One destination that’s been at the very top of our travel bucket list for a while now is Matera, and on this trip to Italy, Sam and I were determined to make it happen!
Known as “The Stone City” and “The City of Caves”, Matera is a sight to behold. The city has quite literally been dug out of the rock, and when you first view it from one of the many lookouts, you’ll feel like you’ve travelled back through time. After all, this is the third-oldest continually inhabited settlement in the world after Aleppo and Jericho, which also explains why it’s often used to film movies set in biblical times!
Located on the slope of a rocky ravine, the landscape is dominated by cave dwellings, zigzagging staircases, and early churches that hold some incredible frescoes.
We stayed in the “sassi”, which is the ancient town, and in our opinion, the best way to soak in the vibe of this place. This travel guide will give you a little taste of what Matera has to offer!

What to see in Matera
When it comes to exploring Matera, the best course of action is to ditch the map and just get lost. The city is a maze of zigzagging staircases, steep lanes, and tiny courtyards. If you walk the sassi thoroughly, you are bound to come across the major attractions without necessarily looking for them.
Our plan each day was to set out in a new direction and see where that took us.
A few cool places to visit include:

Churches with frescoes
Matera is full of rupestrian churches carved into the stone and covered in beautiful frescoes. These churches date back to the Middle Ages and there are plenty to choose from:
- Convento di Sant’Agostino
- Chiesa di Santa Maria di Idris and San Giovanni
- Chiesa rupestre di Santa Lucia alle Malve
- Chiesa rupestre di San Pietro Barisano
- Chiesa rupestre di Santa Maria de Armesis
- Chiesa rupestre di Santa Barbara
- Chiesa di Madonna delle Virtu and Chiesa di San Nicola dei Greci
- Convicinio di Sant’Antonio



These are probably more churches than you’ll be able to cover in one visit, but they’re a good place to start. Some charge admission, while others are free of charge, but they are all impressive.
Palombaro Lungo
Palombaro Lungo is a massive water cistern that sits directly under Matera’s main square. It dates back to 1846 and it supplied the townspeople with water until the advent of modern plumbing reached the sassi. Then, the cistern was almost completely forgotten, and it wouldn’t be rediscovered until 1991.

Today it’s a tourist attraction to add to your Matera itinerary! Our guide compared the cistern to an underwater cathedral, and it’s easy to see why – the walls rise up into arches, and with the water level being low, we felt tiny inside.
In order to visit, you have to enter the cistern with a guide. The cost is 3 Euros per person and the tour runs 25 minutes. You can purchase your tickets right at the gates.
Casa Grotta di Vico Solitario
Another attraction I really enjoyed in Matera was the Casa Grotta di Vico Solitario, because you can see what life in the sassi would have been like.

It’s hard to believe, but cave dwellings like this one were inhabited up until the 1950s when the government forcibly relocated the population to more modern developments in the city.
At that point, the living conditions in the sassi had become uninhabitable; poverty was rampant, families were sharing quarters with their animals, and disease was a constant threat – particularly malaria.

Today, many of the cave dwellings in Matera have been updated and upgraded for a tourist clientele with boutique hotels and cozy bistros popping up, but the reality of life in the sassi just a few decades back, would have been completely different.
The lookout points
One of the highlights of my visit to Matera was simply wandering around the town and stopping to soak in the views any time we came upon a lookout point, and there were lots of these!



There were two views I particularly loved: one was the terrace right in front of Matera Cathedral and the other was the terrace right next to the Convent of Saint Agostino. These two spots offered postcard-perfect views.

Hiking to the caves
Another activity that we had really been looking forward to was hiking in Murgia National Park.

There’s a ravine that runs just east of the Old Town and the landscape is covered in caves that beckon exploration. There’s an access point to the trail along Via Madonna delle Virtù and there’s a hanging bridge that leads you across the river.
Unfortunately, the path was closed when we visited in winter. The sign mentioned “safety reasons” – perhaps loose rock? – so we weren’t able to do this, but hopefully, it’ll reopen to the public soon!
The streets, staircases and back lanes
I’ve said it before, but I’ll say it again. Getting lost may be your best plan of action! This city is best enjoyed on foot and you’ll be surprised at every turn no matter which direction you walk in. Here are a few more photos to show off the beauty of this town.







