaurants to renowned fine-dining establishments, and a few cafes and bakeries thrown in for good measure.

Without further ado, here’s our foodie guide sharing where to eat in Edinburgh, Scotland!

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1) Ting Thai Caravan

Ting Thai Caravan started as a small pop-up restaurant during the 2012 Fringe Festival – now, it’s a permanent and popular fixture in the student-dominated area near Bristo Square.

With communal seating and queues sometimes stretching down the street, it’s always bustling and often crowded, but the food is consistently delicious and extremely affordable.

The menu is chock-full of Thai favourites along with coconut beer batter prawns, dried Thai beef jerky, and other inventive offerings.

Address: 8-9 Teviot Place (second location at 55-57 Lothian Road)

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2) Civerinos

Nestled amongst the tourist-laden eateries near the Royal Mile is Civerinos: a casual restaurant serving traditional Italian street food with a modern twist.

Classic family recipes and simple, fresh ingredients set Civerinos food apart, and nothing showcases this more than their pizza.

A made-to-order sourdough base with quality toppings, like buffalo mozzarella, sliced Italian spicy sausage, and their signature slow-cooked tomato sauce – it’s easily some of the best pizza in Edinburgh.

Address: 5 Hunter Square (second location at 49 Forrest Road)

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3) The Devil’s Advocate

The Devil’s Advocate has one of the best locales in Edinburgh, hidden along Advocate’s Close just off the Royal Mile.

Formerly a Victorian pump house, it’s now a contemporary restaurant & bar with a seasonal Scottish influenced menu and an extensive whisky, wine and cocktail selection.

Remnants of the past are visible in its exposed stone and brick walls, and the industrial-style lighting and large backlit whisky shelf add a modern flair to the bar area.

Address: 9 Advocate’s Close

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4) Daika Kurdish Grill House

Daika’s menu boasts a range of Middle Eastern flavours and specialties such as lamb tashreeb (a casserole of lamb and fresh naan soaked in a sauce of onions, peppers and tomato), a smorgasbord of hot and cold mezze dishes, and incredibly flavourful charcoal barbecue kebabs.

The desserts are equally as tempting as the main dishes: rosewater sorbet, Turkish delight and ice cream spiced with cardamom and Persian saffron, to name a few.

Their outdoor shisha terrace is one of my favourite spots in the city, overlooking Victoria Street and the Grassmarket.

Address: 3 Johnston Terrace

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5) Mother India

Often touted as one of Edinburgh’s best Indian restaurants, Mother India serves classic Indian dishes tapas-style.

Portion sizes allow for 3 to 4 dishes per person, which is ideal for sharing and sampling an array of flavours from their varied and lengthy menu.

Address: 3-5 Infirmary Street

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6) Söderberg

Located in Edinburgh’s modernized Quarter Mile, Söderberg (formerly Peter’s Yard) is an artisanal Swedish bakery serving up freshly baked bread, light breakfast and lunch fare, delectable pastries and made-to-order sourdough pizzas.

Their cardamom buns alone are reason enough to visit – try one and thank me later.

Address: 27 Simpson Loan (plus 6 more locations across Edinburgh)

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7) The Witchery by the Castle

The Witchery is a subtle reminder of Edinburgh’s gruesome history – its name comes from the nearby site on which hundreds of women were burned at the stake, accused of practising witchcraft.

Macabre history aside, the 16th-century building boasts an opulent, gothic-style dining room, with jewel-toned tapestries and walls adorned with intricately carved oak panels.

The menu is rife with Scottish delicacies: Oban oysters, locally raised beef, and smoked salmon from the cold waters of Loch Duart.

Address: 352 Castlehill

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8) Mary’s Milk Bar

You might already be familiar with Mary’s Milk Bar; it’s been featured in Buzzfeed a few times, and it’s not uncommon to see queues snaking out the door and down the street on a sunny day.

