Hiking in Ceahlău National Park in Romania’s Eastern Carpathians

When you think of hiking destinations in Europe, what places come to mind? For me, it’s usually the Alps, the Dolomites, or the Pyrenees. Hiking in Ceahlău National Park which is part of Romania’s Eastern Carpathians? That’s a mountain range that I wasn’t really familiar with until I arrived.

I came to the country with a group of fellow bloggers to explore Neamt County – a part of Romania that few travellers know about and even fewer venture to – so I guess in a way it isn’t so surprising that I had never heard of Ceahlău National Park. Yet knowing very little about the place, once I heard that we would be hiking and then spending the night in a little cabin atop the mountain, I was hooked on the idea!

I may not be a great mountaineer – you certainly won’t catch me climbing the Seven Summits anytime soon! – but I have gone trekking in Sapa, climbed an active volcano in Bali, and tackled Drakensberg in South Africa. Not bad considering I wasn’t all that interested in the outdoors until I started travelling. Hiking in Romania was a challenge I was happy to tackle.

Hiking In Romania Adventure

Our jump-off point for this hike was the little mountainside town of Durau, so we arrived there the day before the big trek to get some rest and scope out the area.

The following morning, we started towards the mountains with the fog still hanging over the forest and the sunlight slowly trickling in through the foliage. The ground was still wet from the previous night’s storm and the falling droplets from the leaves above us were cool and refreshing.

I’d like to tell you this hike is easy, but it’s one that you’re going to have to work hard for. We started walking uphill the instant we entered the forest and the ground levelled out only for a few brief moments as we made the long ascent to Ceahlău Massif. It was the most intense day-hike I have ever attempted, but beauty was all around us and I felt fortunate to be experiencing this despite the burning calves and being out of breath.

By the time lunch rolled around we all stopped for a picnic next to Cascada Duruitoarea, which I was told is the second tallest waterfall in the country. We all quietly munched on our sandwiches half-dazed by nature and half-exhausted by the climb thus far.

I spent most of the morning hiking with people in our group, but in the afternoon I tackled the mountain solo. I set my sight on that imaginary cabin at the very end of the trail and how wonderful it would be to reach the top and sprawl out on the grass with a Kindle in one hand and a glass of iced lemonade on the other. I didn’t even know if I would actually find lemonade at the very top, but the thought was enough to push me forward.

I followed the markers through the forest until they led me to this very spot where the peak of a majestic mountain loomed before me. At this point, the trail faded and gave way to an open field so I continued walking knowing the cabin had to be close by. I may or may not have gotten kind of lost and ended up in front of a church rather than a cabin (okay, yes that did happen), but I eventually stumbled upon a French hiker who pointed me in the right direction.

Relaxing at Cabana Dochia Mountain Cabin

Sunset Hiking Adventure

When I finally did reach Cabana Dochia, my home for the night, I bought a fresh bottle of iced tea, found a cosy dip in the hill, and pulled out my Kindle to unwind. I then proceeded to fall asleep within seconds. I’m not sure how long I was out for, but it was a well-deserved nap after a long day of hiking. If it hadn’t been for the next batch of hikers stirring me awake, I probably could have slept there all afternoon.

The rest of the afternoon was pretty low key. We all hung around the cabin, either playing with the owner’s dogs or gazing at the mountains…and then it was time for some more hiking!

After eating a hearty meal, part of our group set out again to do a sunset hike. (Yes, I surprised myself too.) This was a much shorter 45-minute trek that took us out to a peak where we watched the sun put on a magical display of pale pinks and golds.

I may or may not have gotten lost again when I decided to walk back early (okay, fine guys, that did happen for a second time), but I eventually found my way back just as twilight fell over the mountain range.

Saying Goodbye to Ceahlău National Park

Ending the Trip the Romanian Way

The following morning it was time to bid farewell to Ceahlău National Park. We packed up our things shortly after breakfast and began the long descent down the other side of the mountain. Oh, and because this is Romania, when we finally finished the hike, everyone gathered at a local resto-bar for shots of Romanian palinca. That’s how you end a wonderful trip hiking in Ceahlău National Park!

Planning Your Own Ceahlău Adventure: Tips & Practical Info

Why Ceahlău National Park Stands Out

Before getting into the logistics, let’s talk about what makes Ceahlău so special. Sure, the scenery is stunning: ancient beech woods, mysterious mossy clearings, craggy limestone cliffs, and wide-open meadows with panoramic mountain views. But it’s also the mystique. Ceahlău is sometimes called the “Olympus of Romania”—a mountain steeped in folklore and legends of hermits, miracles, and Dacian gods. Hikers here aren’t just crossing a national park. They’re following in the footsteps of pilgrims, poets, and painters inspired by this untamed landscape.

Best Time to Visit

Ceahlău National Park is open year-round, but the best hiking conditions run from late May to early October. Spring brings wildflowers, autumn delivers fiery foliage, and in summer, the air is warm enough for long days on the trail—though mountain weather can be unpredictable, so always pack layers and rain gear.