Where to eat in Matera
Our favourite way to explore a city is through its food, and that was no different in Matera. From pastries to pastas, and cheeses to deli meats, we made sure to eat as many local dishes as possible.
Here is a list of the restaurants and bakeries we most enjoyed in Matera:
Panificio De Paolo
This is a little bakery not too far from the main square and it’s a great spot to grab breakfast. We would go here in the mornings, and in true Italian fashion, drink our coffees standing up right at the bar. They made a tasty cappuccino, but what kept us coming back were the pastries, especially the Sfogliatella, a flaky shell-shaped pastry filled with cream.
La Finestra Sui Sassi – Kappador
La Finestra Sui Sassi was the first restaurant we visited in Matera and it was a fun little introduction to Materan pasta, where we got two different dishes to share. The first was the Strascinati with sausage, red peppers and breadcrumbs, and the other dish was the Cavatelli with peas, onions and bacon – both of them delicious, but especially the one with bacon!
These two dishes would start a bit of a pasta love affair for the rest of our time in the city as we sought out different local pastas with a variety of sauces.
La Grotta de Sassi
Another restaurant that we absolutely loved was La Grotta de Sassi, which was located in a cave-like setting.
Once again, we opted for Materan pasta, ordering the Orecchiette with cardoncelli mushrooms and pork sausage, and the Ferricelli with porcini mushrooms, a cheese fondue sauce, and chopped pistachios. Both were absolutely mouth-watering and I tried to slowly savour each bite!


It was a fantastic meal that we somehow managed to follow up with two desserts: a pear and ricotta cheesecake and a chocolate lava cake.
Ristorante Nadí
We found Ristorante Nadí by chance while seeking cover from the rain, and it was a hit! Sam and I decided to order a 4-course Italian meal to share.
We ordered the Antipasto Lucano for our starter, which was a platter with a variety of deli meats and cheeses from the region. We worked our way over from soft cheeses to hard cheeses, and also sampled some deli meats that were completely new to us. We paired this with a red wine from the region.
This was followed by the primo piatto, where we ordered a sampler plate with three dishes: Cavatelli, Ferricelli, and Crapiata. We had already tried the first two pastas at the other restaurants, and were happy to see them make a reappearance, but the Crapiata was completely new to us. This is basically a peasant soup that blends various herbs and legumes. It was very hearty and filling, especially on a cold winter day.
For our secondo piatto, which generally features meats or fish, we decided to go for the vegetarian option. This was in part because we were really starting to fill up, but also because the Eggplant Parmigiana was way too tempting! It was cooked in a ceramic bowl and it basically looked like a lasagna with the eggplant used as layers. It was so cheesy!
Moving on to dessert, we ordered a Ricotta Cheesecake which was served warm, with just a little bit of chocolate drizzled over top.
And then came the digestivo in the form of Limoncello. Then we were finally done this feast of a meal!

Where to stay in Matera
If you’re coming all the way to Matera, I would recommend staying in the sassi (this location will allow you to go everywhere on foot) and why not also stay in a cave while you’re at it? The accommodations here are a one of a kind where you can experience a bit of tradition with all the modern conveniences.
We stayed in this cave AirBnB and it was one of my favourite accommodations of the year! It was rustic yet cosy, had a modern bathroom, a fancy espresso machine, and the location was just perfect.
If Here’s a small selection of some cool cave accommodations in Matera:
Sextantio Le Grotte della Civita