The Buzzfeed hype is well deserved though – the gelato is exceptionally rich, and handmade every morning with fresh and ever-changing ingredients.

The traditional flavours are just as tasty as some of the more unique and outlandish flavour combinations, like dill, soda bread & whisky, or spicy Sriracha almond.

They also offer hot cross bun gelato sandwiches, doughnut ice cream sandwiches, and (their now infamous) hot chocolate gelato floats.

Address: 19 Grassmarket

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9) Aizle

The concept behind Aizle is unique: there’s no set menu – instead, you’re presented with a list of twenty-or-so locally sourced, seasonal ingredients which serve as a base for the 5-course dinner to follow.

You simply pay a fixed price and enjoy an unexpected and immaculately presented combination of the quality, farm-to-table ingredients.

Address: 38 Charlotte Square

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10) Lovecrumbs

This quirky ‘cake-only’ cafe near the Grassmarket is a great spot for a sweet treat and a cup of tea or artisan roast coffee.

An antique piano, vintage furniture and mismatched crockery accentuate its eccentric decor, and a large wooden wardrobe displays the daily offering of cakes.

Innovative ingredients and complex flavour combinations characterize their baked goods; lavender & black pepper cake and chocolate, orange & pistachio tart are only a few of the enticing flavours you’re likely to find on any given day.

Address: 155 West Port

What are your favourite places to eat in Edinburgh?

Practical Foodie Tips for Enjoying Edinburgh’s Old Town

You’ve now got a solid hit-list of restaurants to hit up. Before you tighten your kilt and start feasting, here’s the intel locals share with their visiting pals. In other words, it’s everything you need to know about WHEN to go, HOW to order and WHAT else to look for. So, you can eat like you belong here.

Timing Is Everything – Plan Around “Half-Six”

Edinburgh’s kitchens keep civilised hours. Lunch service usually runs 12:00-14:30, then many independent spots shut until dinner at 17:30 or 18:00 (often written on signs as “half-five” or “half-six”). Pop in at 15:00 expecting a full menu and you may find only scones and coffee. Conversely, late-night food beyond pubs is scarce; most restaurants take last orders by 21:00-21:30, even on weekends. If you’re catching an evening ghost tour or theatre show, aim to sit down by 18:00—your stomach will thank you when the North Sea winds pick up.

Reserve, Even on Weeknights

Old Town dining rooms are small: historic closes simply weren’t built for sprawling floorplans. Aizle, The Devil’s Advocate and Mother India can book out a fortnight ahead, especially during the Fringe (August) and Hogmanay (New Year). Phone or use the restaurant’s own website; many still don’t list tables on big booking platforms. If you’re walk-ins by nature, have a back-up nearby—rolling down the Royal Mile hungry at 19:00 can end in overpriced mediocrity.

Walk-in safe bets: Ting Thai Caravan (fast turnover), Civerinos Slice hatch on Forrest Rd, and Lovecrumbs (afternoon only).

Understanding Menus: Larder, Burnt Creams & Neeps

Scottish chefs pepper menus with words that raise eyebrows if you’ve never crossed Hadrian’s Wall:

When in doubt, staff are friendly and love explaining provenance—it’s half the fun.

Drinks Etiquette: Whisky Flights & Not-So-Horrible Wine Duty

Whisky
Order a single (25 ml) if you have plans later, a double (50 ml) if you’re settled in. Ask for a wee jug of water; adding a few drops “opens up” aroma and no one will judge. For a guided intro, The Devil’s Advocate does curated flights: five regional styles from grassy Lowland to smoky Islay.

Gin
Scotland is amid a craft-gin boom. Look for local labels like Edinburgh Gin, Lind & Lime (Leith) or Isle of Harris (infused with sugar-kelp). They’re usually served in goblets with Fever-Tree tonic and botanical garnish.

Beer & Cider
Campervan, Stewart Brewing and Vault City (sour-beer specialists) appear on taps across Old Town. Thistly Cross makes the crowd-pleasing local cider.

