Wilderness, the town that really lives up to its name in South Africa!

Wilderness: [wil-der-nis] a wild and uncultivated region, as of forest or desert, uninhabited or inhabited only by wild animals. I have to admit, I came to Wilderness based on the name alone. I needed a destination to help break up the trip from Port Elizabeth to Cape Town, and with a name like that, the destination practically jumped off the map.

Maybe it’s because we came here with no expectations, maybe it was the wonderful hospitality shown to us by our new friends at the Wild Farm, or maybe it was the combination of lush hiking trails and wide open beaches. Whatever it was, Wilderness turned out to be one of my favourite places of my South Africa backpacking trip.

Now let me show you how I spent my days in this little wild slice of paradise:

Canoeing and hiking the Giant Kingfisher Trail

On our first morning in Wilderness, Sam and I decided we would go on a little canoeing and hiking excursion. We made our way down to Eden Adventures, where we paid 280 rand (roughly $22 USD), for a canoe to paddle up the Touw River.

I had been on a double kayak with Sam before (a very wobbly experience!) so I was a bit worried about ending up in the water on this outing, however, the river was incredibly calm and the canoe also offered some extra stability.

At 10 in the morning we were the only people out on the water, save for the company of a few ducks and birds who seemed undisturbed by our paddling. We travelled upstream until we couldn’t go any further, and then we left our canoe on a pebbly beach. This is where we got on the Giant Kingfisher Trail to continue the journey on foot.

From there, we set into a lush forest that yet again shifted my perception of South Africa. Prior to travelling here I assumed that the landscape would be quite dry and barren, yet here I was surrounded by moss covered trees, a carpet of ferns, and the sounds of chirping birds. Could South Africa be any more diverse?!

The trail eventually gave way to a wooden footpath that we continued to follow until we could hear the sounds of a waterfall ahead. This is when we realized we probably should have packed a bathing suit because there was a beautiful pool of water just above the waterfall and a few hikers were already enjoying a swim.

I have to say, this was my favourite day in Wilderness! We didn’t do anything extraordinary, but sometimes all you need is a relaxed day in nature.

Following the train tracks to Kaaiman’s Grotto

The following day we decided to explore Kaaiman’s Grotto – a place that locals couldn’t quite find the words to describe, yet insisted that we needed to see.

It’s a cave…but it was a restaurant…and it was abandoned after the train tracks were blocked…but now it’s a homeless shelter…and an interesting man lives there…and so do a whole bunch of other people – it’s super arty, you should really go visit!

We weren’t quite sure what to expect of this remote cave-restaurant-shelter that can only be reached on foot, but curiosity go the best of us and we decided to go see for ourselves.

Sam and I followed the tracks until we reached a section were the mountain had collapsed, then we went around and reached the mouth of dark tunnel carved into the face of the rock. This is where I hummed a little tune as I walked into the darkness, reliving memories of my train derailment inside a Thai tunnel and hoping I wouldn’t encounter any bats, rats, or strange characters.

And then we saw it – the magnificent cave-restaurant-shelter that people had struggled to put into words.

Ahhh, that’s what they meant!

A Quirky Adventure

I approached the cave tentatively and that’s were I met Clifford, the man responsible for all of this. He was sweeping the floor and tidying up when I arrived, but he offered to show me around, so I followed him through the maze he has created. After showing us around, we sat down to chat and he told us the story of how this all came to be.

He told me that God brought him to this place to help the homeless, so he built a shelter to help those who have fallen on hard times and to assist them as they try to get back on their feet. His only rules being: no drugs, no alcohol, and you must actively search for work.

Inside The Cave

The cave had single rooms and even family rooms with bunk beds. There was a living area, a small kitchen, and a room for prayer which he called ‘Father’s Room’. At the time I visited there was one guest staying there, and a second had recently moved out. It was certainly unlike any shelter I had ever seen before.

I asked him where he found all the things inside the cave – the dolls on the coffee tables, the furniture in the bedrooms, the masks, plumes, butterflies and flowers – and again he told me that God had provided every item inside the cave. Some items came as donations from his brother’s church, others he found unwanted on the side of the road, and a few were gifts that former cave dwellers had brought back.  He told me that when he first came here there was nothing, so he started collecting sea shells to try and turn this into a beautiful place where the homeless would feel valued and special. (There was even an article written about him on the Washington Post if you’re interested.)

Heading Back

After that chat it was time to get going, so we left a donation and continued on. (If you do decide to hike out to Kaaiman’s Grotto, do keep in mind that Clifford allows curious tourists like me to visit because they help keep this unique shelter running).

