Our recent Black Forest road trip was one of the highlights of our travels in Germany! This destination had been on our travel bucket list ever since we first caught a glimpse of the Black Forest on a short visit to Freiburg. We knew we wanted to come back to explore, and we finally made it…several years later.
If you’re looking for deep, dark forests that look like the perfect setting for a Grimm fairy tale, hiking trails that weave their way past creeks and waterfalls, and charming lakeside towns with half-timbered houses, then the Black Forest is the place for you!
This is a destination with a strong focus on nature and the outdoors, and I would say the Black Forest is also best done as a road trip since that gives you the flexibility and mobility to explore at your own pace and enjoy the scenery along the way.
So, without further ado, here’s our 2-day itinerary for a magical Black Forest road trip!
Ultimate Black Forest Road Trip Itinerary
Stay at Hofgut Sternen
Before we dive into our Black Forest itinerary, I want to let you know where we stayed, because this place is a destination in and of itself. We spent 2 nights at Hofgut Sternen, located in what’s known as The Black Forest Village resort complex.
This is a historical hotel that has welcomed many famous guests including Marie Antoinette – you can see a mural painted on the exterior of the hotel that depicts her arrival after a long journey. Her visit would have been in May 1770 when she was on her way to Paris to marry King Louis XVI, and she would have arrived with an entire entourage made up of 21 state coaches, 36 carriages and 450 horses.
Other famous guests at this hotel have included German poet Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, the French Emperor Napoleon III, and the English novelist Anthony Trollope. So, it’s fair to say you’re in good company if you stay here!
There is also quite a bit to see and do within the Black Forest Village. For starters, you have the Ravenna bridge, which runs directly behind the hotel. This is a railway viaduct that crosses the Ravenna Gorge at a height of 58 meters (you can see the trains go by every few minutes!)
Just behind the bridge, there’s a hiking trail through the woods and it’s what Black Forest dreams are made of! You have a meandering trail through thick forest, a babbling brook flowing across moss-covered stones, fallen logs on a bed of crunchy leaves and squishy pine needles, and a beautiful canopy through which sun rays beam down. The Black Forest is a hiker’s paradise with something new at every turn!
Another popular attraction at Hofgut Sternen is the giant cuckoo clock. This is the largest clock in the entire Black Forest Highlands complete with life-sized dancing figures that emerge on the hour. If you want to take a cuckoo clock back home as a souvenir, you’re in luck because Hofgut Sternen has a shop that sells cuckoo clocks in all shapes and sizes.
And if cuckoo clocks aren’t your thing, there is a glassblowing workshop on site, as well as a shop selling Sternen glass. So as you can see, there’s plenty to do at this Black Forest Village resort!
Take a boat trip on Titisee
One of the towns we visited during our road trip through the Black Forest was Titisee, a small town that sits on the edge of Lake Titisee.
Since Lake Titisee is the main attraction, we joined a boat tour with Drubba Bootsvermietung & Rundfahrten and travelled aboard their ship, Titus, which is a replica of a Roman galley. Local legend says the lake was named after General Titus Flavius Vespasianus, who was Roman Emperor around 69-79 AD. He is said to have camped around this lake during one of his military campaigns, so he called it Titunsee, which today is Titisee.
How much of this is true and how much is myth that has been embellished over the millennia, nobody knows. But regardless, it is a cool spot to visit!
While we were in Titisee, we also ate at Café Seeblick, a relaxed cafe with an outdoor terrace and lake views. Here we tried their süßer Flammkuchen. This is a German-style thin crust pizza and we ordered the dessert version with apples, sultanas and cinnamon. This was my first time trying a sweet dessert pizza, and it won’t be my last!
Hire a row boat in Schluchsee
Another place we really enjoyed on our Black Forest road trip was the town of Schluchsee which sits on the edge of a lake by the same name. This is the largest lake in the Black Forest and also the highest reservoir in Germany.
We enjoyed a leisurely stroll along the lakeside path, and that eventually led us to a boat rental area on the beach. There were row boats, paddle boats, electric boats – you name it!
It was such a beautiful day and the water was so calm that we decided to take out a row boat. It was a really fun experience and a nice way to take in the scenery. I would highly recommend doing so for anyone visiting Schluchsee!
Spend the day in Sankt Blasien
The next stop on our Black Forest road trip itinerary was the town of Sankt Blasien. This is actually a popular health resort town with thermal baths, sauna gardens, and spa facilities. However, since we were only there for the day, we prioritized visiting St. Blasien Cathedral.
The cathedral is dedicated to St. Blasius, the early Christian bishop and martyr, who is also the patron saint of the town of Sankt Blasien in the Black Forest.
