Today I’m sharing my India travel itinerary with you all. One month in India may sound like a long time, but when you’re planning to travel in such a big country, one month can feel like a huge time constraint. Where should you go and what should you do?!
Sam and I ended up in India as part of our annual winter escape with his parents. So far we’ve done Southeast Asia and South America together, and this year they wanted to travel in India.
The two big items on their travel bucket list were the Taj Mahal in Agra and the Ganges in Varanasi; aside from that we were free to plan the whole itinerary.
Sam and I then started talking about Rajasthan, the trip started expanding, and next thing you knew, we were travelling the full width of the country by train from Jaisalmer to Kolkata!
I’ve already shared a few little snippets of our time in India in previous posts, but today I’m going to outline our 1-month India travel itinerary for anyone considering a similar trip.

1-Month India Travel Itinerary: India Travel Guide For Train Travellers
Delhi (4 Days)
Our first stop was Delhi and what an introduction to India! It was chaotic, it was colourful, and it was a whirlwind.
We spent our first day touring the Red Fort, which was once the main residence of the Mughal emperors. It may be called a fort, but this place is more like a walled city and you could easily spend half a day here visiting the bazaar, hammam, gardens, courtyards and palaces.


On our second day we toured Humayun’s Tomb which was commissioned by the Emperor’s wife after his death. It’s a majestic sight with beautiful surrounding grounds.
From there we took a pedal rickshaw to the Lodhi Gardens which house beautiful tombs and they are a popular spot with families on weekends – we saw birthday parties, picnics, and plenty of cricket games taking place.
Just outside the gardens you also have Lodi – The Garden Restaurant, which is a bit of a splurge but offers al fresco dining surrounded by nature.


Our third day in Delhi was reserved for visiting Jama Masjid in the morning. This is the largest mosque (by size) in all of India, so we couldn’t leave without a glimpse of the interior.
Keep in mind that the mosque is not open to visitors during prayer times, so you’ll want to plan your visit accordingly.



Many people will tell you to get in and out of Delhi as quickly as possible, but even after three full days there I felt I could have used more time to see the rest of the sights.
If you have a bit more time you can consider visiting: India Gate, Safdarjung’s Tomb, the Lotus Temple, Akshardham Temple, Jantar Mantar, plus lots of markets.
If you ask me, you need at least a week in Delhi to see it all! You can have a quick look of my Delhi highlights here.
Where I stayed:
Tara Palace Hotel
We booked this hotel because it was a modern property located in a quiet area, yet still within walking distance of the Red Fort. The rooms were spacious and clean, the staff was beyond helpful and friendly, and while there weren’t many restaurants on our street, the hotel served up great meals at their in-house restaurant.
Read reviews for Tara Palace Hotel.
Jaisalmer (3 Days)
Jaisalmer was my favourite stop in Rajasthan. Yes, it was a long train ride to get there, but it was worth it in the end!
Jaisalmer, also known as the Golden City, is one of those places that seemingly rises out of the desert like a mirage.
The yellow sandstone buildings blend in with the colours of the sand, and the city has a bit of a magical feel to it.

The main attraction in town is the Jaisalmer Fort, but it’s such a massive place and there is so much to see and do that you could easily revisit again and again over the course of your stay.
Inside the fort, you can tour the Raj Mahal, the palace where royal members resided, and the Jain Temples, which are renowned for their intricate craftsmanship.
As for souvenir shopping, there is no shortage of shops and stalls selling tapestries, hand-painted postcards, leather goods, metalware, and all sorts of art and crafts.



Jaisalmer’s location also makes it a popular jump off point for camel treks in the Thar Desert.
We did an afternoon trek where we rode camels, climbed dunes to watch the sunset, had dinner, waited for the stars to appear (sadly, it was an overcast night!), and then returned back to the city.
If you’re feeling a bit more adventurous you can camp out for the night or organize a longer tour.
Sam did a 4-day camel trek through the Thar Desert many years back and he’s got some good stories from that trip – including surviving a flash flood that involved climbing trees and then seeking refuge in a small village! – but an afternoon excursion was enough for me.