The train tracks then led to an old bridge (a bit rusty and a little unnerving if you’re afraid of heights), and then continued on through the dolphin’s eye (see it in the rocks?) and towards Victoria Bay which is a popular surf spot.

Enjoying simple living at The Wild Farm

When we weren’t sightseeing, we were enjoying the laid-back vibes over at The Wild Farm.

I know when choosing accommodations most of us like to be right in the heart of the village/town/city so that we won’t miss any of the action, but in this case being a little far removed proved to be the right decision.

This old dairy farm turned hostel is perched on a hilltop and boasts incredible views of the ocean below. Samuel and I got a little log cabin complete with an en suite bathrooms and a piping hot shower. The early settlers would have been proud!

The staff was super friendly so we spent most of our evenings on the property either enjoying beers in the common area or having a proper braai (South African barbecue) for dinner. They also had the cutest little Cavalier King Charles Spaniel as a pet, so it didn’t take very long for me to adopt her as my own. This is a bit of blurry photo, but you can see that she even won Sam over and he is a self-professed cat lover.

Wilderness Fast Facts: More Information For Visiting This Garden-Route Hamlet

Before you plan a walk out to Kaaiman’s Grotto: the disused railway line that this route follows is the old Outeniqua Choo-Tjoe line, closed since flood damage in 2006 and formally shut down in 2010. As of 2026, the line is under active rehabilitation by a new operator working toward reviving steam-train service between Knysna and George in phases. The operator has stated that the railway property is now considered private land and that only authorized contractors are permitted access to the line and adjacent areas during this work. Rules on foot access can change as restoration work progresses, so check locally in Wilderness village before setting out, rather than assuming the tracks are open the way they’ve traditionally been.

Navigating the Village Core

• Village Green: Post office, Spar grocery, coffee roastery, weekend craft stalls. Everything radiates from this traffic circle.
• Leila’s Lane: A 300-m pedestrian alley with surfboard rentals, smoothie stands, and buskers.
• Watsonia Avenue: The closest thing to a night-life strip, with acoustic sets at Cocomo and gin tastings at Blue Olive. Most places wind down by 23:00 — Wilderness runs on sunrise hikes, not late nights.

Five Signature Ecosystems in One Postcode

Where to Stay: Three Different Bases

Beyond a hilltop farm stay, Wilderness has options for nearly every travel style. For a splurge or honeymoon base, Views Boutique Hotel & Spa sits directly above Wilderness Beach with panoramic Indian Ocean views from every room, an on-site spa with a hammam and vitality pool, and a restaurant guests consistently single out for its ocean-view setting — a five-minute walk from Wilderness National Park. For families or river-lovers, Fairy Knowe Hotel has occupied the same spot on the banks of the Touw River since the 1920s, with canoe rental on site, a tennis court, a pool, and family rooms built to sleep two adults and two children — plus an 800-year-old Yellowwood tree on the property’s own nature trail. For a central, budget-friendly base without a car, Wilderness Backpackers on George Road puts you within walking distance of the beach, the village green, and the local market, with a female-only dorm option for solo travelers who want that extra layer of comfort.

Sample 3-Day Itinerary

For the second morning’s flight, book directly with a certified operator rather than showing up on spec — flights are weather-dependent and slots fill fast in peak season. A 20-minute Adventure Tandem Paragliding Flight from the Map of Africa or Sedgefield launch site is a genuine highlight for first-timers, no experience needed, and includes photos of the flight. If you’d rather stay on solid ground but still want an adrenaline day, the half-day Canyoning at Wilderness trip through the Kaaimans River gorge — hiking, swimming, and optional cliff jumps of up to 13 metres with a certified guide — suits couples and small groups looking for something more physical than a beach day.

Budget Breakdown (per person, mid-season)

Year-Round Events Calendar

Getting Around Without Wheels

Wilderness, South Africa: First-Timer FAQ (Garden Route Nature, Lagoons & Trails)

When is the best time to visit Wilderness?

Wilderness is lovely year-round, but September–April delivers warm beach days, easy paddles, and good paragliding conditions; May–July is cooler, quieter, and brings a shot at whale sightings. It’s a maritime climate: mild winters (10–18°C) and breezy summers (18–28°C). Pack a light rain shell — Cape storms roll in fast.

How do I get to Wilderness and where is it exactly?

