Today I’m picking favourites and I have no qualms about it. We spent a whole month travelling across India – 7 destinations in total – but the one that I’m still thinking about is Jaisalmer. This Jaisalmer travel guide will show you what makes this place so special!
Located in the Thar Desert just 30 kilometres from the border with Pakistan means that getting to Jaisalmer was quite the journey – 18 hours by train from Delhi to be precise! – but it was worth it in the end to explore the famed Golden City.
We had a total of 3 days here and I would have gladly stayed a week if the rest of Rajasthan hadn’t been calling, so here’s a little glimpse at why I enjoyed visiting Jaisalmer so much and how you can too.
Ultimate Jaisalmer Trip: Things to Do, See, Eat, Drink & Experience in Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, India
Get lost inside Jaisalmer Fort
The main attraction in this city is Jaisalmer Fort, but believe me when I tell you that this is a place you’re going to want to revisit time and time again.
I made it to Jaisalmer Fort three days in a row and I managed to see something new on each visit. The layout of the city makes the place feel like a bit of a maze, which means you can always get lost in a new direction.
Narrow, twisting alleys break away from the main road, leading you up and down crooked staircases, and then every once in a while these will spit you out along the fort’s outer walls where you can see across the city and off into the desert.
There is also no shortage of rooftop restaurants, so be willing to climb the extra three or four flights of stairs to enjoy a drink with a view, and then give your legs a break!
Shop for Rajasthani souvenirs
Oh, the shopping! There is a reason why my suitcase gained a few extra pounds in Jaisalmer. Certain sections of the fort are like a bazaar where you can find all sorts of little treasures. So what exactly did we find?
Well, Sam and I purchased a total of four wall hangings; my favourite was a white canvas with quotidian scenes embroidered in rainbow colours. We also picked up a few pillow covers with elephant designs in gold, pink, and blue. And aside from that, I came across an artist who paints bird and flower motifs on old weathered postcards with Hindi writing, so I picked up a small collection which I’d like to frame at some point.
I was also tempted by peacock doorknobs, carved statuettes and antique masks, but I had to draw the line somewhere! Suffice it to say that if you enjoy shopping, you’ll love Jaisalmer’s offerings.
Visit the Jain Temples
While wandering through Jaisalmer Fort, we also came across the Jain Temples. These structures date back to the 12th and 15th centuries and like most of the buildings you’ll find in the city, these too are made of yellow sandstone.
You may be tempted to walk past them especially if there’s a large tour group gathered outside, but trust me, it’s worth going in to see the craftsmanship. While the temples are relatively simple from the exterior, once you set foot inside you’ll enter a world of intricate stone carvings that carry your eyes from floor to ceiling.
Admission tickets can be purchased in the small square directly across from the temples. Just keep in mind that because these temples are active places of worship, they are only open to visitors from 8 in the morning until noon, so you’ll want to plan your visit accordingly.
Admire all the Havelis
Haveli is the word used for old mansions found across India and Jaisalmer has a few worth seeking out!
Patwon ki Haveli: This is the most famed haveli in Jaisalmer. It is also the largest haveli in the city, but that being said, it’s a combination of 5 structures. The building was commissioned by Guman Chand Patwa, who was a wealthy jewelry trader, and because he had 5 sons he ordered the construction of 5 stories, one for each of his children.
Nathmalji ki Haveli: This haveli was built as the residence of the then Prime Minister of Jaisalmer, Diwan Mohata Nathmal. The construction was carried out by two brothers who had a bit of a competitive edge. They both started building simultaneously at opposite ends and struggled with uniformity, which meant the building ended up having a bit of an irregular shape.
Salim Singh ki Haveli: This next one is nicknamed the Peacock Haveli. This 300-year-old structure was built on top of an even older haveli, and it is still occupied today by a descendant of its original owner.
Speaking of havelis, you can’t miss the Jaisalmer Fort Palace Museum & Heritage Center, which was a former royal residence. You can do an audio tour, but I was happy to just wander around and take pictures.
And since we’re on the topic of architecture, if you come with a bit more time or are feeling particularly ambitious, you can also visit Bada Bagh, which is a complex north of Jaisalmer that contains royal cenotaphs (empty tombs) that look like dome-shaped pavilions. I didn’t get to visit this place but it looks beautiful in photos.