Crafting Your Perfect 2‑ to 3‑Day Matera Itinerary
Why 48‑plus Hours?
Matera dazzles at first glance. But the real magic oozes out slowly. Give yourself at least two nights; three is the sweet spot to layer history, cuisine and ravine hikes without sprinting.
Day‑by‑Day Blueprint
Time | Day 1 – “Story of Stone” | Day 2 – “Caves & Cuisine” | Day 3 – “Beyond the Sassi”* |
---|---|---|---|
07:00 | Golden‑hour wander: Traverse Via Fiorentini while shutters rise and cats stretch. | Espresso & pistachio cornetto at Caffè Tripoli (since 1936). | Sunrise shuttle to Belvedere Murgia Timone for wide‑angle panoramas. |
09:00 | Guided walk of Civita & Caveoso (2 h). Highlights: San Pietro Caveoso façade, rupestrian frescoes at Santa Maria de Idris. | Ravine hike via Ponte Tibetano → troglodyte chapels (pack water). | Half‑day e‑bike tour to Cripta del Peccato Originale – the “Sistine Chapel of rock churches.” |
12:30 | Lunch: “peasant platter” at La Lopa – cured meats, canestrato cheese, lampascioni bulbs. | Gastronomic workshop: learn to roll orecchiette ears & strascinati at Cook’n Fun cave kitchen. | Lazy rooftop brunch back in town (try Enoteca dai TOSI). |
15:00 | Palombaro Lungo cistern tour; cool off in the cathedral‑like depths. | Siesta or spa (some cave hotels run candle‑lit salt‑water pools). | Free time: hunt for movie locations (“No Time to Die”, “The Passion of the Christ”, “Ben‑Hur”). |
17:00 | Aperitivo hour: Spritz & cruschi (sun‑dried crunchy peppers) at Area 8. | Sunset at Convento di Sant’Agostino terrace; hear the swifts shriek overhead. | Curious? Pop into MOOM (Matera Olive Oil Museum) for tastings. |
20:00 | Dinner in a cave: Il Terrazzo di Dante – try braised “pezzente” sausage + local Aglianico wine. | Fine‑dining splurge: Francesca Ristorante – lamb with wild figs & honey. | Street‑food finale: grab Panzerotto from Da Zero and perch on the steps of Piazzetta San Biagio. |
*Skip Day 3 if you have a tight schedule, or swap it in for Day 2.
Transport & Arrival Hacks
- By train: Direct Frecciarossa from Bari Centrale (1 h 05 m). Stay till the last stop: Matera Centrale.
- By car: Public parking rings the sassi (Via Lucana, Parcheggio Nicoletti) ~€1/h; traffic inside cave districts is restricted.
- On foot: Prepare for inescapable stair‑work. Wheelie suitcases ≠ fun. Pack a small backpack, leave the trunk‑size spinner in Bari.
Luggage tip: Matera’s mini‑ape (three‑wheel) porters charge ~€10 to whisk big bags from Piazza Veneto to cave hotels – worth every coin if you’re staying deep in the maze.

Money & Timing Quick‑Facts
Item | Typical Cost (2025) |
---|---|
Espresso al banco | €1.20 |
Cave church combo ticket (4 sites) | €8 |
Three‑course dinner w/ wine | €35–45 pp |
Mid‑range cave B&B (double) | €120–160 night incl. breakfast |
High season: April–June & Sept–Oct. Shoulder months (March / November) offer emptier lanes, lower rates, but shorter daylight. August sees sizzling temps (40 °C) and domestic holiday crowds – cave rooms stay naturally cool though!

Matera Micro‑Neighbourhood Cheat‑Sheet
- Civita – The ridge‑top heart crowned by the Duomo. Steep alleys but jaw‑dropping balconies.
- Sasso Caveoso – Raw, less gentrified; donkey brays still echo. Best for sunrise photography facing Murgia cliffs.
- Sasso Barisano – Polished boutique hotels, wine bars and designer ateliers occupying former cisterns.
- Piano – 19th‑century “new town” where locals shop; good supermarkets and ATMs.
Five “Only in Matera” Experiences to Fold into Your Stay
- Cave Cinema Night
Check listings at Cinema Piccolo – they project art‑house films inside a former cistern. Cushions, candles, local craft beer. Surreal! - Bread‑Stamp Souvenir
Drop by Panificio Perrone to watch artisans brand Altamura‑style loaves using carved wooden timbri del pane. They’ll personalise one with your initials (€18–25) – a functional memento for homemade focaccia back home. - Jazz in the Hypogeum
Every Thursday, vaulted cellar Sound‑cave “Casa Cava” hosts live sets. The acoustics make sax riffs hover like ghosts. - Night Photography Crawl
After 23:00 the tour buses vanish; grab a tripod and capture star‑streaked chimneys, flickering votive candles, and blue‑hour facades reflected in puddles. - Peasant Food Revival Dinner
Book Trattoria del Caveoso for a tasting of cucina povera classics: Crapiata (13‑legume stew eaten only each 1 August), cicoria greens sautéed with peperoncino, and Salsiccia Lucanica charred over olive‑wood.