What makes this cathedral special is that its early classical cupola is the largest of its kind north of the Alps. It is 36 metres wide, 62 metres high, and a true work of art. The interior is also stark white with very minimal colour in the dome, and the windows along the cupola allow a lot of natural light in.
After visiting the cathedral, we walked over to Dom-Hotel St. Blasien just across the square, where we enjoyed a really nice lunch. Sam ordered the Maultaschen, which is a Swabian dish consisting of sheets of dough filled with minced meat. These were served in der Brühe, so they were simmered in a broth and served like a soup with bits of bacon.
Meanwhile, I ordered the Gulaschsuppe, or Hungarian goulash soup. I opted for a slightly smaller dish because I was really interested in the desserts. And as you know, when you come to the Black Forest, you have to order the Black Forest Cake!
Known as Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte, this is a chocolate sponge cake with a cherry filling, whipped cream and chocolate shavings. Simply marvellous!
And if I can recommend one more thing to try, it would be the Johannisbeereschorle. This was my first time trying currant or gooseberry juice, and I ordered it as a Schorle, so diluted with carbonated water. It was really nice!
Enjoy nature in Menzenschwand
Now let’s talk about beautiful nature spots! Our Black Forest road trip also included a visit to Menzenschwand and what drew us here were the hiking trails.
For anyone interested in a short hike with big rewards, I would say Menzenschwander Waterfall is it!
You can drive right up to the parking lot across from Albhof am Wasserfall and you’ll be up at the waterfall in less than 5 minutes. Alternatively, if you can handle about 30 minutes on foot, you can park at Parkplatz Menzenschwand Hinterdorf and enjoy a scenic walk through a glacier-carved valley.
The hiking trail follows a stream which flows through the gorge and then cascades down the rocks. It’s a beautiful walk that offers plenty of shade and the path meanders down stairs and across a wooden bridge.
Admire the views atop Feldberg
Standing at 1,493 metres, Feldberg is the highest mountain peak in the Black Forest, as well as the state of Baden-Württemberg, and that also makes it the highest mountain peak outside of the German Alps!
In the winter, this is a popular ski resort area, and in the summertime, it’s a nice hiking destination with plenty of trails to choose from.
We decided to take the Feldbergbahn cable car to the top for a scenic view of the Black Forest, and we were in for a treat because it turns out you can even see the Alps from here! I almost couldn’t believe my eyes – at first, I thought I was looking at clouds – but lo and behold, there were snow-capped mountains off on the horizon.
Once you get off at the upper station which sits at an altitude of 1,450 meters, it’s a short walk to the Feldberg Tower viewing platform. We even got to see cows grazing along the way.
Lastly, as a tip, don’t forget to check when the last cable car goes down. We barely caught the last one with minutes to spare, and if you miss it, you’re hiking down!
Black Forest Road Trip: Practical Tips and Planning Notes
That cable car timing tip basically sums up the Black Forest experience: the rewards are genuine, but a little planning makes the difference between a smooth trip and a scramble. Here’s everything practical to get the most out of the route we described above — plus a few detours and food finds worth adding to the list.
Three Scenic Loops Worth Adding
| Loop | Distance | Time | Why Detour? |
|---|---|---|---|
| B500 Schwarzwaldhochstraße (Feldberg to Triberg) | 110 km | 2 hrs without stops | Germany’s highest panoramic road; hairpins, heath-covered moors and cuckoo-clock hamlets. |
| Wine and Waterfalls Trail (Freiburg to Kaiserstuhl to Triberg to Gengenbach) | 145 km | 3 hrs | Combines volcanic vineyards with the 163 m Triberg Falls and half-timbered towns. |
| Spa Hop South (Baden-Baden to Mummelsee to Bad Wildbad to Calw) | 120 km | 2.5 hrs | Hot-spring bathing, lake legends and the funicular to treetop walks. |
The Schwarzwaldhochstraße (B500) is quiet if you hit the road by 8am. Motorcycle convoys tend to arrive mid-morning — by then you can be sipping coffee beside a mirror-still mountain lake.
When to Go: Seasons at a Glance
| Season | What You’ll Love | What to Know |
|---|---|---|
| Spring (Apr–Jun) | Waterfalls in full roar, wild garlic scenting the ravines, quieter trails. | Alpine passes can still see surprise flurries in April — carry a fleece. |
| Summer (Jul–Aug) | Perfect swim temperatures (22–24°C) in Titisee and Schluchsee, open-air beer gardens. | Book lakeside hotels months ahead; Sunday afternoon traffic towards Freiburg can crawl. |
| Autumn (Sept–Oct) | Rust-orange larches, wine harvest festivals, crisp hiking weather. | Shorter daylight — plan drives so you’re off the switchbacks before dusk. |
| Winter (Dec–Mar) | Snow-dusted pines, Christmas markets, Feldberg ski runs. | Carry chains; the Ravennaschlucht Advent market near Hofgut Sternen is magical but parking fills fast — shuttle bus from Hinterzarten is easier. |
What to Eat in the Black Forest
Hearty staples worth seeking out:
- Vesperplatte — the Black Forest charcuterie board: smoked ham, farmhouse cheeses, seed-crusted bread and a dab of horseradish. Order one between two and you’ll still struggle to finish it.