Go camel trekking in the Thar Desert
This Jaisalmer travel guide wouldn’t be complete without mentioning camel trekking, after all, the city is located in the Thar Desert! There are two popular offerings that you can find across the town. The first is a sunset tour that involves driving out to the desert, doing a camel safari, having a fire-cooked dinner, and doing a bit of stargazing. The second option includes all of the above but also involves spending the night in the desert, typically sleeping outdoors around a campfire using mats and a sleeping bag.
Longer tours can be arranged – my husband Sam did a 4-day camel safari when he visited a few years back – but if you’re not into camping, then the sunset tour can give you a taste of what that’s like.
Another alternative to the camel safari is spending the night in a desert camp. These range from simple tented camps geared at backpackers to luxury tented camps that will make you feel like you’re glamping with the royals.
Take a boat ride on Gadisar Lake
Gadisar Lake is a manmade lake that was built in the 14th century in order to deal with the population’s water needs – because when you live in the desert, water is a major concern!
Today the lake is a popular spot with visitors as you can rent paddle boats to take you out on the water. The lake’s shore is lined with temples and pavilions (some of them are even out on the water), so it’s quite scenic, especially at sunset.
Stay in a haveli-inspired hotel
If you want to feel like royalty, you need to book yourself into a haveli. We stayed at the Tokyo Palace Hotel and loved it!
I know the name is a bit of a geographic mismatch, but that aside, it’s a really cool property. The hotel was built in the haveli-style, which means you get a bit of Old World charm with all the modern conveniences.
We stayed in the Deluxe Room which runs you about $22 USD per night, and my favourite feature was the day bed, because check out that window! They also have 6-bed dorms starting out at $2 so there really is something for every budget.
Another thing that I loved about this hotel is that their rooftop allowed us to catch the sun rising over the desert and it was pure magic every morning. The sun rose with a bold and fiery intensity painting the sky deep shades of mauve and lavender, and most mornings a small group of guests would gather together to watch it quietly.
If that hotel is fully booked, you can find similar style accommodations at: Hotel Garh Jaisal Haveli, Hotel Helsinki House, or Hotel Pleasant Haveli. These are some of the top-rated haveli-style hotels in Jaisalmer.
And that’s a little taste of Jaisalmer. I hope these photos sparked your interest in the city; it’s a long way to get there, but to me, Jaisalmer is the jewel of the Thar Desert, so go!
Are you visiting Jaisalmer?
PIN THIS JAISALMER TRAVEL GUIDE FOR LATER!
Planning Your Jaisalmer Adventure: Practical Tips, Itineraries, Costs & Advice
When to Go & How Long to Stay
Best season:
- October–March: Dry, sunny, and (relatively) cool. Expect crisp mornings and warm afternoons—ideal for fort wanders and desert sunsets.
- April–June: Sizzling. Sightseeing is possible early/late, but the heat is no joke.
- July–September: Monsoon brings humidity and occasional showers; the desert scrubs turn greener.
How many days?
- Quick trip: 2 full days (fort + havelis + lake + sunset dunes).
- Sweet spot: 3–4 days so you can mix slow fort mornings with a Gadisar boat ride, an ethical camel or jeep desert experience, and a day trip to cenotaphs or a ghost village.
- Leisurely: 5+ days if you want long coffees on rooftops, a night in the dunes, and more time to wander the fort’s tiny ateliers.
Getting to Jaisalmer: Transportation Guide
Jaisalmer sits deep in the Thar, so getting there is part of the adventure.
Common routes & vibes
| Route | Typical Time | Vibe | Why Choose It | Heads-Up |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Overnight train from Delhi | 16–18 hrs | Classic Indian rail journey | Sleep your way to the desert; social & scenic | Book AC2/AC3 early in high season |
| Train from Jodhpur | 5–6 hrs | Easy hop | Great add-on if you’re doing a Rajasthan loop | Day trains = fort arrival by afternoon |
| Flight to Jaisalmer (seasonal) | 1.5–2 hrs (from major hubs) | Time-saver | Skip long hauls if short on time | Limited schedules; price can spike |
| Bus/Car from Jodhpur/Jaipur | 5–10 hrs | Road trip | Flex stops (Bikaner, Pokaran) | Bring water; daytime heat & occasional bumps |
Ticket tips
- Trains: Aim for AC3 (budget-friendly, comfortable) or AC2 (more privacy). Keep a soft scarf or light blanket—the AC can be enthusiastic at 3 a.m.
- Buses: Book reputable operators; night buses exist but day runs are gentler on nerves.
