I don’t always have a story to share along with my photos, and even though that’s the case with my rafting trip down the Li River, it’s still one of my favourite memories from my travels in China.
The Li River (Lijiang) is a popular journey in the Guangxi province; many travellers choose to cruise the length between Guilin and Yangshuo, and it’s easy to see why – the landscapes are out of this world! Karst mountains rise up from either side of the river, giving way to one of the most magical journeys in the world. The place is so spectacular that it’s actually printed on the back of the 20 Yuan notes – that’s saying something.
Sam had already cruised down the Li River on one of his previous trips to China, but because his trip had been shrouded in fog and rain, he was happy to do it all over again. We got incredibly lucky with the weather that day – the sun was out and there was hardly a cloud in sight.
After snapping a few photos of the bamboo rafts (which are really made of plastic tubes!), we hopped aboard and grabbed a seat on the wooden bench. The scenery was incredible and I had to keep reminding myself to just put the camera down and soak it in with my own two eyes. I ooo-ed and ahhh-ed and kept poking Sam on the shoulder excitedly muttering, “Can you believe this? Are you seeing this?!”…and then I fell asleep.
Not very opportune timing, but that’s what I do when I’m on a boat, or a train, or a bus, or anything that produces a rocking motion. I was shaken awake by Sam about halfway through the journey, “Are you still seeing this?”
Yup…that’s how we roll.
Planning Your Li River Trip: A Practical Guide
Whether you’re planning to replicate what we did or do it properly and actually stay awake for the whole thing, here’s what you need to know before you arrive.
Timing Your Trip
| Season | Pros | Watch-outs |
|---|---|---|
| Spring (Mar–May) | Water levels are high, rapeseed fields glow neon yellow, and morning mist gives the karst a fairy-tale vibe. | Occasional drizzles — pack a light rain shell. |
| Summer (Jun–Aug) | Lush greenery, balmy evenings, and firefly-lit strolls in Yangshuo’s back alleys. | Peak crowds and humidity; book tickets early. |
| Autumn (Sep–Nov) | Crystal-clear skies, cooler temperatures, and rice terraces turning gold. | National Day week (Oct 1–7) means price hikes and long queues. |
| Winter (Dec–Feb) | Serene river, discount rates, and the chance of a mist-blanketed landscape straight out of a Chinese ink painting. | Some raft routes pause if temperatures drop below 10 °C. |
Late May and early September are worth considering — the sweet spot between decent weather and manageable crowds.
Choosing Your Boat
Deluxe Cruise Boats (3-, 4- and 5-Star)
Duration: ~4 hours • Route: Guilin → Yangshuo
- 5-Star Luxury — Padded seats, panoramic windows, buffet lunch, fewer than 50 passengers. From approximately USD 230
- 4-Star Deluxe — Spacious deck, set-menu lunch, English commentary. From approximately USD 120
- 3-Star Classic — No-frills benches, boxed lunch, same karst views. From approximately USD 78
Best for: Starting in Guilin, wanting comfort, and being happy to share the deck with a few hundred fellow travellers and their selfie sticks.
Motorized “Bamboo” Rafts
Duration: 1–1.5 hours • Route: Xingping ↔ Nine-Horse Fresco Hill
- Cost: Approximately CNY 80 per seat (max 4 seats)
- Vibe: Closer to the waterline, fewer crowds, small motors rather than paddles — though as I mentioned, they’re plastic pipes, so we’ll suspend disbelief on the “bamboo” part.
Best for: Travellers already based in Yangshuo or Xingping who want a more intimate, close-to-the-water experience.
Yulong River Punting (Non-Motorized)
Duration: 50 min • Route: Shuiedi → Gongnong Bridge
Cost: CNY 200 per raft (fits two)
Best for: Zero engines, emerald-green water, and photogenic stone bridges. Slow travellers and anyone who genuinely wants some quiet will love this option.
How to Book
- Buy ahead in high season via official cruise portals or reputable agents — Chinese national holidays sell out weeks in advance.
- Carry your passport — staff scan it at the pier gate.
- Choose a downstream left-side seat when sailing Guilin to Yangshuo — the lighting on the karst towers is better on that side.
- Pack snacks even on luxury boats; the buffet leans carbohydrate-heavy and the coffee is instant.
- Download or screenshot your e-tickets before boarding — cell service fades between gorges.
Getting to the Starting Points
- Guilin Pier (Zhujiang Wharf): 50-minute taxi from Guilin Liangjiang Airport or 30 minutes from Guilin Railway Station.
- Returning from Yangshuo: Public bus (CNY 25) to Guilin, or high-speed train from Yangshuo Station (which is actually in Xingping — allow 20 minutes by taxi).
- Xingping rafts: Bus 618 from Yangshuo South Bus Station takes approximately 45 minutes.
- Yulong River docks: Hire an e-scooter (around CNY 30 per day) and follow the paved Ten-Mile Gallery bike path.
What to Pack
- Wide-angle lens — those karst cliffs really won’t fit in a standard phone frame.