If you have a bit more time in Jaisalmer you can also consider visiting Bada Bagh, a garden complex about 6 kilometres outside the city, which houses royal cenotaphs (empty tombs).
You can find my full Jaisalmer itinerary here.
Where I stayed:
Tokyo Palace Hotel
This hotel was amazing and the rooms were full of character – exposed yellow sandstone, window day bed with silk pillows, traditional dark wood furniture, and colourful glass lanterns. They also had a great rooftop restaurant that had the best views of Jaisalmer Fort, plus a second rooftop where you could watch the sunrise. The staff were also very kind and helpful, and they offered a free pick-up and drop-off service at the train station.
Read reviews for Tokyo Palace Hotel.
Jodhpur (3 Days)
Next up, we visited Jodhpur, the famed Blue City of Rajasthan. I was expecting it to be similar to Jaisalmer in size, but Jodhpur is a full-blown city that can be a little tricky to navigate.


The main attraction in Jodhpur is Mehrangarh Fort, a place that looks like the setting of a fairy tale with elements of science fiction.
Mehrangarh Fort houses an impressive museum where you can see paintings, costumes, armour, and furnishings that would have been used by the rulers.
Inside the fort, there’s also a nice cafe called Café Mehran which serves up some of the best samosas I had in India.



We also visited the Sardar Market which encircles the Clock Tower. It was not my favourite area, but that does put you in close proximity to two really good restaurants that we coincidentally discovered.
The first is Indique, which is a rooftop restaurant that’s popular for sunset drinks; and the second is Jhankar, which is set in a lush courtyard and serves up a delicious Rajisthani thali – this was my favourite restaurant in town!
When we weren’t eating in Jodhpur (and it seems that we visited more restaurants than we did attractions!), we were wandering the blue maze that is this city.

Where I stayed:
Jewel Palace Haweli
We got the Deluxe Room with Castle View and like the name suggests, we had amazing views of the fort and the blue city. Yes, that picture you see right above was taken from our hotel! While I loved staying in a traditional haveli, we did find the staff quite forgetful – we had to repeatedly ask for things like bedsheets, towels and toilet paper. So although I would recommend staying at a haveli as it’s such a unique type of accommodation, I would also suggest finding a property with better ratings. You can browse havelis in Jodhpur here.
Read reviews for Jewel Palace Haveli.
Jaipur (3 Days)
We then travelled to Jaipur, which is nicknamed the Pink City.
The attractions in Jaipur were beautiful, but we also signed up for a day tour that turned into a bit of a nightmare.
I would not recommend the day tour operated by RTDC (Rajasthan Tourism Development Commission); we raced from attraction to attraction with an unhappy guide who lost half the people in his group, scheduled several commission-based shopping stops, and had a very negative attitude, but that’s a story for another day.
If I were to redo my time in Jaipur, I would try to cover less attractions and visit these on my own, perhaps only hiring a driver to get me to some of the further sites.



Our longest stop of the day was at the City Palace and I’m glad we had the time to visit this place thoroughly.
The City Palace is a complex housing several buildings within it and you could easily spend half a day wandering around.
You have Mubarak Mahal, housing a textile museum; Chandra Mahal, the residence of the descendants of the former rulers of Jaipur; Diwan-i-Khas, the Hall of Private Audience; Diwan-i-Am, the Hall of Public Audience; and plenty more.
Just a short walk from the City Palace, you also have Jantar Mantar, which is a collection of architectural astronomical instruments that were built in the 18th century.
There are a total of 19 instruments that would have been used to study the planets and the stars, and it kind of made me wish they did night tours so we could actually see these instruments put in action.
Alas, the site closes at 4:30 in the afternoon!

On our tour we raced to three different forts – Nahargarh Fort, Jaigarh Fort, and the Amber Fort – but to be honest, our visits were so brief that I can’t say I truly saw any of them.
If I had to redo it, I would have chosen one fort – probably the Amber Fort since it’s just outside Jaipur – and focused on enjoying that one to the max.

