A Road Trip to the Cowal Highland Gathering in Dunoon

At the end of August, I found myself back in Scotland for my third visit to this beautiful country and lucky for me, this trip coincided with two things I had been wanting to experience for a while: one was seeing the glens covered in purple heather and the other was attending the Highland Games!

I attended my first ever Highlands Games a few summers back in Fredericton, Canada, and that was a lot of fun. They had a ceilidh, Gaelic lessons, Highlands dancing, as well as a slew of athletic events including the famed caber toss where a massive pole (tree trunk!) is tossed end over end. I had been wanting to attend the ‘real thing’ ever since, and this summer was my chance!

After spending a few days in Glasgow, it was finally time for the big event, so Sam and I hopped in our rental car and set out towards our destination. Next stop: the Cowal Highland Gathering in Dunoon!

Journey to Dunoon: A Scenic Scottish Road Trip

The town of Dunoon is located on the west shore of the upper Firth of Clyde in Argyll and Bute, and we were treated to some pretty amazing landscapes on the drive over. Technically, we could have just taken a ferry across and cut our travel time, but we wanted lochs, we wanted forests, and we wanted winding roads to soak in the beauty of nature, so we were more than glad to tack on a few extra kilometres.

Our route took us west out of Glasgow and then north along the shores of Loch Lomond and The Trossachs National Park. Loch Lomond is the largest loch in Scotland and probably the most famous after Loch Ness, so we pulled over to stretch our legs and take some photos – unfortunately, there was no sighting of Nessie’s cousin!

From there we continued through Arrochar, over the Rest and Be Thankful lookout point, along Loch Fyne, through Strachur, and down the shores of Loch Eck before arriving in Dunoon…in the middle of a torrential downpour!

As there was little chance of sightseeing considering the weather, we grabbed a quick bite of dinner in town, and then continued on to the nearby town of Innellan where we would be spending the night.

Staying in a cozy AirBnB Historic Mansion in Innellan

Now I feel like I say this a lot, but we ended up at one of the coolest little AirBnBs ever!

We had a room in a merchant’s mansion from the 1850s, our bedroom had views overlooking the water, and there was a beautiful Golden Retriever willing to accept all the pets and belly rubs in the world. We also had an amazing host who was a classical musician, so we actually ended up spending part of the evening together chatting in his dining room and having tea and biscuits (as you do!), which was really cool.

Lately, Sam and I have been staying in AirBnBs where we have the whole space to ourselves, so it was nice having a host for a change and to hear about life in this little corner of Scotland.

Also, that night I had one of the best sleeps of my life. I think it was the combination of that cool late-summer air, the fluffiest duvet and pillows, and the tranquillity of the town, all combined to offer an amazing night’s rest.

Experiencing the Cowal Highland Gathering: Scottish Highland Event

The following morning we got up bright and early and drove from Innellan to Dunoon. It was a short 15-minute drive and we arrived just as they were setting up for the Cowal Games.

This is the largest of all the Highland Games in the world attracting over 3,000 competitors and 20,000 spectators from around the world, so it was pretty cool to be in attendance!

Having only had a quick cup of tea before we ran out the door, we wandered over to the food truck area inside the grounds. Here we saw some Scottish classics listed on the menu, so we had to dig in.

It may have been way too early for lunch, but I ordered myself a plate of beef stovies (a potato mash with onions, vegetables, and different meats) and Sam got himself some haggis with neeps and tatties (sheep’s pluck with turnips and potatoes on the side). It was my first time trying beef stovies and I really enjoyed it – hearty, filling and perfect to kick start a busy day.

And then, it was time for some games!

What to Expect at the Highland Games in Scotland

The games were broken down into 4 main categories, and even though we were only there for a day, we still managed to see a bit of everything.

Highland Dancing – The Cowal Highland Gathering hosted the Scottish and World Championships, so there were lots of international dancers – some even from Canada! We watched part of the competition but the dance that really caught my eye was the Scottish Sword Dance. This is a victory dance meaning that if the Scots won in battle, they would dance over their enemies weapons to celebrate a return home to their wives and families.

Piping – This category was split into pipe bands and solo piping. The solo piping had taken place the previous day, but we got to watch the bands compete in the Cowal Pipe Band Championship. Apparently, at the very end of the event, all of the pipe bands get together and salute the Chieftain to the tune of ‘Highland Laddie’. We missed this but I can only imagine what 1,000+ pipers playing in unison sounds like!

Wrestling – This event is focused on Scottish backhold wrestling which has been practiced since the 8th century and was also part of the earliest Highland Games! This form of wrestling involves wrestlers gripping each other around the waist, the right hand under the opponent’s left arm and the chin resting on the opposite right shoulder. If the wrestler breaks his hold or touches the ground with any part of his body except his feet, he loses.