- Dry bag — engine spray will find your souvenirs.
- Quick-dry towel — doubles as a seat cushion, scarf or impromptu picnic mat.
- Reusable cup and chopsticks — skip the single-use plastic and have a local jasmine tea instead.
- Small change — CNY 10 goes a long way as a tip if you want a photo with a cormorant fisherman.
Landmarks to Look Out For
| Kilometre Marker | Highlight | What to Know |
|---|---|---|
| 18 km | Nine-Horse Fresco Hill | Locals say nine stallions appear in the limestone if you look carefully enough — counting all nine is supposed to bring good luck. |
| 25 km | Yellow Cloth Shoal | The exact scene on the 20-yuan note. Hold the bill up against the skyline for the photo — everyone does it and it’s still a satisfying shot. |
| 32 km | Xingping Ancient Town | Cobblestone alleys, Ming-era doorways, and reportedly the best beer-fish in all of Guangxi. |
| 40 km | Snail Hill | Spirals of vegetation that genuinely resemble a giant snail shell from the water. |
Keep your camera ready — captains rarely slow down unless you ask politely. The phrase is ting yi xia, hao ma? (“Could we stop for a moment?”) — a smile helps considerably.
Travelling Responsibly
- Pack out all your trash — river currents carry litter directly into villagers’ fishing grounds.
- Skip illegal wildlife shows — monkeys on chains, snake charmers. Your spending choices matter here.
- Choose family-run guesthouses — the money goes back to the farmers whose paddies make the scenery worth coming for.
- Ride bikes rather than ATVs on the Yulong River banks — the mud tracks scar bamboo root systems that take years to recover.
What Else to Do in Yangshuo
| Activity | Why It’s Worth It | Time Needed |
|---|---|---|
| Cycling the Yulong Valley | Flat lanes, rice terraces, and villages where grandmothers still weave bamboo baskets. | Half-day |
| Moon Hill Hike | Natural arch with a 360° karst panorama at the top. Around 800 stone steps to climb. | 2 hours |
| Impression · Liu Sanjie Light Show | 600 performers on the river, directed by Zhang Yimou of Hero fame. A genuinely impressive spectacle. | Evening |
| Cooking Class in Chaolong Village | Market tour and wok skills — you’ll go home able to make a decent beer-fish. | 4 hours |
Where to Stay in Yangshuo
After your time on the river, you’ll want somewhere to actually sit down properly and soak it all in. Two options in Yangshuo that genuinely suit the experience:
- Yangshuo Mountain Retreat — Named by National Geographic as one of the world’s best ecolodges, this 32-room property sits on the Yulong River in the Ten Mile Gallery Scenic Area, surrounded by karst peaks. It was one of the first hotels in China to eliminate single-use plastics, and the restaurant is staffed by women from surrounding villages. If the whole reason you came is the landscape, this is the right base. Confirmed on Booking.com.
- Yangshuo Village Inn — A boutique guesthouse partner property near Moon Hill. More intimate and quieter than the town centre, with staff who reliably help arrange local transport, bikes and river trips. Confirmed on Booking.com with 2025–2026 reviews.
Li River FAQ
What are the best months to visit the Li River?
September to November for clear skies and cooler temperatures; March to May for dreamy mist and high water levels. Avoid the October 1–7 Golden Week crowds. Summer is lush but humid.
Cruise or bamboo raft — what’s the difference?
The Guilin to Yangshuo cruise (3- to 5-star boats, around four hours) offers comfortable seating and large windows. The Xingping motorized rafts (one to 1.5 hours) sit low to the water for a closer, more intimate experience. Yulong River punting is non-motorized and quiet.
Where do you see the 20-yuan banknote view?
Near Yellow Cloth Shoal, close to Xingping. Bring a 20-yuan note and line it up with the skyline for the classic photo.
How do I book tickets?
In high season, book ahead via reputable agents or your hotel. Always carry your passport for pier check-in and save a screenshot of your e-tickets — signal drops in the gorge.
Which side of the boat should I sit on?
On downstream Guilin to Yangshuo cruises, the left side gives you better light on the karst towers. On rafts, the front row gives you cleaner shots with less spray interference.
What should I pack beyond the basics?
A wide-angle lens, a dry bag, a quick-dry towel, snacks, and small change (CNY 10) for any tips you want to leave. A light rain shell helps with spray, especially on the rafts.
Are the bamboo rafts actually bamboo?
Most are PVC pipes shaped like bamboo and fitted with small motors — sturdy and stable, but not silent. If you want authentic hand-punted bamboo vibes, head to the Yulong River instead.
Is it suitable for children? What about motion sickness?
Yes — the river is calm and short segments suit families well. Sit mid-deck on larger boats if anyone is prone to motion sickness, and bring ginger candy just in case.
Can I fly a drone along the Li River?
Local rules change — generally you need to register, stay at or below 120 metres, avoid towns and restricted airspace, and follow any instructions from pier staff or viewpoint attendants.