Another major landmark that we only got to see in passing through the bus window was Hawa Mahal, also known as the Palace of Winds.
This is a pink structure that kind of resembles a honeycomb, which was used by ladies of the royal household who wanted to observe processions and everyday life in the city, but remain unseen.
Where I stayed:
Jai Niwas Garden Hotel
We stayed at a little boutique hotel that had a bit of an old British feel. What sold me were the gardens complete with outdoor furniture so that you could enjoy a book or a cup of tea out on the lawn after a long day of sightseeing. The staff at this hotel were also very sweet, always helping us with directions and offering to find us transportation when needed.
Read reviews for Jai Niwas Garden Hotel.
Agra (4 Days)
Our first full day in Agra was a Friday, which meant the Taj Mahal was closed for visitors, so we decided to visit Agra Fort instead.
This was the residence of the Mughal emperors before they moved their capital over to Delhi and built the Red Fort, so it was kind of cool spotting some of the similarities between the two places.
The following day we made it to the Taj Mahal, which was even more beautiful in person than I expected.
It’s funny, sometimes when you’ve seen a place in photos or documentaries, it can be a bit of a let down in person, but that was not the case with the Taj. It radiated against the bright blue skies, and then once we got closer we were able to see all the arabesques and floral details done in precious stones.

We also made time to visit the Taj Protected Forest, which is located just outside the east gate. This is a nice scenic walk and because there are a few lookout points you also get views of the Taj Mahal off in the distance.



Lastly, before hopping on the overnight train, we visited the Baby Taj, whose real name is the Tomb of I’timād-ud-Daulah.
This tomb was built for Mizra Ghiyas Beg, who was the grandfather of Mumtaz Mahal (the woman the Taj Mahal was built for).
This was the first Mughal structure to be built entirely out of marble and it’s often compared to a jewellery box because it is covered in semi-precious stones.


From the Baby Taj, it’s only a short drive to Mehtab Bagh, or the Moonlight Garden.
The gardens sit directly behind the Taj and across the river, so it’s a popular spot to catch the sunset.
You can read this post for a better look at the places we visited in Agra.

Where I stayed:
The Coral Court Homestay Hotel
Alright, so this was my favourite hotel of the whole trip! Not only was it a beautiful property lovingly decorated with trinkets from around the world, but it was also a short walk from East Gate, which made it very easy to get to the Taj Mahal on foot. I also loved that in the evenings we had the option of having dinner with the other hotel guests in a communal setting. They served home cooked vegetarian meals and we devoured every last bowl of pumpkin and eggplant curries. The hosts were lovely and I would highly recommend this place!
Read reviews of The Coral Court Homestay Hotel.
Varanasi (4 Days)
After taking the overnight train from Agra, we arrived in Varanasi, which was the second last destination of our month in India.
The main attraction in Varanasi is the Ganges River and everything that happens along the water’s edge, so we spent our first morning walking along the ghats (the steps leading down to the river).
There was so much going on that we almost didn’t know where to look, but what surprised me the most was seeing people doing laundry in the Ganges! What?!?!?!
Hotel towels and bedsheets were being washed in the dark waters and these were then being draped to dry in the sun on the ghats.
Laundry was happening not too far from where bodies were being cremated, and then people were bathing so close to the cremation site that the ashes were floating around their ankles…
I think that was the moment when I experienced culture shock in India.




Another popular activity in Varanasi is to go on a boat ride down the Ganges River. Sunrise and sunset draw people for soft, golden light – if you want the buildings to be illuminated, you’ll want to go at sunrise.
Hotels and tour operators across town can help you arrange this outing, or you can just walk down to the river and find a boatman on the spot.



