Last year’s trip to Italy was a brief introduction to the country. I visited a total of 3 destinations – all of them in Lombardy – yet it was fascinating to see the slight variations that existed in the food, the culture, and even the dialect found within one region. SometimesĀ it felt like I was visiting a different country, even if I was just travelling a couple of hours to a neighbouring city!
I’ve already give you a few glimpses of Lombardy with my posts on Milan, Bergamo, and Chiavenna, but this post is a bit of an overview of food, sights, and activities that you won’t want to miss if you ever find yourself in Lombardy.
What to Eat in Lombardy
Aperitivo
Though it is often described as ‘happy hour’, the Milanese aperitivo is about more than just drinks.Ā The way it works is that you order a cocktail, generally somewhere around 10-15 Euros, and this gives you access to an open buffetĀ of what Italians like to refer to as ‘snacks. Now picture platters and trays filled with salads, pizza, lasagna, deli meats, ravioli, and more. Suffice it to say, the Milanese aperitivo is a meal itself, and it’s a food tradition that you have to experience at least once during your visit.
Ā
Risotto alla Milanese
I haven’t always been a fan of rice, so for a long time I avoided risotto, and boy was I missing out! When I learned that Milan was best known for a dish called Risotto alla Milanese, I knew I had to try it and the deceptively simple recipe ended up winning me over. If you’ve never tried risotto, it’s made withĀ a starchy rice that has the ability to absorb a lot of liquids, and it has aĀ creamy consistency thanks to theĀ use of cheese and butter. TheĀ Milanese recipe calls for saffron alone, and that means you end up with a relatively simple yet very flavourful dish.
Stracciatella ice creamĀ
Stracciatella is anĀ ice creamĀ flavour that originated in Bergamo. ItĀ hasĀ a milk-base and it gets its name from the thin chocolate shavings mixed into the ice cream. The flavour was created in 1962 by Enrico Panattoni, the owner of gelateriaĀ La Marianna,Ā and the place is still serving scoops of StracciatellaĀ ice creamĀ today.
Bresaola
BresaolaĀ is an air-dried meat that has been aged for a few months until itĀ becomes hard and takes on a dark red colour. At first glance, it looks a lot like prosciutto, but what sets the two apart is thatĀ bresaola is made from beef, whereas prosciutto is made from pork.Ā Also, bresaola is very lean with hardlyĀ any fat on it, whereas prosciutto generally leaves a nice thick strip of fat for a little extra flavour. The bresaola making tradition is one that originates at the foot of the Italian Alps, and if you really want to taste the best of the best, you need to swing by Chiavenna during theĀ Bresaola Festival.
Polenta e osei
If you have a bit of a sweet tooth and you’re passing through Bergamo,Ā you’ll want to try their local dessert known as polenta e osei. Translated from the local dialect it meansĀ āpolenta with birdā, and it gets its name because it looks a lot like another popular savoury dish consisting of polenta with a small bird cooked inside. (Don’t worry, the dessert only has a chocolate bird on top, so you won’t haveĀ any surprises!)
What to See in Lombardy
PalazzoĀ Vertemate Franchi
The Vertemate Franchi Palace is located inĀ Prosto di Piuro, just outside of Chiavenna.Ā The palace was built during the second halfĀ of the sixteenth-century by the brothers Guglielmo and Luigi Vertemate Franchi, who came from a very wealthy family. Touring the interior gives you a glimpse at their aristocratic lifestyle: they had their own private chapel so they wouldn’t have to pray alongside ‘commoners’, some of the rooms had spying compartments so the family could hear (and make notes of) any gossip about them, and they even had their own private vineyard within the palace walls.
Castello di Malpaga
Malpaga Castle sits inĀ Cavernago, and it was once the home ofĀ Bartolomeo Colleoni,Ā a mercenary soldierĀ who earned great wealth and great power fighting other peopleās battles. In fact, so many people were after Colleoni that he had to take a lot of precautions to stay alive:Ā he slept seated in bed so that he would be ready to leap up and fight should an intruder come in, he purposely slept in a room without a chimney (which would have been very cold!) lest someoneĀ sneak in to kill him, and he also had a group of food tasters to ensure his foodĀ handāt been poisoned.Ā It’s a really fun castle to visit if you find yourself in the vicinity.