How do I get to the starting points?
Zhujiang Wharf for Guilin cruises is about 30 minutes from Guilin city centre. For Xingping rafts, take Bus 618 from Yangshuo (approximately 45 minutes). For Yulong punting, hire an e-scooter or bike via the Ten-Mile Gallery path.
Any photography tips?
Shoot early or late for softer light, use a polariser to cut glare on the water, and keep a microfibre cloth handy for spray. Politely asking the captain to pause — tíng yíxià, hǎo ma? — with a smile sometimes works.
How do I travel responsibly here?
Pack out all your trash, skip any wildlife shows, choose family-run guesthouses, and stick to designated paths to protect the riverbanks and bamboo root systems.
Have you travelled down the Li River?
What were some of your China highlights?
Beautiful!! But have been in Cambodia the last week and the Chinese a hard bunch to take. A Belgian tourist next to me had remarked that she wished that photoshop had a ‘delete Chinese’ option. Not nice but a few hours of being pushed and shoved and having them shout at each other over everyone will do that…
I asked our Cambodia guide who they consider the worst tourists. The Chinese actually come 2nd. He said the Koreans are the worst. He didn’t say anything about us Canadians but everyone loves us, right? 🙂
Anyway, great photos.
Frank (bbqboy)
Absolutely stunning pictures, Li River looks incredible! It’s too bad the “bamboo” is made out of plastic – haha. I also tend to fall asleep everywhere, glad I’m not alone 😉
What a lovely trip; even though you fell asleep 🙂 With so many things to do, amazing eats and culture sights, my China highlight is definitely Beijing. I’d love to visit the Li River the next time I’m there!
I took that boat ride last year. Ended up on a boat where I was the only foreigner, but that actually made it even more fun. Didn’t get as nice photos as you though! 🙂
I have yet to make it to China but this scenery looks incredible. Some of your photos remind me a little bit of Halong Bay, Vietnam, and Vang Vieng, Laos. Someday I will make it to China and this rafting trip will definitely be on my list of things to do. It looks spectacular 🙂 And it’s nice to know if was one of your favorite China experience.
I haven’t made it to China yet, but these pictures definitely made the wanderlust stronger. Such a beautiful scenery!
I’ve done that cruise. Yangshuo is the most beautiful place I’ve ever been. The scenery was incredible. I would suggest trying out some rock climbing while you’re there. One of the highlights of my time there was renting a motorbike (ours were 100 RMB per day, which I thought was a good price) and driving to a village called Xing Ping. It was actually the place where the picture on the 20 RMB note was taken. Beyond that village is just wide open country with a couple of sketchy river ferry’s that were a blast, and some of the most jaw-dropping scenery you’ll see. Also there’s orange farms all along the road there. You can bargain for them along the way. Sorry for going on so long, but I could definitely move there in a heartbeat. I almost decided to move down there after my contract was up in Hubei Province!
You have some great photos! I loved cruising down the Li River–it was one of my highlights from my time in China, too!
That’s definitely an area of China I want to explore!
We loved the Li river and were lucky enough to see it in flood. The people along that stretch were really terrific fun. China highlights, Li River, Xian and the city wall Shanghai skyline, Yangshuo and the food everywhere especially Guilin beans.
The scenery looks stunning there! Would love to do this rafting trip one day.
We visited this part of China back in 2005 – and it looks the same. Phew. Except we didn’t have to wear the lifejackets back then 🙂
Beautiful photos. Wish I didn’t have such crappy weather when I was there (didn’t see the sun for 5 days out there). It’s still one of my favorite memories of living in China.
The photos are lovely and it all looks so warm. Sigh! It reminds me of floating down the Mekong River in Vietnam. Good times!
Oh wow! It’s so pretty! Reminds me of Ha Long Bay a bit!
I particularly like the photo comparison with the yuan note.
It looks like a wonderful experience. I may add that to my ‘China must-dos list’ 😉
We spent a few weeks around Xing Ping and Yangshuo last year and it was beautiful. And not quite as crowded as it wasn’t quite peak season. We decided against the bamboo rafts as the river was so swollen, and cycled instead. Only problem was we got caught in a torrential thunderstorm. By the time we got back the street vendors didn’t even offer us waterproof capes and just laughed as we cycled past! It was loads of fun though and the sunset over Xing Ping (where the 20RMB note picture is) was spectacular!
Not all the rafts on the Li River are made of plastic tubes. In fact I only saw, and was punted on, bamboo rafts.
Whatever the raft is made from, it is an unforgettable experience!
I recently came across your blog and wanted to say how much I enjoyed your detailed and insightful posts—especially your coverage of the Li River area. Your writing and photos really brought the experience to life!
I’m particularly interested in the motorized “bamboo” raft ride on the Li River (the section you described), and I was wondering if it’s possible to book this experience directly—without going through a full tour package.
Could you please let me know if that’s feasible, and what the usual departure times are for the rafts?
Thank you in advance, and keep up the great work on the blog!