We also attended the Ganga Aarti ceremony which takes place on Dashashwamedh Ghat starting at 6:45 p.m.
This fire worship ceremony is performed by a group of priests soon after sundown, and crowds gather to watch them sing, burn incense, and light candles.
Places fill up fast so it’s good to arrive early if you want to snag a spot near the action. Some of the temples along the ghats offer priority seating for a small fee (about 50 rupees) where you can observe the ceremony from a high vantage point, or you can also pay to watch from a boat.
Where I stayed:
Ganges Grand Hotel
I stayed at the Ganges Grand Hotel and while it was a great location and the rooms were clean and spacious, the hotel was located in a busy intersection, which meant the honking and traffic noise could be heard in the background from sunup to sundown. If you’re a light sleeper, you may want to look elsewhere, but aside from that I have no real complaints. They also served up some delicious Indian dishes in their restaurant. You can browse hotels in Varanasi here.
Read reviews of Ganges Grand Hotel.
Kolkata (3 Days)
This brings us to our final stop in India: Kolkata.
Admittedly, I didn’t do a whole lot of sightseeing in Kolkata since I got quite ill just before leaving Varanasi, but I did manage to explore a bit of the area on my last day there.
Sam and I visited the Sir Stuart Hogg Market (also known as New Market), photographed the iconic yellow cabs, and then finished the day at Blue & Beyond, which is a nice little rooftop resto-bar in the Lindsay Hotel.


I would have liked to visit Mother Theresa’s Home, see the Victoria Memorial Hall, and walk around the Maidan, but sometimes you just can’t win them all.

Where I stayed:
I can’t recommend the hotel where I stayed since I ended up sharing the room with a mouse! The Astoria Hotel looked great in photos, but we were placed in the “Old Wing”, which looked nothing like what we saw online. We found cigarette butts in the bathroom, a dirty shower, mouldy walls, but what’s worse was the staff’s lack of interest in their guests. Despite my hotel’s shortcomings, I did enjoy the neighbourhood, so I would suggest staying just east of the Maidan in what’s known as Colootola – you can search for Kolkata hotels here. There are lots of hotels and restaurants in this area, plus it also puts you within walking distance of many of the attractions.
And that finally concludes my month-long India travel itinerary.
We visited a total of 7 destinations, giving ourselves 3-4 days in each place, and travelling entirely by train.
I will say that travel in India is exhausting in ways that other destinations aren’t – don’t go into it thinking it’ll be a walk in the park! – but we also saw some beautiful sights and architectural wonders that made it all worth it.
More posts from India with practical travel tips coming soon.

India by Train Travel Tips: Practical Planner (Trains, Budget, Seasons & Detours)
If you’re itching to replicate this month-long rail adventure (or remix it to fit your vibe), here’s a nuts-and-bolts add-on section. It’s part route map, part cheat sheet, and all the lessons we learned along the chai-scented way.

The 30-Day Game Plan (Row-by-Row)
Day | Base / Overnight | Morning | Midday | Evening | Little Bonus |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Delhi | Arrive, drop bags | Old Delhi wander: Chandni Chowk taster lap | Red Fort at golden hour | Easy thali dinner near hotel |
2 | Delhi | Humayun’s Tomb | Lodi Gardens picnic | India Gate drive-by + Khan Market coffee | Early night (jet lag is real) |
3 | Delhi | Jama Masjid + spice street peeks | Lunch in New Delhi | Lotus or Akshardham (choose one) | Book first train & SIM top-up |
4 | Delhi → Jaisalmer | Buffer/errand morning | Board long-haul train (day sleeper or overnight) | Train life: chai, window movies | Locks on bags; set alarms |
5 | Jaisalmer | Fort orientation walk | Jain Temples & palace | Sunset ramparts | Rooftop curry with fort view |
6 | Jaisalmer | Desert village stop | Camel trek into dunes | Thar sunset + camp dinner | Stargaze (or try!) |
7 | Jaisalmer | Slow breakfast | Bada Bagh cenotaphs | Fabric/tapestry browsing | Train or car to Jodhpur |
8 | Jodhpur | Mehrangarh Fort (audio guide) | Café Mehran samosas | Blue alleys photo walk | Rooftop mojito at sunset |
9 | Jodhpur | Clock Tower market | Stepwell peek (Toorji Ka Jhalra) | Jhankar garden thali | Pack & prep tickets |
10 | Jodhpur → Jaipur | Train ride | Check-in | City Palace first look | Lassi on MI Road |
11 | Jaipur | Amber Fort (early) | Panna Meena stepwell | Hawa Mahal façade stop | Night bazaar meander |
12 | Jaipur | Jantar Mantar | City Palace museums (deep dive) | Sunset at Nahargarh (optional) | Street snacks date |
13 | Jaipur → Agra | Rail to Agra | Check-in near East Gate | Taj Nature Walk scouting | Veg home-style dinner |
14 | Agra | Taj Mahal sunrise | Chill/nap | Agra Fort | Café with Taj peeks |
15 | Agra | Taj Protected Forest | Brunch | Baby Taj (Itimad-ud-Daulah) | Mehtab Bagh sunset |
16 | Agra → Varanasi (overnight) | Lazy AM + errands | Early dinner | Board sleeper to Varanasi | Secure your berth & bottle water |
17 | Varanasi | Arrive + ghats walk | Lassi & kachori break | Ganga Aarti (grab seats early) | Hot shower & bed! |
18 | Varanasi | Sunrise boat ride | Backstreet snack crawl | Weaving workshop visit | Rooftop chai |
19 | Varanasi | Free morning | Sarnath (Buddhist complex) | Souvenirs & sweets | Pack for next hop |
20 | Varanasi → Kolkata | Day train/flight | Check-in (Colootola area is handy) | New Market stroll | Rooftop dinner |
21 | Kolkata | Heritage tram or walk | Victoria exterior grounds | Howrah Bridge at dusk | Puchka (pani puri) tasting |
22 | Kolkata → Home/next | Buffer breakfast | Last-minute shopping | Airport transfer | Airport biryani for the road |