Heavy Athletics

Heavy Athletics – Now this is what I was most looking forward to! The heavy athletics are an amazing display of human strength and a celebration of a tradition that has been passed down over the centuries. It usually features the following events:

• Caber toss: Where competitors toss a caber so that it turns end over end.
• Stone put: Similar to throwing a shot put, except instead of a steel shot, they use a large stone.
• Scottish hammer throw: A round metal ball attached to a hammer is whirled and then thrown over the shoulder.
• Weight throw: A combination of two events where light and heavy weights with a chain attached to a handle are thrown.
• Weight over the bar: The athlete has to throw a weight with a handle over their head and over a bar.
• Sheaf toss: Where a bundle of straw (the sheaf) wrapped in a burlap bag is tossed vertically with a pitchfork over a raised bar.

Phewww! I’m just exhausted thinking of the strength required to compete in these events. I’ll just let the next few photos do the talking.

And aside from all of these competitions, there’s actually quite a bit more to do at the games! There was also a Ceilidh tent showcasing some homegrown talent, food trucks where you could tuck into local cuisine, numerous games and workshops for children, as well as other events taking place across town like the street parade and fireworks display, a classic cars showcase, and numerous races.

All in all, plenty to keep busy!

Driving Back to Glasgow: Scenic Stops Along the Way

We had to leave Dunoon in the late afternoon to go back to Glasgow and catch our flight, so we didn’t get to watch the closing ceremony for the Cowal Highland Gathering, but we did have a beautiful drive back.

Since we had improved weather this time, we actually managed to make a few stops, first at Benmore after we spotted a field full of sheep (yes, we are those tourists!), and then at the Rest And Be Thankful lookout point because with a name like that, you can’t help but obey!

A Few Tips for Attending the Cowal Highland Games

Now a few tips to keep in mind in case you find yourself attending the Highland Games next year:

• The Cowal Highland Gathering is held annually in the town of Dunoon on the Cowal Peninsula in Argyll and Bute on the last weekend in August.
• You’re going to be spending the whole day outdoors, so it’s a good idea to dress for unpredictable Scottish weather. Keep in mind that the grounds get very muddy by the end of the day. I wore rain boots, a rain jacket, a scarf and toque (it was surprisingly chilly for August!), and I also kept my umbrella handy and had to pull it out a few times.
• Locals bring their own tents and lawn chairs (a clever move!) so something to consider if you’re planning on sticking around all day.
• The Cowal Games are a popular event so it’s a good idea to book your accommodations well in advance. If you want to snag a good parking spot near the grounds, it’s also a good idea to arrive early before the games begin!
• Tickets for the Cowal Games can be purchased at the ticketing booth just outside the grounds, or you can just get them online to avoid the long lines.

Road Trip Planning: Logistics, Stops and Where to Stay

Ferry or Forest Drive: Your Route Options

A practical approach: take one route in and the other out. The scenic drive through Loch Lomond works well for the journey there when you have energy for viewpoint stops; the ferry is a quicker return if you need to catch a flight or a meal in Glasgow.

Where to Stay for the Cowal Games

Accommodation around Dunoon fills early for Games weekend — particularly the last weekend of August. If you can, book by spring. Airbnb cottages and guesthouses in Innellan and Kirn (the smaller villages just south and north of Dunoon) are worth searching for, as they tend to offer a more personal experience than the central hotels — the kind of stay where you end up having tea with your host rather than checking in at a front desk. For those who want a bookable hotel:

• Enmore Hotel — a Victorian country house hotel in Kirn, a short distance from Dunoon and close to the games shuttle route. One of the most characterful places to stay in the area, with bay views and a proper Scottish breakfast.
• The Royal Hotel Dunoon — a well-placed seafront hotel in the centre of Dunoon town, walking distance from the games grounds during peak periods. A reliable and central option if you prefer being in the thick of things.
• Wild camping — for those who want something different, the Scottish Outdoor Access Code permits responsible wild camping along the Cowal Peninsula. Ardentinny Beach is a popular spot, with lapping water and hillside views. Bring midge spray and leave no trace.

Day trips to Dunoon from Glasgow are also possible if you combine the ferry with an early start, though staying locally means you get more of the atmosphere — including the street parade and fireworks in the evening.