Lake Como
When it comes to scenic destinations in Lombardy, no place is more popular than Lake Como. The lake is dotted with a series of villages along the waterfront, and then you have the looming Rhaetian Alps in the background. Lake Como has been a popular retreat for aristocrats and wealthy people since Roman times, and it’s easy to see why as it is simply gorgeous. It is also a hot-spot for celebrity sightings and today there is no resident more popular than George Clooney. Here’s a useful guide on how to travel around Lake Como.
Duomo di Milano
TheĀ Duomo is aĀ GothicĀ cathedral that took nearly six centuries to completeĀ and it is listed as theĀ 5th-largest church in the world. The exterior is covered inĀ CandogliaĀ marble, which gives it its off-white pinkish colour, and itās the most recognized landmark in all of Milan and Lombardy. What makes this cathedral extra special is that you can climb to the roof terrace with makes for some really unique shots and great panoramic views of the city.
Castello Sforzesco
Sforza Castle was built during theĀ 15th century byĀ Francesco Sforza, theĀ Duke of Milan, and it was then expanded in the centuries that followed. The castle is a massive complex locate in the centre of Milan, and is houses two very important works:Ā Michelangeloās last sculptureĀ Rondanini PietĆ Ā and the castle frescoes painted by Leonardo Da Vinci.
What to Do in Lombardy
Take an Italian cooking class
Italians know a thing or two in the kitchen, and as you’ve probably noticed in the ‘EAT’ section of this post, there are lots of dishes distinctly unique to Lombardy. As a self-proclaimed foodie, I’m of the opinion that one of the best souvenirs you can take back with you is a new recipe, and what better way to do so than by joining a cooking class?
Stay at an agriturismo
Agriturismo combines the words agriculture and tourism, and it’s a farm-style stay which can give you a more local experience in a farm setting. The history of this type of accommodation is quite interesting; starting in the 1950sĀ small scale farming in Italy became less profitable, andĀ many farmers opted to leave the countryside and move to bigger towns and cities. This resulted in many abandoned estates and farm houses, so in 1985 agriturismi were defined into law, allowing farmers to supplement their farming income by having visitors come and enjoy their holiday in rural Italy. And so a new way of vacationing was born.
So what can you expect? The agroturismo that I stayed in had all the modern conveniences you might expect from a hotel, except the property was out in the countryside and they also owned land where they cultivated vegetables for their family-run restaurant. If that sounds like your type of stay, this website can help you find agriturismi by region.
Shop Milanese fashion
Milan is considered one of the fashion capitals of the world and it ranks right up there with cities like London, New York, Paris and Tokyo. The city has a really unique street style (something I noticed from the first day I arrived), so why notĀ get some inspiration while you’re out sightseeing for the day, and thenĀ hit up the stores toĀ try something new.
Go wine tasting
If there’s one wine that Lombardy is known for, that’sĀ Moscato di Scanzo. This wine isĀ made using late harvest techniques, meaning the grapes are picked in October and then left to raisin on wooden crates. The result is a ruby red wine that’s a little bit sweet with a hint of spice. I visited the winery run by theĀ Pagnoncelli Folcieri family, however, there are numerous wineries specializing in MoscatoĀ di Scanzo around Lombardy.
DineĀ inside a grotto
Another cool thing I discovered in Lombardy is theĀ grotto (or crotto as they are called in Northern Italy). This is a type of man-made cave that keeps a relatively constant temperature throughout the year – cool in the summer, not too coldĀ in the winter. Back in the day, grottos would have been used to store items like wine, cheese, and deli meats, but todayĀ many of them haveĀ been turned into restaurants. These establishments generally focus on traditional food from the region and it makes for a pretty unique dining experience.
Lombardy Trip Planner: Tips, Routes & Travel Itineraries