Train Playbook (Classes, Booking & Berth Wisdom)
Classes decoded (quick & honest):
- 2A (AC 2-Tier): My sweet spot for overnights—curtains, bedding, fewer people, decent rest.
- 3A (AC 3-Tier): Budget-friendlier, still comfy; more bunks per bay, bring earplugs.
- SL (Sleeper Class, non-AC): Ultra local and breezy; great by day, drafty by night. I only do SL for short hops in cooler months.
- CC/EC (Chair Car/Executive): For fast day trains (Shatabdi, Vande Bharat); assigned seats, tray meals, no bunks.

Booking basics (no drama edition):
- Create an account on the official railway system or a reputable booking partner before you need it. Keep passport details handy and spell names exactly as on ID.
- Search by train number and class, not just route—some popular trains skip small stations.
- Peak seasons = earlier bookings. For big routes (Agra–Varanasi, Delhi–Jaisalmer, Varanasi–Kolkata) buy as soon as your dates firm up.
- Berth picks: lower berths for elders, side-lower if you like your own window cocoon, middle/upper for night owls. Traveling as a pair? Select two lowers if possible.
- Tatkal (last-minute quota): Opens shortly before departure and sells fast; fees are higher but it can save a plan.
- PNR is king. Screenshot your ticket + PNR and keep a paper printout. Conductors scan phones quickly but paper survives dead batteries.

Coach-life survival kit:
- Cable lock + short chain (loop through bag frame to berth)
- Silk liner or light sleep sack (bedding is provided in AC classes but I still love a liner)
- Shawl/hoodie + warm socks (AC can be chilly)
- Earplugs + eye mask
- Power bank (don’t rely on the one outlet near the door)
- Hand sanitizer, tissues, baby wipes
- Offline music/podcasts + a downloaded map for your arrival station
Food on rails (what we actually eat):
- Veg thali or paneer wraps from onboard catering on premium day trains.
- Platform snacks: samosas, vada pav, bananas, sealed water, chai from busy vendors (quick turnover = fresher).
- Order-to-seat services exist on some routes; read reviews and pick high-rated kitchens only.

Smart Budgeting (Daily Snapshot)
- Mid-range comfort: $45–$75 USD pp/day (shared doubles), including AC class trains, boutique guesthouses, sit-down meals, a daily ride app budget, and a paid site or guide.
- Backpacker: $25–$40 pp/day if you mix 3A/SL, eat local, and choose homestays/guesthouses.
- Where the money goes: Fort and palace tickets, heritage guides, a couple of splurge rooftop dinners, and that one irresistible textile.
ATM & money tips:
- Withdraw at large-bank ATMs (inside malls or branches) and carry a small stash of ₹10/₹20 coins for tipping porters and chai wallahs.
- UPI/mobile payments are widespread in cities; keep cash for small vendors and rural sights.