- Schäufele — cured pork shoulder slow-braised in white wine until it falls off the bone. Pairs well with a malty Rothaus Tannenzäpfle, brewed just up the road in Grafenhausen.
- Käsespätzle — hand-pressed egg noodles blanketed in Emmentaler with crispy onions on top. Germany’s answer to comfort food; good carb-loading before a long hike.
Sweet things worth saving room for:
- Kirschwasser sorbet — cherry-brandy ice cream at roadside farm cafés. Adults only, and worth the detour.
- Ofenschlupfer — cinnamon-apple bread pudding with vanilla sauce; ideal on drizzly afternoons.
A few stops worth pinning before you go:
- Hofgut Sternen Hofladen (at Hofgut Sternen, Ravenna Gorge area) — take-home jars of house-made cranberry jam and fir-tree honey from the hotel’s own farm shop.
- Rothaus Brewery GenussWelt (Grafenhausen, about 15 km from Schluchsee) — Germany’s highest brewery at 1,000m, with a beer garden open May to October, brewery tours (around €9), and a restaurant serving regional food. The Tannenzäpfle tastes better fresh from the source — it genuinely does.
Packing for a Black Forest Road Trip
- Layering system — mornings at 1,200 m can be 10°C cooler than valley towns; a fleece and light shell earn their place in the boot.
- Fold-flat picnic blanket — every bend seems to reveal a meadow begging for a break.
- Cash — park-and-pay machines and farm-gate kiosks are often coin-operated.
- Reusable mug — some Schwarzwald cafés offer small discounts if you bring your own.
- Offline maps — cell signal flickers between steep gorges; download the area in Google Maps or Maps.me before you set off.
Rainy Day Alternatives
Forecast looking grey? These weather-proof stops slot in easily:
- Schwarzwaldmuseum, Triberg — clocks, costumes and a room-size model logging train (allow about 1.5 hours).
- Vogtsbauernhof Open-Air Museum — many barns are covered; watch blacksmiths, millers and distillers work under shelter.
- Baden-Baden Thermal Baths — the classic Roman-Irish circuit at Friedrichsbad or the modern Caracalla Spa.
- Glass Factory at Dorotheenhütte — blow your own glass bauble, browse the Christmas village, and linger over strudel in the panoramic café.
If You Have an Extra Day
| Extra Day Theme | Must-See | Driving Anchor |
|---|---|---|
| Waterfall Wander | Geroldsauer, Allerheiligen and Gertelbach cascades | Base yourself in Baden-Baden |
| Fairy-Tale Villages | Gengenbach, Sasbachwalden, Schiltach | Overnight in atmospheric Gengenbach |
| Wine and Wellness | Riesling tastings along the Ortenau Trail plus evening in a vineyard spa | Stay at a Weingut guesthouse near Durbach |
| Clock and Craft Circuit | Clock-makers in Schonach, timber-carvers in Furtwangen, textile mills in St. Georgen | Sleep above the museum at Furtwangen |
Budget at a Glance
| Expense | Low-Key Traveller | Comfort Seeker |
|---|---|---|
| Car hire (2 days) | €90 compact | €140 SUV or EV |
| Fuel or charging | €25 petrol or €15 electric | €35 petrol |
| Mid-range hotel | €110 double | €190 double (spa hotel) |
| Daily food | €35 per person (picnic lunches) | €60 per person (restaurant lunches) |
| Activities | €20 (cable car and boat) | €45 (add spa, museum) |
| 2-Day Total (per couple) | ~€365 | ~€640 |
Where to Stay in the Black Forest
We stayed at Hofgut Sternen, which is detailed in the itinerary above and makes a brilliant central base for this route. For those looking at alternatives — or planning a longer stay — here are three confirmed properties that work well with the stops in this itinerary:
- Treschers Schwarzwald Hotel, Titisee — a historic 4-star family-run hotel sitting directly on Lake Titisee with a private beach and a heated outdoor panoramic pool. Excellent lakeside position for Day 1 activities; rated 9.0 on Booking.com. Rooms with direct lake views are worth specifying when you book.
- Alemannenhof Boutique Hotel am Titisee — a 4-star boutique also on the lake shores near Hinterzarten, with spa facilities, a private beach and lake-view rooms from every floor. A slightly more personal alternative to the larger hotels in Titisee-Neustadt.
- Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten am Schluchsee — a 5-star wellness hotel at Schluchsee with around 4,000 square metres of spa at 1,000m altitude. Indoor and outdoor pools, Ayurveda treatments, and a panoramic restaurant. Well positioned for the Schluchsee boat-hire section of the route and a genuinely indulgent overnight if you want to extend the trip.
Black Forest Road Trip FAQ
1) What’s the best 2-day route for a first visit?
Base yourself at Hofgut Sternen in the Ravenna Gorge, spend Day 1 around Titisee, Schluchsee and Sankt Blasien, and Day 2 on Menzenschwand Waterfall, the Feldberg cable car and the scenic B500 segments. Short drives, varied scenery — lakes, cathedral domes, waterfalls and mountaintop views across two days.
2) Is Hofgut Sternen worth it beyond being a hotel?
Yes — the property works as a small destination in itself. The Ravenna railway viaduct runs directly behind the hotel, forest trails start from the door, the giant cuckoo clock with life-sized hourly figures is genuinely entertaining, and there’s a glassblowing workshop and cuckoo-clock shop on site. It’s a nice place to spend an evening without going anywhere.
3) Titisee vs. Schluchsee — how do they differ?
Titisee is livelier and more compact, with classic lake cruises (we rode the Titus, a replica Roman galley), cafés, and easy promenades. Schluchsee is larger and calmer — better for self-hire row boats, electric boats or paddle boats, and longer shoreline walks without the busier village atmosphere.
4) What’s one cultural stop not to miss?
St. Blasien Cathedral. Its early-classical dome — 62 metres high, 36 metres wide, the largest of its kind north of the Alps — fills a stark-white interior with natural light in a way that’s genuinely surprising. Pair with lunch across the square at Dom-Hotel St. Blasien (the Maultaschen in broth is worth ordering).
5) Short hike with a big payoff?
Menzenschwander Waterfall. Park by Albhof am Wasserfall for a 5-minute stroll, or start at Parkplatz Menzenschwand Hinterdorf for a 30-minute valley walk along the stream and wooden bridges. Either way, it’s the kind of trail that looks exactly like you imagined the Black Forest would look.
6) How do I get the best Feldberg views?
Take the Feldbergbahn to the upper station, then walk to the Feldberg Tower lookout. On clear days you can see the Alps — I thought I was looking at clouds until I realized those were actually snow-capped mountains. Check the last gondola time before you head up. We nearly hiked down.
7) What local foods should I plan around?
A lake-view süßer Flammkuchen (apple, sultana and cinnamon dessert tarte flambée) at Titisee’s Café Seeblick, Maultaschen in broth at Sankt Blasien, and the Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte wherever it comes fresh. To drink: Johannisbeer-Schorle, a currant juice diluted with sparkling water — one of those things you don’t expect to like and then keep ordering.
8) Any quick packing tips?
Layers are essential — ridge tops can be around 10°C cooler than the valley towns. Bring a rain shell and shoes with grip for wet trails. Carry cash and coins for small parking machines and farm kiosks. Download offline maps before entering gorge areas where signal drops out.
9) Best season for this 2-day plan?
It works genuinely well in all four seasons. Spring brings the waterfalls at full roar and quieter trails; summer is peak swimming and boat-hire time; autumn delivers foliage and wine harvest festivals; winter means snow-dusted forest scenes and Feldberg skiing. In winter carry chains and confirm gondola operations before setting out.
10) Any scenic detours if I have extra time?
Drive a stretch of the B500 Schwarzwaldhochstraße, add the Triberg Waterfalls or the half-timbered town of Gengenbach, or head to Baden-Baden for a spa afternoon. All of these pair naturally with the main route without adding much driving.
11) Do I need to prebook anything?
In summer and autumn foliage weekends, prebook accommodation, boat hires if you need a fixed time slot, and Feldbergbahn on the busiest days. Restaurants are generally walk-in at lunch; dinner bookings help in the smaller towns. The Hofgut Sternen hotel often fills up, especially in peak summer — book early.
12) Is this road trip dog-friendly?
Very much so. The lakeside paths at Titisee and Schluchsee, the Menzenschwand trails and many of the cafés are happy to welcome dogs on a lead. Confirm pet policies with your hotel in advance, and note that some interiors (cathedral, museums) don’t allow them.
And that concludes our short but action-packed 2-day road trip in Germany’s Black Forest! I hope this gave you a few ideas of some things to do and places to visit on your own travels.
We then continued onwards to Freiburg for 48 hours if you want to read more about our trip.
This trip was made possible in partnership with the German National Tourist Board.