Eating My Way Through Chiavenna’s Bresaola Festival In Italy!

Ask me to name the first Italian meals that come to mind and I’ll list off pizza, pasta, and risotto. Maybe veal parmigiana if you insist I include some meat in there. But bresaola? I had no idea what that was until I arrived in the town of Chiavenna.

When I hopped on the train bound for the Italian Alps, all I knew was that there would be a food festival taking place. What kind of food? I wasn’t entirely sure. It wasn’t until I arrived in town on the morning of the festivities that I discovered this festival – Dì de la Brisaola – was all about the bresaola. In other words, every carnivore’s dream (or every vegetarian’s nightmare depending on who you talk to)!

What Exactly Is Bresaola?

So what is bresaola? Well, at first glance it looks a lot like prosciutto. It is an air-dried meat that has been aged for a few months until it becomes hard and takes on a dark red colour.

What sets it apart from prosciutto is that bresaola is made from beef, whereas prosciutto is made from pork. Also, bresaola is very lean and you’ll hardly find any fat on it, whereas prosciutto generally leaves a nice thick strip of fat for a little extra flavour. The bresaola tradition originates in Lombardy right on the footsteps of the Alps, so I was definitely in the right place at the right time.

Eating Our Way Around Chiavenna

Since food festivals are all about eating, Sam and I made it our mission to eat at every bresaola stand in town. We grabbed our little maps which highlighted 14 stands spread out across Chiavenna and began the hunt for meat.

Although the bresaola was tasty, I have to admit that my favourite part of this little food adventure was the destinations it took us to. Sampling stations had been set up inside restaurants and courtyards, grottos and shop fronts. Each location had its own unique flavour, not only in terms of how the meat tasted but also in terms of presentation and layout. It was a great way to get to know the town without focusing on the traditional attractions.

Along the way we got to listen to the various bands which were playing across town, with instruments ranging from xylophones to trombones and trumpets to drums. It livened the mood and got everyone excited about the day considering it was pouring rain for most of the morning.

A Hearty Lunch at Crotto al Prato

By the time lunch time rolled around Sam and I had somehow managed to visit all 14 bresaola stands in town (seriously, Chiavenna is so easy to explore on foot!) so we were feeling pretty stuffed. However, we weren’t going to turn down the opportunity to have lunch at a grotto, so we made our way to Crotto al Prato.

I thought we would be eating inside the grotto, but it turns out that it’s a little too cold to eat inside a grotto outside the summer months, so they had set up large tents outside instead.

At this point in the day the mood was very festive and the people gathered inside kept exploding into random song, clapping, and plenty of laughter – it kind of reminded me of Oktoberfest, except everyone was drinking wine and eating bresaola.

The food was hearty and the portions were large – platters full of deli meats, followed by gnocchetti bianchi, polenta, and more meat dishes. I barely made it through the starters, but the locals kept pushing through dish after dish. And that’s another thing that impressed me during this trip to Italy – seeing the Italian ability to eat, eat and eat. That takes some serious talent!

A Delicious End to the Day

By the time I hopped on the train back to Milan I was stuffed beyond belief and ready for a nap. I watched as we pulled out of the station and left the town of Chiavenna behind with the looming Alps in the backgrounds. I couldn’t have asked for a better introduction to the Lombardy region – exploring the place through its food – and I hope I get to return again, next time with an extra-stretchy pair of jeans.

Here’s a little vlog from our day in Chiavenna:

 

Tips for Experiencing Chiavenna’s Bresaola Festival Like a Local

How to Plan Your Visit: Practical Festival Tips

1. Timing Your Visit:
The Dì de la Brisaola typically takes place in early October, just as the leaves are turning gold and the air is crisp. Check Chiavenna’s tourism website for the official date—sometimes it moves around by a week or two each year.

2. Getting There:
Chiavenna is an easy day trip from Milan—just under two hours by train, with dreamy mountain views along the way. Trains run frequently, but do yourself a favour and arrive early. The town wakes up with the festival, and you’ll want to beat the mid-morning crowds for the first bites of bresaola.