Seasons & What to Pack for This Route
Region | Best Window | What it feels like | Pack Emphasis |
---|---|---|---|
Delhi & Agra | Oct–Mar | Cool mornings, blue winter skies, haze possible | Light down/ fleece, breathable scarf, hand sanitizer/mask for dusty days |
Rajasthan (Jaisalmer/Jodhpur/Jaipur) | Nov–Feb | Warm sun, cool nights, desert dryness | Layers, sunhat/sunglasses, lip balm, closed-toe shoes for forts & dunes |
Varanasi | Oct–Mar | Crisp dawns, busy ghats, occasional fog | Modest layers, easy-rinse shoes (ghat spray!), light rain shell |
Kolkata | Nov–Feb | Pleasant, humid afternoons | Linen/cotton daywear, packable umbrella, mosquito repellent for evenings |
Monsoon note (Jun–Sep) | Varies | Lush + sticky; sudden showers | Quick-dry outfits, packable poncho, sandal that straps on |
Detours & Swap-Ins (Based on Your Travel Personality)
- Romantics & lake-people: Swap Jodhpur → Udaipur (2–3 nights). Sunset boat on Lake Pichola, City Palace, lazy cafés.
- Wildlife hopefuls: Add Ranthambore between Jaipur and Agra (2 nights). Book a dawn and dusk safari; sightings not guaranteed, thrills are.
- Temple art lovers: Slot Khajuraho between Agra and Varanasi (1–2 nights) by train or short flight.
- Himalaya teaser: After Varanasi, add Darjeeling (2 nights) before Kolkata—tea estates, toy train, cool air.
- Delta daydreamers: From Kolkata, consider a Sundarbans day/overnight for mangrove ecology (book with a responsible operator).
Rule of thumb: every detour needs a travel day. Cut a night elsewhere or extend your trip—don’t compress sleep and expect joy.

Getting Around Inside Cities
- Rideshare apps (where available) cut out haggling. If you’re grabbing a local auto-rickshaw, agree on the fare before you hop in and keep small bills ready.
- Avoid “shopping stops.” If a driver pushes hard for “my cousin’s emporium,” smile, decline, and restate your destination.
- Walking reality check: Distances look short on the map but old-city alleys and traffic make them longer. Hydrate and pace yourself.

Health, Safety & Etiquette—Tiny Habits, Big Payoffs
- Water: sealed bottles or reliable filter bottles only. Brush teeth with the same.
- Street food: busy stalls, fast turnover, cooked-to-order = yes; pre-cut fruit on slow stands = maybe not today.
- Temple manners: shoes off, right hand for offerings, no photography where signs say so.
- Scams: the “site is closed, come to my shop” line is classic; verify with the official gate/online.
- Women travelers: carry a scarf; in crowded places, stand your ground and stick near families.
- Tipping: guides (10–15%), porters (₹20–50 per bag), small change for temple attendants or boatmen.
Pack a micro health kit: rehydration salts, basic pain relief, antihistamines, anti-diarrheals, blister plasters. It’s boring until it’s not, and then it’s heroic.

Packing List (Rail-Trip Edition)
- Day bag: lockable zips, crossbody or small backpack
- Clothing: 3–4 breathable outfits + 1 nicer dinner look; 1 light sweater; 1 compact rain layer
- Footwear: breathable walking shoes, slip-on sandals (great for temples and trains)
- Textiles you’ll actually use: scarf/shawl (sun, temples, AC trains), sleep liner, laundry line & soap leaves
- Gadgets: universal adapter, power bank, e-SIM or local SIM, flashlight/headlamp for night arrivals
- Paper: 4–6 passport photos (handy for SIMs/permits), passport copies, printed tickets for older checkpoints
- Extras: small gifts from home (chocolate/tea) if you’re staying with families—totally optional and always appreciated