- Cars: A private car/driver between desert towns gives you spontaneous chai stops and photo breaks.
Sleep Inside the Fort or Outside? (The Great Jaisalmer Debate)
| Stay Area | Pros | Cons | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Inside Jaisalmer Fort | Storybook lanes, step-out sightseeing, dreamy rooftops | Space is tight, stairs everywhere, limited vehicle access, water/sanitation load on a living fort | History nerds, photographers, anyone chasing that “I live in a haveli” feeling |
| Outside the Fort (fort-view lanes) | Easier access, wider room choices, great fort views | You’ll walk/ride in daily | Value seekers who still want views |
| Desert Camps (outside city) | Starry skies, firelit dinners, dunes at dawn | Transfer time, sand everywhere (the good kind) | A one-night spoil or glamping experience |
Choosing Your Desert Experience (Camel? Jeep? Camp Under the Milky Way?)
| Experience | What It Is | Time | Comfort Level | Who Loves It |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sunset Camel Ride | Short camel trek to dunes + chai + sunset | 3–4 hrs | Moderate (camel saddles are…memorable) | First-timers, romantics, photographers |
| Overnight Desert Bivvy | Camel or jeep to remote dunes + simple dinner + sleep under stars | 18–20 hrs | Rustic (mats/sleeping bag) | Stargazers, minimalists |
| Luxury Desert Camp | Transfer by jeep + tent with real beds + dinner & folk music | 1 night | High | Glampers, special occasions |
| Jeep Dune Drive | Jeep to farther dunes for sunset/stargazing; no camel | 3–4 hrs | Comfortable | Families, anyone with back/hip concerns |
Ethical Camel Trekking (So You Can Feel Good About That Sunset)
- Ask about camel care: Water/rest schedule, shade, and load limits. A healthy camel is alert, well-fed, with no obvious sores at the saddle points.
- Choose small groups: Less stress on animals and the dunes.
- Pack out everything: Don’t leave bottles or snack wrappers behind; the desert remembers.
Desert Camp Types at a Glance
| Tier | Sleeps | Bathroom | Dining | Extras |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Backpacker | Cots/mats | Shared (basic) | Thali around campfire | Big skies, bigger stories |
| Mid-Range Tented | Proper bed | En-suite or semi-private | Buffet + folk music | Power banks/limited charging |
| Luxury Glamping | King bed, linens | En-suite with hot water | Multi-course dinner | Generators, curated experiences |
Three Easy Mini-Itineraries
24 Hours: Golden City Express
- AM: Fort wander—Jain Temples (before noon), Palace Museum, a haveli or two.
- Lunch: Rooftop thali with a fort wall breeze.
- PM: Gadisar Lake paddle + sunset viewpoint.
- Evening: Acoustic folk music over masala chai.
48 Hours: Fort + Dunes (My Favorite Combo)
- Day 1: Fort, havelis (Patwon ki, Nathmalji ki), bazaar shopping.
- Day 2 AM: Lazy breakfast + fort lanes you missed.
- Day 2 PM: Sunset desert (camel or jeep), fire-cooked dinner, stargazing.
3–4 Days: Deep Dive Desert Dreaming
- Day 1: Fort + Jain Temples + Palace Museum & Heritage Center.
- Day 2: Havelis + Bada Bagh (golden hour is magic) + lakeside stroll.
- Day 3: Full overnight in dunes (bivvy or luxury camp).
- Day 4: Late breakfast back in town + slow souvenir hunt + rooftop sunset.
Eat Your Way Through Jaisalmer (Rajasthani & Desert Specials)
Order with curiosity and an elastic waistband:
- Ker Sangri: A tangy, earthy desert bean & berry stir-fry—uniquely Marwar.
- Dal Baati Churma: Crunchy wheat baati with dal and sweet churma—comfort on a plate.
- Gatte ki Sabzi: Chickpea flour dumplings in a spiced yogurt gravy.
- Laal Maas/Safed Maas: Fiery red chili mutton vs. creamy white version (regional staples).
- Pyaaz Kachori & Mirchi Vada: Street-snack royalty.
- Kulhad Chai & Lassi: Clay-cup tea and thick, cooling yogurt drinks.
- Ghevar, Rabri, Malpua: For those afternoon sugar cravings.
- Bhang Lassi: Legal only from government-authorized shops; know your limits and your plans—never before a camel/jeep ride.
Rooftop ritual: A slow sunset curry while the fort blushes gold → pink → lavender. It never gets old.