Day‑Trip Ideas If You Have Wheels
Destination | Drive Time | Why Go? |
---|---|---|
Alberobello | 1 h | Fair‑tale trulli cones; pair Matera’s caves with Puglia’s hobbit huts in one photo album. |
Craco Ghost Town | 50 m | Abandoned hill‑top village – dramatic for drone pilots & history geeks. Guided entry only. |
Metaponto Beach & Greek Ruins | 45 m | Columned temples of Hera + golden Ionian sand if you crave a sea dip. |

🏨 Planning Your Stay: Practical Advice & The Cave Hotel Experience
Matera is best experienced at a slow pace. Spend at least two nights to truly settle into its rhythm and see the city transform from quiet dawn to lantern-lit dusk.
Where to Stay: Cave Hotels and Beyond
- Cave Suites: Many cave hotels offer unique features—think spa pools built into stone walls, rooms adorned with centuries-old frescoes, or terraces overlooking the gorge. Favorites like Sextantio Le Grotte della Civita and Le Dodici Lune blend history and comfort.
- Boutique B&Bs: Outside the main sassi, you’ll find chic B&Bs in historic palazzi, often with views and home-cooked breakfasts.
- AirBnB Options: For a more local vibe, look for cave apartments run by Materani families—often tucked away down quiet lanes.
🎭 Festivals & Cultural Life: When Matera Comes Alive
- Festa della Bruna (July 2): The city’s most spectacular festival—a riot of color, parades, fireworks, and the dramatic destruction of a papier-mâché float in the square. If you time your trip for early July, book accommodations well in advance.
- Matera Film Festival: Every autumn, the city transforms into a hub for international filmmakers. Outdoor screenings, workshops, and film tours let you experience Matera’s cinematic side (James Bond fans—yes, No Time to Die filmed here!).
- Seasonal Concerts & Art Installations: From jazz nights in hidden courtyards to avant-garde art exhibits, Matera’s creative calendar is constantly evolving.
Responsible Tourism Pointers
- Respect quiet hours (locals still live in the sassi); voices ricochet off stone amplifying late‑night chatter.
- Stick to marked trails in the ravine – caves host fragile bat colonies.
- Purchasing from craft co‑ops (ceramics, olive‑wood spoons, linen) keeps artisans in residence rather than souvenir megastores.
- Skip heels: porous limestone erodes; stiletto points accelerate wear on centuries‑old steps.

Essential Packing for the Cave‑City
- Light puffer or shawl – cave interiors stay ~15 °C even in summer.
- Grip‑soled shoes – polished stair edges can be slick after dew.
- Portable phone light – atmospheric tunnels lack bulbs; helpful finding key slots.
- Reusable water bottle – public fountains at Piazza Sedile and Porta Pistola pour chilled aqueduct water.
- Wide‑angle lens – alleys are narrow yet vistas huge; 14–24 mm range shines.
And that’s a little taste of what we got up to in Matera. Needless to say, we fell head over heels with the city and have been raving about it to anyone who’ll listen. I hope you enjoyed this travel guide to Matera! If you’re thinking of travelling in Southern Italy, this is one destination you won’t regret adding to your itinerary!
Have you been to Matera? What hidden corners or culinary finds did you discover? Share your own travel stories or questions in the comments below!
The pictures are absolutely stunning! I have seen some of these sights in a recent Italian documentary. It fascinates me how people carved an entire town out of the rock and how they managed to maintain that lifestyle until recently.
Matera is gorgeous! Lovely photos. It’s definitely on my bucket list now. Italy has a distinctive charm that’s visible everywhere – in every region.
Italy has always been my favorite. I have basically visited Rome quite a few times but never got a chance to explore Matera. Thanks for sharing your experiences and tips. Loved it.
We will be visiting and staying in Matera largely due to your video. We can’t wait! Thanks in advance for what I know will be an amazing experience.
This town reminds me of Cappadocia so much! Any chance they have balloons too? 😀
Matera looks absolutely beautiful! Would have to put it on the top of my travel bucket list as well after seeing your post!
Thanks for all that info, you give all the right details!!
Great info and video! I’ll be searching your site for other Italian locations on our trip. Can you recommend if we just have 1 hour in Matera as we’re driving through from Ostuni to Sorrento, what are the highlights to see by car? If the time coincides with lunch, which restaurant would be a good quick stop but also to get a glimpse of the city?
Hi Stephanie, I’d suggest parking the car and exploring on foot – the sassi is a maze of staircases, courtyards, and narrow lanes. All the restaurants I listed in this article were great, though I will say lunchtime in Italy does last more than 1 hour. 😉
Matera really is a very unique destination. I look forward to going one day!