Sample Train-Ticket Timeline (To Stay Sane)
When | Action | Why it helps |
---|---|---|
4–6 weeks out | Book anchor legs (Delhi→Jaisalmer, Agra→Varanasi, Varanasi→Kolkata) | Sleeper classes sell quickly on popular routes |
2–3 weeks out | Book mid-route hops (Jaisalmer→Jodhpur→Jaipur→Agra) | More flexibility, still choice of berths |
48–24 hours out | Confirm PNRs, screenshot tickets, check platform numbers | Saves sprinting through the wrong hall |
Departure day | Arrive 40–60 minutes early; find your coach board | Big stations can be mazes; buffers are bliss |
Five Gentle Trip-Savers
- Build buffer mornings after late-night arrivals—India rewards those who rest.
- One fort per day in Rajasthan—linger in courtyards, don’t speed-date palaces.
- Eat when it’s busy. If there’s a line, that’s your spot.
- Keep a “spirit of the day.” (Blue doors, rooftop views, or simply good tea.) It makes big cities feel small and joyful.
- Say yes to homestays. Our best meals and stories came from family tables.
Quick Remixes (if you have fewer/more days)
- 2–3 weeks only? Trim Kolkata or Jaisalmer, and fly one long hop (e.g., Jaipur→Varanasi) to reclaim days.
- 6 weeks? Add Udaipur and Pushkar between Jodhpur and Jaipur, plus Darjeeling before Kolkata.

India by Train: 1-Month Itinerary — FAQ
1) How many days should I plan in each city to match this itinerary’s pace?
Aim for 3–4 nights per stop with a travel day in between major hops. That gives you one full “must-see” day, one slower day for markets or food crawls, and a buffer morning to sleep in or do laundry. India rewards unhurried pacing; skimming forts and temples back-to-back will burn you out fast.
2) What’s the best time of year to do this Delhi→Rajasthan→Agra→Varanasi→Kolkata route?
October to March offers the most pleasant weather: cool, clear winters in North India and crisp dawns on the Ganges. Expect chilly desert nights in Rajasthan (pack layers) and mild, slightly humid afternoons in Kolkata. April–June is very hot, and June–September brings monsoon showers that can slow trains and sightseeing.

3) How do I book trains and which classes make sense?
Create an account with the official rail system (or a reputable partner), decide your target class, and book anchor legs 4–6 weeks out. For overnights, 2A (AC 2-tier) balances comfort and price; 3A (AC 3-tier) is a bit busier but fine; use Sleeper (SL) only for shorter, cooler daytime hops. If plans change, the last-minute Tatkal quota can rescue you, but it’s pricier and sells in minutes.
4) Any practical tips for sleeping and staying safe on overnight trains?
Bring a light liner or shawl, earplugs, and an eye mask; AC coaches can be cold and bright. Keep valuables in a small daypack you use as a pillow, and lock your main bag to the berth with a cable lock. Screenshot tickets and coach/berth numbers, set two alarms, and ask the conductor to give you a heads-up before your stop.
5) What should I pack specifically for this route?
Think breathable layers plus one warm fleece or light down for desert nights and early Taj/Varanasi mornings. Add a packable rain shell (fog/mist or surprise showers), a scarf for sun/temples, closed-toe walking shoes, and sandals that strap on. Tech-wise, carry a universal adapter, power bank, offline maps, and a small headlamp for night arrivals.
6) How can I keep costs reasonable without “roughing it”?
Mid-range travelers can expect $45–$75 USD per person per day sharing a double—AC train classes, boutique guesthouses/homestays, sit-down meals, and a paid guide or two. Backpacking with 3A/SL and local eateries lands around $25–$40. Big ticket swings are fort/palace entries, rooftop dinners, and textiles/handicrafts (they add up!).
7) What are smart ways to get around inside each city?
Use rideshare apps where they’re reliable; otherwise, agree on auto-rickshaw prices before you hop in and keep small bills ready. In Jaipur and Agra, hiring a driver by the half day is often cheaper (and calmer) than stringing together many short rides. Old-city walks look short on maps—heat and alleys make them longer, so hydrate and plan shade breaks.