Base & Bounce: Where to Sleep, Where to Day-Trip
Base | Vibe | Best For | Easy Day Trips |
---|---|---|---|
Milan | Big-city energy, design, fashion, late dinners | First-timers, nightlife, museum buffs | Bergamo, Lake Como (Como/Varenna), Pavia, Monza |
Bergamo | Medieval Upper Town (CittĆ Alta), slower pace | Foodies (stracciatella! polenta e osei), history | Milan, Lake Iseo, Franciacorta wineries |
Varenna (Lake Como) | Romantic, ferry hub, mountain views | Lake lovers, hikers, photographers | Bellagio, Menaggio triangle; Valtellina day trips |
Chiavenna | Alps foothills, crotti dining, quiet | Hikers, bresaola fans, palace hopping | Palazzo Vertemate Franchi, Splügen Pass scenery |
How Iād choose: First visit? Sleep in Milan (3ā4 nights) + 1 night on the lake or in Bergamo. Returning for round two? Split between Varenna (2ā3 nights) and Chiavenna (1ā2 nights) for slow food + mountain time.

Getting Around (Trains, Ferries & Transfers at a Glance)
Route | How | Typical Time* | Notes |
---|---|---|---|
Milan ā Bergamo | Trenord regionale | 48ā60 min | From Milano Centrale or Porta Garibaldi. |
Milan ā Como S. Giovanni | Trenord/Regionale | 40ā60 min | Walk to lakeside in 10ā12 min. |
Milan ā Varenna-Esino | Trenord | ~1:03ā1:10 | Best for the lake ātriangleā (ferry to Bellagio). |
Varenna ā Bellagio | Ferry | 15ā20 min | Car & foot ferries run all day. |
Milan ā Chiavenna | Trenord (change in Colico) | ~2:40 | Gorgeous lakeside ride. |
Bergamo ā Malpaga Castle | Bus + short walk / taxi | 30ā45 min | Check opening hours; some areas are guided-only. |
Row-by-Row Day Plans

1) Milan Icons + Aperitivo Crawl (Full Day)
Time | Do This | Why |
---|---|---|
09:00 | Duomo interior + roof terraces | Sunrise light on the spires = photo magic; shoulders covered for inside. |
11:00 | Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II espresso stop | Old-world glam, quick caffeine. |
12:00 | Castello Sforzesco courtyards + Rondanini PietĆ | Michelangeloās haunting final work; stroll into Parco Sempione after. |
14:00 | Lunch near Brera | Easy trattorie + people-watching. |
16:00 | Design or fashion fix (Brera galleries / Quadrilatero) | Peek the windows; Milanese street style is half the show. |
18:30 | Aperitivo in Navigli (or Porta Venezia) | Order a cocktail (Negroni Sbagliato if you want to go local-Milanese) and graze the buffet. |

2) Bergamo Alta Classics (½āFull Day)
Time | Do This | Why |
---|---|---|
09:30 | Funicolare to CittĆ Alta | Ride the historic cable car straight into medieval lanes. |
10:00 | Piazza Vecchia ā Cappella Colleoni | Marble lacework for days; photo heaven. |
12:00 | La Marianna scoop of stracciatella | The birthplace of the flavor; treat yourself. |
13:00 | Lunch: casoncelli or polenta taragna | Hearty Bergamasque plates (save room for dessert). |
15:00 | Walls walk (Mura Venete) | Panoramas over the lower city. |
17:00 | Polenta e osei pastry to go | Sweet āpolentaā with the little chocolate ābird.ā |
3) Lake Como Triangle Without Stress (Full Day from Milan or Lake Base)
Time | Do This | Why |
---|---|---|
08:20 | Train Milan ā Varenna-Esino | Arrive before the lake crowds. |
10:00 | Ferry to Bellagio | Classic views as you approach. |
10:30ā13:00 | Bellagio wander + gardens (Villa Melzi) | Shade, sculptures, lakefront benches. |
13:15 | Ferry to Menaggio (optional lunch) | Quieter, pastel promenade. |
15:00 | Ferry back to Varenna | Golden light on Varennaās waterfront is gorgeous. |
16:00ā18:00 | Castle climb (Castello di Vezio) or wine on the riva | Choose cardio or chairs. |
19:00 | Train back to Milan (or stay lakeside overnight) | Sunset rides along the shore are dreamy. |

4) Chiavenna + Palazzo Vertemate + Crotto Dinner (Leisure Day)
Time | Do This | Why |
---|---|---|
Late AM | Train via Colico ā Chiavenna | Alpine foothill views all the way. |
Midday | Palazzo Vertemate Franchi tour | Frescoes, secret peep-holes, and Renaissance gossip. |
Afternoon | Old-town stroll + bresaola tasting | This is bresaola country; try it simply with arugula, lemon, olive oil. |
Evening | Crotto dinner (grotto restaurant) | Natural āfridgeā caves keep wine & meats perfect; atmospheric, seasonal menus. |

Eat This Here (Fast Foodie Cheat Sheet)
City/Area | Donāt Miss | Notes |
---|---|---|
Milan | Risotto alla Milanese | Simplicity: saffron, butter, parm; often partnered with ossobuco. |
Milan | Negroni Sbagliato | āAccidentallyā sparkling Negroni with prosecco. Aperitivo staple. |
Bergamo | Stracciatella gelato | Milk-forward base with chocolate shavings. |
Bergamo | Polenta e osei (sweet) | Looks savory, tastes like party. |
Lake Como | Missoltini, lavarello | Local lake fish; grilled lavarello is approachable for everyone. |
Chiavenna/Valtellina | Bresaola, pizzoccheri | Pizzoccheri = buckwheat pasta, cabbage, potatoes, sage, melted cheese. Cozy! |
Scanzo & surrounds | Moscato di Scanzo | Late-harvest ruby dessert wine; sip, donāt chug. |

Seasonal & Crowd-Smart Planning
Season | Weather & Light | Whatās Great | Watch-outs |
---|---|---|---|
AprāJun | Mild, wildflowers, long days | Lake ferries frequent, vineyards open | Easter & late spring weekends get busy. |
JulāAug | Hot in Milan, breezy on lakes | Swim spots, long blue hours | Crowds on Como; book ferries and dinners. |
SepāOct | Harvest, crisp evenings | Wine tastings, clear mountain views | Shorter ferry timetables later in Oct. |
NovāMar | Foggy plains, quiet | Cozy crotti, museums without lines | Some lake hotels/boats on reduced hours; dress warm. |