Shopping Without the Baggage
The bazaars inside and around the fort are treasure-packed.
What to Look For
- Embroidered wall hangings & pillow covers: Mirror work, patchwork, vintage textiles.
- Miniature paintings: Birds, flora, desert life on old papers/postcards.
- Brass knobs & hardware: Peacock motifs, elephant handles, door knockers.
- Leather journals & Mojari shoes: Soft, handmade, and very giftable.
- Carved stone statuettes: Choose small pieces for safer transport.
Bargaining Etiquette
- Smile, admire the craft, and ask for the “best price.”
- Counter at ~60–70% of the first quote; meet happily in the middle.
- Cash often yields better deals; small bills are golden.
- If you’re not feeling it, a gentle “maybe later” works wonders.
Pack & Ship
- Ask for bubble wrap + an inner cloth wrap.
- Keep fragile items in your carry-on.
- Larger items? Shops can arrange reputable shipping—document everything and take a snap of the package/receipt.
Photo Spots & Best Light (Where the Golden City Glows)
- Fort Ramparts: Early morning for long shadows and empty lanes.
- Jain Temples: Intricate carvings under soft, pre-noon light.
- Gadisar Lake: Mirror-calm reflections at sunrise and peachy sunsets.
- Vyas Chhatri (Cenotaphs): Silhouetted domes at golden hour—bring a wide lens.
- Bada Bagh: The cenotaphs hum at sunset; arrive 60–90 minutes early.
- Rooftop Cafés: Telephoto lens for compressing layers of jharokhas and terraces.
Culture & Respect (The Fort is a Neighborhood, Too)
- Temples: Shoulders/knees covered; remove shoes; move quietly; ask before photographing people.
- Havelis & Homes: Doorways and window frames are beloved—photograph from a respectful distance.
- Cows, Camels, Dogs: Give space; they have right of way (always).
- Language: Namaste (hello), Dhanyavaad (thank you), Kitne ka? (how much?).
Practicalities You’ll Be Glad You Knew
- Money: ATMs exist but can be fickle—carry a mix of cash and card. Small notes help for autos and snacks.
- SIM & Signal: Pick up an Indian SIM earlier in your route (big cities are easiest). Signal is decent in town, spotty in the dunes.
- Power: Standard Indian sockets; bring a universal adaptor and a small power strip if you travel gadget-heavy.
- Heat & Hydration: Electrolyte packets are heroes. Cover up midday; chase shade.
- Water & Waste: Refill a reusable bottle where possible; say no to extra plastic bags and straws.
- Scams to skip: “Mandatory desert fee,” aggressive shop commission escorts, or rushed “package deals” you didn’t want. A polite “no, thank you” + keep walking works.
- Footing: Cobbles + steps; good tread shoes make wandering happier.
Day Trips You’ll Love
- Bada Bagh: Royal cenotaphs in tidy rows—dreamy at sunset.
- Kuldhara Ghost Village: Abandoned Paliwal Brahmin settlement; crumbling homes and whispery lanes.
- Khaba Fort: Quiet, atmospheric ruins with desert panoramas.
- Local Craft Villages: Hand-loom and embroidery collectives—ask at your hotel for reputable cooperatives.
What Will It Cost? (Sample Budgets Per Person/Day)
| Style | Stay | Food | Activities | Transport (local) | Total (approx.) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Backpacker | Dorm/guesthouse | Simple thali + chai + snacks | Fort sights + sunset camel | Autos + shared taxis | $20–35 |
| Mid-Range | Haveli-style room | Rooftop meals + café treats | Fort + desert sunset/dinner | Autos + a taxi or two | $45–80 |
| Splurge | Boutique/luxury | Multi-course + special dinners | Fort + luxury camp night | Private car | $120–250+ |
(Rough guide; season and choices swing numbers.)
Desert-Proof Packing Checklist
Sun & Sand
- Wide-brim hat with a strap
- Polarized sunglasses + microfiber cloth
- High-SPF sunscreen + lip balm
- Light scarf/bandana or buff (dust protection)
Clothing
- Breathable long sleeves + airy pants/skirts
- A warm layer for desert nights (fleece or light puffer)
- Comfortable walking shoes with tread + sandals for camp
- Modest temple outfit (covered shoulders/knees)
Essentials
- Refillable water bottle (insulated if possible)
- Electrolyte packets
- Small first-aid kit (plasters, antihistamine, pain relief)
- Hand sanitizer & tissues
- Headlamp/flashlight (evening dunes & fort stairs)
- Power bank + universal adaptor
- Zip pouches for dust-proofing tech
Nice-to-Haves
- Lightweight tote for market hauls
- Travel laundry soap & line
- Earplugs (fort lanes can be lively)
- Journal/postcards for the fort cafés
Jaisalmer Trip FAQ: Your Top Questions Answered
How many days do I really need in Jaisalmer?