8) How do I plan the Taj Mahal day so it’s stress-free?
Go at sunrise for softer light and fewer crowds, and try to stay near the East Gate so you can walk over. The Taj is closed on Fridays, so slot Agra Fort/Baby Taj/Mehtab Bagh that day if needed. Bring as little as possible (bag checks are strict), wear socks or use shoe covers on the marble, and budget time afterward for the Taj Nature Walk or Mehtab Bagh sunset views.
9) Is Varanasi overwhelming—and how do I visit respectfully?
It’s intense and unforgettable. Dress modestly, keep a respectful distance at the cremation ghats (no photos there), and hire a reputable boatman for a sunrise ride facing the glowing ghats. The evening Ganga Aarti fills early; arrive 30–45 minutes ahead or watch from a boat or a nearby terrace with priority seats.
10) I’m short on time. What can I cut or swap without losing the “feel” of the trip?
With 2–3 weeks, keep Delhi (3n) → Jaipur (2–3n) → Agra (2n) → Varanasi (2–3n) and fly one long hop. If forts blur together, skip Jaisalmer or Jodhpur and add Udaipur for lakes and a softer city vibe. Nature-inclined? Insert Ranthambore (2n) between Jaipur and Agra for tiger safaris, trimming a night elsewhere.
11) What about health, food, and water?
Stick to sealed water (or a good filter bottle), eat at busy places with fast turnover, and choose cooked-to-order dishes when you’re unsure. Pack rehydration salts, basic meds, blister plasters, and hand sanitizer; wash hands before meals and after trains. India favors early nights and early starts—sleep well and you’ll enjoy it more.
12) Any etiquette or photography tips for this route?
Always ask before photographing people, especially holy men, artisans, and families. Remove shoes at mosques/temples, cover shoulders/knees where requested, and follow “no photo” signs—particularly around Varanasi’s cremation ghats and certain palace interiors. A smile, a greeting, and patience go further here than a packed checklist—linger in courtyards, sip the chai, and let the country unfold.

Have you travelled in India?
Is there anything else you’d add to this India travel itinerary?
Nice one Audrey!
This is a really cool itinerary. And I like the way that you dedicated 3 to 4 days on your trip. ‘So much more relaxing!
Yes, I’ve been to India. 12 years ago now. Eek! And what an experience! I went there solo, travelled with a Swiss girl that I bumped into for 2 weeks, then continued on solo again. I was there for a month! I loved everything except for Delhi and the train journey. And the thing is, I spent about 4 days in Delhi – 2 days at the beginning of my trip, and 2 days at the end. It was the right thng to do but by then I was pretty exhausted and just wanted to go home!
Ha! Ha! I’m taking the family next year!
p.s. I would also add Udaipur. It really was lovely.
http://thebritishberliner.com
This is definitely a great itinerary for a first trip to Northern India if you want to see all the main highlights in a month! I can highly recommend Bundi in Rajasthan if you want to get a bit off the beaten track – it has an awesome fort (with a real Indiana Jones feel!) that was practically empty when I was there!
Such an amazing trip Audrey, took me back to my memories!
India is such a crazy place, sometimes it gets overwhelming but as soon as you leave the country you kind of miss it. We visited more or less the same places, I fell in love with Varanasi; that place is out of this world! I still miss that spiritual feeling, would definitely turn back one day.
I had had a bit of problem with transportation (who doesn’t) and gotten pretty sick of spending money and time on my arrival, I created this one for travelers. Leaving it here for your future travels, it shows all the possible transportation options between airport and the city center so we don’t end up getting ripped by a taxi driver or spend time and money. here it is: http://airporttocenter.com/
Enjoy your travels!
Cheers
Thanks so much, will definitely be referring to this when I trek to India next year, cheers
What a gorgeous blog, I was looking for India inspo and came across your posts. I remember visiting some of these places but my photos from 10+ years ago are not up to scratch and doesn’t capture the essence of India like yours does. Thanks for sharing, I’ve been dreaming of going back to India with the kids and this post makes me want to go now!
xo
Love this post! It’s making me all kinds of excited for my trip coming up! Question for you – how did you deal with safety in India? especially when travelling by train? Also, what kind of luggage did you take?
Really a wonderful post. Thanks for posting such an informative & useful post with us. I would especially interested in Jodhpur and Jaisalmer. Those palaces in the desert are so beautiful!