3. Tickets & Maps:
Most years, the festival provides a “passport” or map that lists all the bresaola tasting stops (usually around 12–15). You buy a tasting ticket (often €10–€15) at any stand or the main information booth. This passport is your key to a self-guided food tour: simply present your map at each location, collect your sample, and rate your favourites as you go. It’s the ultimate foodie scavenger hunt.

4. Dress Code:
Casual, comfortable clothes are the way to go. You’ll be walking all over town, possibly in rain or shine (this is the Alps—weather is anyone’s guess!), so bring a rain jacket, comfy shoes, and, if you plan on eating like the locals, a pair of pants with some “give.” Trust me, you’ll need it.

5. Embrace the Slow Pace:
One of the best parts about this festival is how it encourages you to slow down and savour. Don’t rush your way through the stands! Linger in the grottos, strike up conversations with local producers, and enjoy the impromptu performances you’ll find in every square.

Getting There Cheat Sheet

What Else Can You Eat & Do in Chiavenna?

While bresaola is no doubt the star of the show, the festival is also a showcase for other Alpine delicacies and local products. Look out for:

• Sciatt: Golden, crispy cheese fritters—addictive little balls of happiness.
• Polenta taragna: Creamy buckwheat polenta, often served with gooey melted cheese.
• Gnocchetti bianchi: Tiny, pillowy dumplings, the local answer to gnocchi.
• Local wines: Valtellina is wine country, so sample a glass of Nebbiolo or Sforzato.
• Mountain honey & cheeses: Many stands offer honey from Alpine wildflowers and tangy cow or goat cheeses.

If you need a break from eating (or just want to work up an appetite for round two!), wander the cobbled streets and check out:

• Palazzo Vertemate Franchi: A Renaissance villa just outside town with stunning frescoes.
• Waterfalls & hiking trails: Chiavenna is the gateway to Val Bregaglia—perfect for a stroll after your feast.
• Grotto tours: These ancient cellars carved into the rock are atmospheric and cool, perfect for wine and charcuterie tastings.

Why Bresaola Is a Big Deal Here (A Little Food History)

Bresaola is more than just another cured meat—it’s a slice of regional pride. Unlike fattier cousins like prosciutto or speck, bresaola’s roots go back centuries, when Alpine communities needed a way to preserve beef through the long, harsh winters. The cool, dry mountain air around Chiavenna and Valtellina made this spot perfect for slow-aging beef until it turned deep red, tender, and packed with flavour.

Today, true bresaola della Valtellina is IGP-protected (Indicazione Geografica Protetta), meaning it can only be made in this specific part of Lombardy using traditional methods. When you taste it at the festival, you’re sampling generations of know-how—every slice is paper-thin, meltingly tender, and subtly spiced.

How Locals Eat Bresaola

Want to eat like a Chiavennese? Here are some classic ways to enjoy bresaola at home or in a trattoria:

• Simple & Classic: Bresaola drizzled with extra virgin olive oil and a squeeze of lemon, finished with a handful of arugula and a sprinkle of Parmigiano Reggiano.
• On bread: In a panino with local cheese, rocket, and a dash of balsamic vinegar.
• Paired with wine: Always with a glass of red—ask for a local Valtellina Superiore.
• On a mixed antipasto platter: Alongside other Alpine meats and cheeses for a true taste of the mountains.

Fun fact: Bresaola is actually considered a healthier cured meat option. It’s high in protein, low in fat, and packed with iron—a “guilt-free” indulgence (if you don’t eat it by the kilo like I did at the festival!).

Timing the Festival Like a Local

Making the Most of Your Visit: Beyond the Festival

If you have time, stick around Chiavenna for more than just the festival day. Here are a few ideas:

• Stay overnight in a local inn or agriturismo and wake up to mountain views and a leisurely breakfast.
• Hike the Via Spluga: This ancient mule track leads from Chiavenna into Switzerland—perfect for stretching your legs after a day of feasting.
• Soak up café culture: The town’s piazzas are made for lingering over a cappuccino or aperitivo while watching the world go by.
• Join in the evening festivities: As the sun sets, music, laughter, and the scent of grilled meats fill the air. Locals sing, families gather, and the sense of community is unmistakable.

Have you ever experienced an Italian food festival?