Two full days cover the highlights, but three to four days let you enjoy the fort slowly, add a desert experience, and take a day trip to Bada Bagh or Kuldhara without rushing.
Is it better to stay inside the fort or outside?
Inside is magical and walkable; outside offers more space and choice (often with stellar fort views). Either way, be water-wise and respectful—the fort is a living neighborhood.
What’s the best time of year to visit?
October–March is prime: pleasant days, cool nights, and clear sunsets. April–June is very hot, and July–September brings monsoon humidity and occasional showers.
Do I need to book a camel safari in advance?
Not necessarily. In high season, ask your hotel to arrange a reputable, animal-friendly operator a day ahead. If you want a luxury camp, book in advance—those fill up.
What should I wear inside the Jain Temples?
Dress modestly: shoulders and knees covered. Remove shoes and hats, move quietly, and ask before taking photos inside.
Is Jaisalmer safe for solo travelers?
Yes, with standard travel sense. Keep valuables close, say a firm “no, thank you” to persistent touts, and arrange desert trips through your hotel or trusted operators.
How much cash should I carry?
ATMs exist but can run dry. Carry enough small bills for autos, tips, and market buys; cards are accepted at many hotels/cafés, but bazaars often prefer cash.
Can I do the desert at sunset without a camel ride?
Absolutely. Choose a jeep transfer to the dunes—great for families, anyone with back/hip issues, or those who prefer not to ride animals.
Where are the best photo spots?
Fort ramparts at dawn, Jain Temples pre-noon, Gadisar Lake sunrise/sunset, Bada Bagh and Vyas Chhatri at golden hour, and any rooftop café with a fort view.
What local dishes should I try?
Ker sangri, dal baati churma, gatte ki sabzi, pyaaz kachori, mirchi vada, lassi, ghevar, and rabri. Carnivores: laal maas or safed maas are regional classics.
How do I bargain without feeling awkward?
Smile, ask for the best price, counter politely at around 60–70% of the first offer, and meet in the middle. If it’s not a fit, a kind “maybe later” is fine.
Is a day trip to Bada Bagh worth it?
Yes—especially at sunset. The cenotaphs glow golden, and the silhouettes are photographer catnip. Arrive early for the light and the quiet.
Jaisalmer is one of my favorite places in India, and I am so happy that you enjoyed it so much. Thanks for sharing your stories and photos!
I definitely need to go here! India is my favourite place I’ve ever visited, but I never went to Jaisalmer. I think it’s a must for my next trip though!
Wow! how bright beautiful and lively this city looks like. I am sure it must have been an amazing experience. Loved the clicks. Thanks for sharing!
Lovely and colorful!
It must have been so much fun exploring the city.
Good luck!
When I went to India, Oh, such a long time ago, I really enjoyed the Jaisalmer experience. I had already been camel trekking in Egypt, so wasn’t a complete novice (Ay!), but I had camel ice-cream too.
I really can’t describe it!
p.s. ‘Love the photography especially of you and Sam siiiiiiinging!
Oh my goodness! I did not know such a place existed! Jaisalmer would be a magnificient place to visit! The pictures you shared were so beautiful! I don’t blame you for spending 3 days there! Thanks so much for sharing this experience.
A great in-depth article on the Jaisalmer, Rajasthan tourism. Camel safari, that what I like most to visit during my trip to Jaisalmer. Probably, your blog made me visit Jaisalmer in coming days once the outbreak of coronavirus stopped.
Wonderful Pictures!! Such a great blog it is! You have written well informative with various beautiful lines. If you want to do Desert Camping in Jaisalmer, book your trip with The Golden Camp.
You did a fantastic job with Jaisalmer. Wow! This city appears to be bright, gorgeous, and vibrant. I’m sure that was an unforgettable experience. The clicks were fantastic. Thank you for providing this information. You’ve done a fantastic job on your own site, and I really enjoy it.
Thank you for sharing this blog. Jaisalmer would be a magnificent place to visit! The pictures you shared were so beautiful! I must have so much fun exploring here.