Winter hikes are possible (and magical!) but only recommended for experienced trekkers with proper gear and a guide, as snow and fog can make the trails treacherous and signage harder to follow.

Getting There: Starting Your Journey

• Base Town: Most hikers start in the charming mountain resort of Durău, which is well-equipped with guesthouses, restaurants, and mini-markets. If you’re relying on public transport, buses from Piatra Neamț or Bicaz will bring you to Durău, but be prepared for a few changes and a bit of patience.
• By Car: If you’re driving, Durău is about 2.5 hours from Iași or 5 hours from Bucharest—a scenic road trip in itself, especially once you reach the Carpathians.

Choosing Your Trail: Main Routes Up Ceahlău Massif

Ceahlău National Park has a network of well-marked trails, most of which converge at Cabana Dochia, the iconic mountaintop hut that serves as the “base camp” for summit attempts and overnight stays.

Most popular routes:

• Durău to Cabana Dochia via Fantanele (red stripe): The classic approach—about 6 hours uphill, challenging but doable if you’re reasonably fit.
• Bicaz–Izvorul Muntelui route (blue cross): Slightly longer but less steep, great for gradual ascents and for seeing the Duruitoarea waterfall along the way.
• Other routes: Shorter circuits like the Ocolașul Mare peak, or the longer “pilgrim’s path” from Ceahlău village.

Suggested 2‑Day Loop
Day 1 climb via Yellow Cross, overnight at Dochia, Day 2 descend via Blue Triangle. You’ll get both the waterfall and the sunset ridge without repeating kilometres.

Choosing Your Route: More Detail

Tip: Bring a physical map (available in Durău or at park info centers) and download a GPS track or offline map. Phone service can be spotty, and trails split at several points.

What to Expect: Accommodation, Food & Essentials

Staying Overnight: The Mountain Hut Experience

The iconic Cabana Dochia hut sits just below the main summit plateau at 1750 meters, with room for 100+ hikers in dorm-style accommodation. The hut is rustic—think creaky bunks, wood stoves, and no showers—but it’s friendly and atmospheric, with a dining room serving simple Romanian dishes (hearty soups, stews, and plenty of tea).

Booking: Try to reserve your spot in advance, especially on weekends or holidays, as the hut can fill up. In summer, there may be tents pitched outside, but weather changes quickly, so a bunk is always preferable.

Food & Supplies

• On the trail: There are no shops or kiosks once you leave Durău, so pack snacks, water, and a picnic lunch. Refill bottles at Cabana Dochia or marked springs.
• At the hut: You’ll find hot meals (soup, polenta, stews), drinks, and snacks, but if you have dietary restrictions, bring extra supplies.
• Pro tip: Pick up local cheese, salami, and bread in Durău for a trail lunch with a taste of Romania.

What to Pack

• Layers: Weather in the Carpathians changes fast—carry a warm jacket, hat, gloves, and rain gear, even in midsummer.
• Good hiking boots: Trails can be muddy, rocky, and steep.
• Headlamp: Essential for early starts, late finishes, or midnight runs to the loo.
• First aid and basics: Blister plasters, sunscreen, a small power bank (electricity is limited at the hut), and a map/compass or GPS.
• Cash: The mountain hut and many rural areas do not accept cards.

Wildlife, Flora & What to Look Out For

Ceahlău is a biodiversity hotspot—keep your eyes peeled for foxes, deer, wild boar, and (with luck) even lynx or bears, though sightings are rare and the animals generally avoid people. In spring and summer, wildflowers blanket the meadows—orchids, gentians, and rare endemic species you won’t find elsewhere.

Tip: Stick to the marked trails to avoid disturbing wildlife and to protect yourself (and the delicate Carpathian ecosystem).

Getting There & Away

• By bus: Daily service from Piatra Neamţ to Durău (2 h, 35 lei) departs Autogara Tarsin at 07:00, 12:00 and 15:30. Last return next day at 16:00—note it or be stranded.
• By train + taxi: Fast trains Bucharest → Bicaz (5 h). From there grab a local taxi to Ceahlău village trailhead for ~110 lei.
• Car rental: DN15 scenic drive skirts Bicaz Lake with photo stops and trout grills (păstrăv) every few kilometres. Free parking in Durău behind Sfântul Ilie Church.

When to Go (Best Times For The Hike)

Budget Snapshot

A very doable 240 lei / €48 for a classic two‑day hike including transport.

Extending Your Trip: Other Things to Do Nearby

If you’re already in Neamț County, there’s plenty more to see:

• Visit Neamț Monastery: One of Romania’s oldest and most beautiful.
• Explore the Bicaz Gorges: Dramatic canyons perfect for road trips and photography.
• Lake Izvorul Muntelui: A reservoir with sweeping views, boat tours, and lakeside cabins.
• Wander through Piatra Neamț: The county capital, with a medieval fortress, cable car, and vibrant market.

Have questions about planning your own hike in Romania? Drop them in the comments below—or share your favourite mountain memories!

My trip to Neamt County was organized in partnership with Eventur Bucharest.