Wine
Brits gripe about alcohol duty but Edinburgh’s bistros work around it with keenly priced bottles from small European vineyards—expect mark-ups but not London pain.

Budget-Friendly Bites Beyond Chain Pubs

• Lunch deals: Many high-end restaurants (e.g., The Witchery, Angels with Bagpipes) offer 2-course lunch menus for roughly £20. Same ambiance, half the price.

• Early bird / pre-theatre menus: Available 17:00-18:30, saving 20-30 %. Ideal if you’ve booked a 19:30 underground tour.

• Meal deals at bakeries: Söderberg and Mimi’s Little Bakehouse discount pastries after 16:00.

• BYOB evenings: Hanam’s allows “Bring Your Own Bottle” for a small corkage fee—handy if you’ve picked up something special at Royal Mile Whiskies.

Dietaries: Veggie, Vegan & GF Are Easy Here

Haggis’ reputation aside, Edinburgh is one of the UK’s plant-forward cities. Several venues on the list carry vegan menus (Ting Thai and Civerinos both do plant-based versions of their signatures). Look out for:

• The Auld Hoose – legendary vegan nachos, huge portions.

• Paradise Palms – vegetarian soul-food & tiki bar vibe.

• Sugar Daddy’s – 100 % gluten-free bakery for cupcakes and brownies.

Most kitchens understand celiac requirements; just mention it at seating.

Breakfast Culture: Skip Hotel Buffets, Go Local

Scottish breakfast can be a revelation—think runny-yolk fried egg topped with Stornoway black pudding, streaky bacon, tattie scones and toast. Favourites within staggering distance of the Castle:

• Loudons Fountainbridge – Full veggie or meat breakfasts, plus cinnamon-roll French toast.

• Salt Horse Bar – Weekend brunch with sourdough bacon rolls and serious coffee.

• Southern Cross Café – Good-value fry-up right on Cockburn Street.

If you’re pressed for time, grab a flaky sausage roll from The Piemaker on South Bridge—open from 07:00, beloved by students and taxi drivers.

Market Day & Street-Food Pop-Ups

• Edinburgh Farmers’ Market – Every Saturday 09:00-14:00 on Castle Terrace. Local cheeses, venison burgers, fresh langoustines and award-winning brownies under the Castle’s shadow.

• Pitt Market (Leith) – Street-food containers, live music, rotating craft-beer taps. Check social feeds for seasonal hours; worth the 20-minute bus ride.

• Fringe Festival Pop-Ups – August sees George Square Gardens transform into foodie central with global street-food stalls (bao, raclette, Ghanaian stews) and cocktail yurts. Arrive early evening to dodge queues.

Tipping & Paying the Bill

Service charge isn’t typically added unless you’re in a large group or fine-dining merchant. Locals leave about 10 % in cash (round up the card if preferred). At busy pubs order and pay at the bar; table service is the minority. Contactless cards are accepted almost everywhere—keep a £10 note for the odd cash-only scone stand.

Weather-Proofing Your Meal Plans

Old Town’s cobbles glisten more often than not. If the Haar (sea mist) rolls in and terraces lose their charm, duck into atmospheric alternatives:

• The Bow Bar – cosy whisky snug with cask ales. Bring pies from next-door Piemaker.

• Makars Gourmet Mash Bar – comfort bowls of butter-rich mash topped with venison stew or veggie haggis.

• The Baked Potato Shop – cult hole-in-the-wall for jacket potatoes the size of small planets.

Edinburgh’s Old Town is compact enough that you can breakfast on Royal Mile porridge, lunch on Thai street-food, break for whisky in a medieval close, devour pizza near the Uni, then finish with a cardamom bun and a midnight dram—all on foot. Arm yourself with these timing tricks, ordering hints and local specialities. And you’ll eat beyond the tourist traps without blowing the whisky budget.

Slàinte mhath—here’s to your tastiest trip yet!