Wilderness sits about 15 km east of George on South Africa’s Garden Route, Western Cape. Fly into George Airport, then connect by bus or taxi (roughly 30–40 minutes). Overland, it’s on the N2 between Mossel Bay and Knysna — a natural stop between Port Elizabeth/Gqeberha and Cape Town.

Should I stay in the village or up on the ridge?

Both work well. The village core means cafés, craft stalls, and quick beach access on foot. Hilltop or ridge stays trade that walkability for big-sky views and sunset braais. If you won’t have a car, confirm shuttle options with your accommodation or budget for short taxi rides.

What are the must-dos for a first visit?

• Canoe the Touw River and hike the Giant Kingfisher Trail to the waterfall (bring swimmers).
• Beach time on the long sugar-sand strand, with paragliding from the Map of Africa if you’re up for it.
• If access allows it on the day, the walk out toward Kaaiman’s Grotto and Victoria Bay — see the note above on current railway access before planning around this one.

How does the canoe-and-hike combo day actually work?

Rent a canoe at Eden Adventures (typical hires run about 3 hours). Paddle the calm Touw River upstream, beach the canoe at the turnaround, then pick up the Giant Kingfisher Trail on foot. Forest boardwalk gives way to ferny shade, which gives way to the swim pool above the falls. Go early for still water and birdsong.

What should I know before walking to Kaaiman’s Grotto right now?

This is worth reading before you plan your day: the walk follows the old, disused Outeniqua Choo-Tjoe railway line, which has been closed since 2006 and is currently undergoing active rehabilitation work aimed at eventually reviving train service. The line’s operator has declared the railway property private land during this work, with access restricted to authorized contractors. Whether casual foot traffic to the grotto is still tolerated can change as the restoration progresses, so ask locally in Wilderness village — your accommodation or a local tour operator — before setting out, rather than assuming this is business as usual. If you do go and it’s currently accessible, go in daylight, wear proper shoes, respect the residents, and consider leaving a small donation, since visitor curiosity has traditionally helped keep the shelter running.

Is Wilderness only beaches, or is there real forest and wildlife?

It’s a five-biome surprise in one postcode: coastal dunes, estuarine lagoons, Afro-temperate forest (yellowwoods, tree ferns), fynbos heath (proteas, sunbirds), and montane cliffs with caves and gorges. You can birdwatch, paddle, hike, mountain-bike singletrack, or just roll out a picnic blanket and listen to the wind.

How much should I budget per day?

Mid-season, per person: shoestring travelers spend around R535 (about US$29) on a dorm bed, a shared canoe, one sit-down meal, market snacks, and the local bus. Comfort travelers spend around R2,505 (about US$135) on a private room, a paraglide or guided activity, dinner and drinks, and shuttles. Canoe hire (roughly R150–R280 depending on setup) is great value; paragliding runs from around R1,300.

Do I need a car to enjoy Wilderness?

No, but it’s convenient. Without wheels: Go George buses run in daylight, Intercape covers regional hops, taxis handle trailheads, and locals will often help with a lift along the Hoekwil ridge road. If you’re planning sunset shoots or night beaches, arrange a ride back in advance.

Where should I eat or braai?

Lean into simple and fresh: beachside cafés for breakfast, Island Lake picnics, and a braai at your lodge or hostel in the evening (staff often join in). For local flavor: Blue Olive for craft gin and tapas, BeeJuice at the old station for coffee, and a Hoekwil deli for cake with a ridge view.

What do I pack for a Wilderness long weekend?

A dry bag for lagoon paddles, reef-safe sunscreen, a wide-brim hat, a light rain shell, trail shoes or sandals, a sarong, a plug-in mozzie mat, a power bank, and offline maps. Swimmers for the falls, layers for breezy sunsets, and a small first-aid kit for trail nicks.

Is Wilderness good for solo travelers and families?

Yes. Solo travelers tend to enjoy the relaxed social scene, day hikes that feel safe by daylight, and hostel braais. Families get calm lagoons, short forest walks, beach time, and easy wildlife moments. As always, supervise kids near water and cliffs, and check current access before heading out toward the old tracks or the grotto.

Final Packing List

• Lightweight rain shell (Cape storms roll in fast)
• Reef-safe sunscreen and a wide-brim hat
• Dry bag for lagoon paddling
• Multi-use sarong — beach towel, picnic blanket, bus pillow
• Plug-in mozzie mat for hostel rooms
• Offline trail map (Maps.me Garden Route layer)
• An open schedule: Wilderness rewards wanderers, not box-tickers

Have you every visited a place based on its name alone?
How did it turn out?

For more info on travel in South Africa visit Travel Now Now.