Packing for Lombardy (Light but Lake-Ready)
- Footwear: Comfy trainers for cobbles + one nicer pair for dinner.
- Layers: Light jacket, cardigan, scarf; evenings cool on the lake even in summer.
- Rain shell: Spring and autumn showers pass quickly.
- Swim kit: Quick-dry towel + suit if youāre lake-bound.
- Outlets: Type C/F (Euro) plug; bring a compact adapter + phone power bank.
- Day bag: Fits water, sunscreen, hat, and a little room for cheese you will buy.

One-Look Itineraries (3, 5 & 7 Days)
Tight & Tasty ā 3 Days
Day | Morning | Afternoon | Evening |
---|---|---|---|
1 | Milan Duomo + roof | Sforzesco + Parco Sempione | Navigli aperitivo |
2 | Train to Varenna | Ferries: Bellagio/Menaggio | Dinner back in Milan |
3 | Bergamo Alta | Walls walk + gelato | Polenta e osei + funicolare down |

Classic Mix ā 5 Days
Day | Plan |
---|---|
1 | Milan icons + aperitivo crawl. |
2 | Day trip: Lake Como triangle from Varenna. |
3 | Bergamo deep-dive (CittĆ Alta + stracciatella). |
4 | Castello di Malpaga + countryside lunch (agriturismo). |
5 | Milan design/fashion morning, long lunch, linger in Brera. |

Slow & Savory ā 7 Days
Day | Plan |
---|---|
1ā2 | Milan (Duomo, Sforza, Brera, aperitivo). |
3 | Train to Varenna; sunset at Castello di Vezio (sleep lakefront). |
4 | Ferries Bellagio/Menaggio + garden time. |
5 | Valtellina tasting: bresaola & pizzoccheri (Colico/Chiavenna loop). |
6 | Chiavenna crotti dinner + Palazzo Vertemate Franchi. |
7 | Back to Milan; half-day Pavia or Monza if youāve got extra pep. |

Quick FAQ: Lombardy Travel Tips
Is Lake Como doable without a car?
Yes. Base in Varenna (easy train), then ferry to Bellagio/Menaggio. If you want villas off the main triangle, local buses fill gaps.
Duomo tipāskip the line or rooftop first?
Book a combined ticket and go roof first for soft morning light, then stroll the nave when itās quieter.
Whereās the best aperitivo area?
Navigli is lively and photogenic; Porta Venezia and Isola have great craft spots without wall-to-wall crowds.
Can I swim in Lake Como?
Yes in signed areas; bring water shoes (pebbly shores) and respect āno swimā zones near ferry docks.
Best souvenir that isnāt tacky?
Aged bresaola (vacuum-packed), a bottle of Moscato di Scanzo, or a little tin of saffron for Milan-style risotto nights at home.

And that’s a little glimpse of what Lombardy has to offer. With only a week there I still feel like I barely scratched the surface, but one thing is for sure: I need to get myself back to Italy for round two!
Have you travelled around Italy’s Lombardy region?
Aperitivo sounds like my kind of thing!
Same here! I only wish I had discovered it a bit earlier in my trip. š
Yay! As an American who recently moved to Sondrio(in Lombardy) to au pair, I’m super excited to see this! I’ve had an impossible time finding any blogs talking about this region even though its so beautiful. Braesola is my favorite meat here for sure. And aperitivo is so fun. Everyone just gets drunk and stuffs themselves with a million tiny plates of meats, cheeses, etc. I’m copying all your Milan and lombardy to do lists for my time here. Thanks š
That sounds like an exciting move! I hope you enjoy your year as an au pair in Italy. There are so many great day and weekend trips you can take around Lombardy – I’m sure it’ll be a lot of fun!
Stracciatella ice cream is one of my favorite, you remind my teen days. thanks
Sounds so dreamy!!!! I’d love to go back to Italy! I’d stuff myself with local wine and aperitivo! Agriturismo is something I didnt know about, but sounds amazing!
WOW! Lombardy looks incredible! How is it that I haven’t even heard much of this as a place to visit in Italy. Thank you so so so much Audrey for showing all of these places I don’t read about much online because #1 I’m in love with Italy, and #2 I want to see more of Italy that plenty miss out on! Have you been driving through the country or train or how do you get around? Great finds and guide, thanks again!
I like the food you have listed above. Very inspiring article.
Hi,
I live in the south of Lombardy, the unknown wine region of Milan, called Oltrepo Pavese. Worth a daytrip! Then there is Pavia, a nice and quiet historical city, Cremona home of Stradivarius and so much more!