Beyond the Games: Walks and Stops Worth Adding

1. Puck’s Glen — a misty gorge walk with mossy bridges and stone steps, roughly a 1.5-hour circular trail off the A815. Wear waterproof boots; the steps are perpetually damp.
2. Benmore Botanic Garden — avenue of giant redwoods and a hillside Himalayan fernery. One of the Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh’s satellite sites and considerably more peaceful than the Edinburgh gardens. Check current admission prices before visiting.
3. Argyll Coffee Roasters — a local roastery in Sandbank worth a stop for coffee and beans to take on the road.
4. Castle House Museum — a compact local history museum in Dunoon covering the Victorian seaside era and wartime Atlantic convoys, with a rooftop terrace for good views over the town. Modest entry fee.
5. Loch Eck — kayak hire is available on the loch for a post-games paddle on remarkably calm water, framed by heather-covered hills. Worth asking locally about current availability.

Food and Drink in Dunoon

• Black of Dunoon Bakery — Scotch pies and tablet are the draws here. A good early-morning stop before the games begin, or between events.
• The 51st State Bar & Grill — a reliable option when you have eaten enough haggis for one day. Good craft beer selection and hearty comfort food.
• The Lorne Bar — well regarded for cask ales and the kind of impromptu fiddle sessions that tend to start after the prize-givings wrap up. Arrive early to get a seat.

Budget at a Glance

Roughly £325 per person with shared wheels and mid-range accommodation — less than many people spend on a single Edinburgh Festival Fringe weekend, and with considerably more open sky.

Cowal Highland Gathering FAQ

What is the Cowal Highland Gathering?

One of the world’s largest Highland Games, held in Dunoon at the end of August. It features Highland dancing including the Scottish and World Championships, pipe bands, heavy athletics (caber toss, hammer throw, stone put and more), Scottish backhold wrestling, a street parade, ceilidh tent, fireworks, children’s workshops and extensive food stalls.

When is it and how long should I plan for?

It runs on the last weekend of August. A single full day covers the main events, but two days lets you see finals, pipe band championships and explore Dunoon and the nearby walks without feeling rushed.

Ferry or scenic drive — which is better?

Both, if you can manage it. From Glasgow you can either:

• Take Western Ferries (Gourock → Hunter’s Quay) for the fastest crossing, or
• Drive the Loch Lomond – Rest and Be Thankful – Loch Fyne – Loch Eck route for peak scenery. Many visitors do one route in, the other out.

Where should I stay and how early should I book?

Dunoon and nearby Innellan and Kirn fill fast for Games weekend. Book by spring if possible. Options include Victorian guesthouses and hotels (the Enmore Hotel in Kirn and The Royal Hotel in Dunoon are both worth searching on Stay22), Airbnb cottages along the coast, and wild camping where permitted.

What should I wear for a Scottish August?

Waterproof boots or wellies, a rain jacket, warm layers, a scarf and toque, and a compact umbrella. The grounds get muddy by late afternoon. Pack sunscreen too — Scottish sunshine does occasionally appear between squalls and will catch you out.

How do tickets work and can I buy on the day?

You can buy online in advance to avoid queues, or at the ticket booth outside the grounds. Arrive early for better parking and to catch the morning heats before the crowds build.

What should I prioritise if I only have one day?

Heavy Athletics for the caber toss and weight throws, Highland dancing finals if the schedule allows, the Pipe Band Championship sessions, and a walk through the food and ceilidh tent areas. If timing works out, the massed bands salute near the close of the event is genuinely worth staying for.

What’s good to eat on site?

The food trucks inside the grounds carry Scottish classics — beef stovies, haggis with neeps and tatties, pies and baked goods. In town, the Black of Dunoon Bakery is a good early stop. The Lorne Bar works well post-games for cask ale and the chance of fiddle music.

Any tips for photos and managing the crowds?

Find a position near the edges of the main rings rather than dead centre — slight rises or gentle bends give you a layered view with the hills in the background. Use a longer lens for the athletics and a fast shutter for the dancing. Early entry gives cleaner sightlines; late afternoon light, if the clouds part, adds depth and warmth to the kilts and flags.

What else can I do near Dunoon?

Puck’s Glen for the fairy gorge walk, Benmore Botanic Garden for the giant redwoods, shoreline strolls from Innellan south, and Loch Eck for kayaking. On the drives, Rest and Be Thankful and the green canyon section near Benmore are both worth a stop.

What should I budget for a long weekend?

Around £325 per person covers car hire and fuel (shared), two nights’ accommodation, a day ticket, meals and drinks, and small extras. Wild camping brings that down considerably; a Victorian hotel at peak weekend pricing will push it up.

Any etiquette or practical points worth knowing?

Follow stewards’ directions, respect ring and competition boundaries, keep chairs and tents to designated areas, and pack out your litter. Weather can shift fast — secure any light gear between squalls. Factor in extra time for post-event traffic on the roads out of Dunoon.

Have you ever attended the Highland Games?
Where and what was it like?